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Stabilitrack & traction control lights on

14K views 11 replies 6 participants last post by  xlrlist01  
#1 · (Edited)
My 2007 has been to two dealers once a month for 2 years trying to find out why my traction control and stabilitract lights keep coming on and the car also goes into the safe mode. If I keep driving it and stop the engine, the push button is dead when I try to restart it. A few seconds after I have finished pushing the button, the car starts by itself. They say that they are XLR trained and they are the only 2 dealers within 18 miles of my house. They have changed 6 computers and have gone over the wiring every time. When I leave the lights stay out for a few weeks and then come back.
This weeks codes are P0856, P1553, U0073, P0700 and P2544. Efcm and steering column lock show no communication. Anyone have any advice other than my wife's.
 
#2 ·
I have had similar experiences with my local caddy dealer but with a different problem. We have had a couple passing stabilitrack faults but none lately. I remember reading posts about steering column wiring abrasions. There was a service bulletin out relating to the wiring harness. Have you tried the forums search feature for stabilitrack?

Its painfully obvious that you just cant count on the local dealer these days. Thanks to all who contribute to this forum!

Dave
 
#3 ·
FWIW: This info is in the Technical >Suspension topic area.

2004 - 2008: Service Bulletin: Stabilitrak/Active Handling Light On,
Service Stabilitrak/Active Handling Message on DIC
Subject: Stabilitrak/Active Handling Light On, Service Stabilitrak/Active Handling Message on DIC, DTC C0710
Steering Wheel Position Sensor (SWPS) Signal Set (Install Clip in SWPS Connector) #06-02-35-002B - (10/19/2007)
Models:
2004-2008 Cadillac XLR
2005-2008 Chevrolet Corvette
with Steering Wheel - Tilt, Telescoping (RPO N37 or N38)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a Stabilitrak® or Active Handling System light being illuminated. Also, this warning light
will be accompanied by a SERVICE STABILITRAK or SERVICE ACTIVE HNDLG message on the DIC.
Diagnosis with a scan tool may reveal a DTC C0710.
Cause
The most likely cause of a DTC C0710 on a vehicle equipped with telescoping/tilt steering wheel is high resistance in SWPS
connector C202. Fretting terminal corrosion may be present in the SWPS connector due to the telescoping motion of the
steering column. When the steering column is telescoped in and out, the female terminals within the SWPS connector may
move on the male terminals of the SWPS. This movement between the terminals may cause a high resistance condition in
the SWPS connector.
Correction
Remove the driver's side closeout (insulator) panel.
Locate the SWPS connector that connects to the steering angle sensor, located on the lower center of the steering column.
Install the clip (1), P/N 19179794, into the connector. This clip will act as a terminal positive assurance (TPA) and prevent
any movement of the terminals.
General Motors bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, not a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform
those technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper
service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions and know-how to do a job
properly and safely. If a condition is described, do not assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will
have that condition. See a General Motors dealer servicing your brand of General Motors vehicle for information on whether
your vehicle may benefit from the information.



 
#4 ·
Stabiiltrak

I hit a pothole with my SRX at about 2 miles an hour and the brakes locked up. I was in front of a precision tune shop and they checked the computer and found no faults,but after running the test it cleared up. ?????????
 
#5 ·
I have a 2004 and don't show the first two codes. Google suggests P0856 is a traction control problem and 1553 is some kind of induction problem.

P0700 is the transmission requesting the SES lamp (MIL) being turned on. 2544 is a transmission torque converter problem. I'm not going to worry about the U code, they happen occasionally and there is weirdness re the steering column lock generally. Perhaps others can comment on that one.

So, what have we got here? Apart from the 1553, all of these relate to the transmission in some way.

To go further, can somebody upload a summary of the diagnostics for 0856 and 1553, see if anything suggests itself?

Have the technicians had a very close look for ground faults associated with the transmission? Have you had transmission defects? Poor shifting? Anything like that?

What condition is the battery in? Did you try a new one?
 
#8 · (Edited)
Another query.

You said that your XLR started later, can you expand on that? Do you mean that you didn't have your foot on the brake? If so, this is a serious safety related defect and should be escalated within Cadillac. The XLR Techs should have identified that though.

The lack of start (or immediate start) could also point to a transmission defect, if the computers have decided that it isn't in park or neutral, start is disabled.

If it took a moment or two for something to correct but you still had your foot on the brake pedal then that might be what is going on.

Another pointer perhaps to a possible wiring defect to do with the transmission.

BTW, what does efcm stand for? Do you mean ebcm? Lack of communication with the ebcm is a major defect and will cause all sorts of problems.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Those are the codes on the tech 2. The trans was rebuilt 3 times 2 years ago and did not get fixed until they replaced the computer in it. When all of the messages come up on the dash and I keep driving for a while and stop, then when I try to restart it to try to clear the messages with my foot on the brake and push the button, it is dead. If I wait a minute and try again, it starts right up. Sometimes when I am driving and the messages are on the dash, all of my gauge needles die. They have added the clip on the steering wheel sensor.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Those are the codes on the tack 2. The trans was rebuilt 3 times 2 years ago and did not get fixed until they replaced the computer in it. When all of the messages come up on the dash and I keep driving for a while and stop, then when I try to restart it to try to clear the messages with my foot on the brake and push the button, it is dead. If I wait a minute and try again, it starts right up. Sometimes when I am driving and the messages are on the dash, all of my gauge needles die. They have added the clip on the steering wheel sensor.
Yeah, codes are read using a Tech-2. This is the official GM electronic tool.

You didn't answer my query re 'ebcm'. This is the Electronic Brake Control Module, the anti-lock braking piece. It is an important component in your XLR and a lack of communication to it is a real problem. You will get all sorts of errors reported if communications to the EBCM are defective.

You didn't mention battery status and recent history. Has it been discharged? Is it the correct Delco unit?

A hunt around for a ground in common use between any of the EBCM, Transmission and Instruments is an avenue. If I get time I'll study the wiring diagrams.
 
#11 ·
I do not have the results in front of me, but you are probably right it is ebcm. The battery is about 2 years old and was installed by the cadillac dealer. The battery was run down one time by the dealer, while working on the radio. On the tech 2 the battery usually shows about 13.75V, I did once see 12.1V. I keep wondering about the transmission suggestion. They rebuilt it 3 times to solve a shifting problem. This problem started right after that.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Exhausting the high tech Delco battery even once could ruin it. It depends how long it was discharged. Do you have access to a data logger? Can you track battery voltage over a period of 4-5 days (XLR not used)? The voltage should stay well above 12v and should really stay above 12.5v. The Delco runs about 0.25v higher than older technology batteries and this can cause battery testers to conclude that the battery is good even when it isn't. 13.75v is spot on, if it is holding that then that sounds like it is in good shape. This assumes that the engine isn't running. Measuring voltage with the engine running is almost meaningless, the XLR uses a sophisticated charge profile that takes into account battery condition and assumed likely load conditions, the charge algorithm does not charge the battery so heavily if it has decided that the demand is likely to be lower. This saves gas, but makes deducing useful fact by testing the voltage difficult.

The 13.75v is 0.25v higher than older technology batteries, that will drop fairly quickly to 12.75v as the plateau voltage. 12.5v is the start of the downward curve.

While the Tech-2 will report a voltage, you need to use an accurate volt meter connected at the battery's own terminals.

I wonder if one of the big connector blocks has a poor connection. Pulling a few apart and cleaning them with contact cleaner might be a good thing. Don't use WD-40, use proper contact cleaner. I'm not sure what is in the dash area, but having a look around wouldn't do any harm. Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes before pulling any connectors apart.

A problem that started after the transmission re-build does suggest a close look at the connectors related to it might repay the effort of looking. The number of times problems in modern automotive design are down to connectors is substantial. Contact cleaner is the way ahead!