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FWIW: I mentioned in one of my earlier postings that my dealer had to drop the rear bumper and break in the latch area from under the car.
I'm not sure how they did this. I pulled the bumper cover loose to the point that I needed to remove the pins under the edge of the trunk. There doesn't seem to be any way to do this without ripping the bumper off. In which case my previous idea of cutting the striker with a saw is still the least damaging I've come up with. Back to the bumper removal, I haven't tried removing the foam backing yet to see if the underside of the pins are visible. That is my next step since the bumper is still hanging.

I'm beginning to wonder if the least ghastly option is to force the deck lid and latch apart with wedges.
To me this is the obvious place to go if a destructive method is required. I wouldn't force it appart to point that that something breaks because you just don't know what that will be. I want to control the damage in this case. I would just cut the striker loop causing damage only to the striker and possibly the sill plate. Total cost to repair would $80 + the latch if it needs replaced.
 

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Jellyhead:

It's not just the flexible bumper it's the metal framework that the flexible bumper is attached to that is removed.

That exposes the underside of the trunk and the back side of the trunk lock assembly.

As you mentioned, there is a protective cover that needs to be broken into to expose the back side of the lock assembly.

in the end it's your decision as to how you gain entry. But I am hoping that it will occur with little or damage.



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If a picture of and XLR with the rear bumper remove would help you. Let me know, As my 2004 XLR is in the body shop with all the right side panels and rear bumper off. What appears to be little damage under the right side door. Turns out to be a major job and major exspense. Also getting body parts is close to inpossable
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Updated: 2006 XLR

To All,

It's been awhile since I had a chance to post on the Forum. Here's what has transpired to date.

I took the Car back from the dealership since they had no solution; and tried quite items suggested in the forum. They removed the middle console to view with a scope, but could not do more unless I authorized them to go into the car.

At that point, I took the Car back, and contacted GM Customer Service line. After a week of hit and miss; I spoke with the Service representative and told me that they are still working on the solution. I indicated to them that I was very frustrated since this type of Scenario should not happen, and I mentioned to him that this may be a defect.

Meanwhile, I received a call from the Dealership later that day indicated the Cadillac Service authorized them to do what ever is needed to fix the Car (Their Cost).

I will need to go back to speak with the Service Representative and the Dealeship to find out how they are going to proceed.

From my initial conversation with them, they discussed removing the Seats to gain access to the rear trunk. Not sure that else needs to be done, so I will need to discuss this with them.

The Service manager wanted to make sure that I was aware the GM was going to fix this under Warranty.

More to follow.

XLR-SAM
 

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Removing the seats and rear waterfall (the plastic rear wall piece behind them) won't offer them much in the way of access. The seats sit much lower than the trunk floor, and there are mechanical linkages and such that cover the majority of the space above the trunk floor behind the seats.

To remove the bumper, the rear tail lights need to come out; this is done by opening the rear decklid -a no-go situtation unless you don't mind buying a new bumper.

CC :banghead
 

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Regarding hard-to-find body panels, try this company: http://www.smcperformance.com/

He snapped up a lot of the XLR parts excess inventory when the Bowling Green XLR line closed. He's more of a Corvette guy, and isn't overly familiar with XLR-speak, but he might be able to run a part number and find something that you that otherwise might not be able to locate easily.

By the way, if you haven't been to the gmpartsdirect website lately, check it out. They changed the parts locator format. It's much improved.

CC :thumbs
 

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I just went to the garage, inserted my key and the decklid lifted using the motor.
It has never done this before!

Here's what's weird: I had never sucessfully raised the rear decklid manually. While I was at my dealership last year, the tech inserted the key and raised the rear decklid by pushing upwards on the CHML. We lowered the decklid and then using the tried and true "Monkey see, monkey do" training technique, I repeated the feat. Never did the pump energize.

The other night with the rear decklid raised, I opened the latch with the key and closed it with a plastic tool, cycling it a dozen times. No reaction from the pump at any time.

CC :)
I've been thinking about this and have a suggestion or observation.

I suspect that either the BCM or FTM shuts the pump down for a period if it detects a fault, this behavior isn't in the w/s manual (or if it is, I haven't found it). Thus if the lid stays down because of a fault condition, using the key within the next ?hour? doesn't fire up the pump, but if no new faults have been detected, the FTM reactivates the pump after a suitable time out.

Also, one of the fault codes can never set, as it uses the signal it is using to determine state to determine if an incorrect state has occurred. This, of course, can't happen, the signals need to be independent, not the exact same one! This is another reason why I have commented that what has been implemented is different from what is in the manual, the control parameters are confused!

I like to raise the lid to keep the trunk dry; as this would discharge the battery (lights on), I close the latch (carefully! using a small pusher). The lights go out, and the "lid close" command is disabled. When I am ready, I release the latch with the fob, this re-enables the "close" button and all is well.

WARNING, to anyone closing the latch by hand, as it is pushed closed, it will suddenly take over and the motor inside clamps the latch shut. DO NOT HAVE YOUR FINGERS NEAR THIS ACTION!
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Update:

I spoke with the Dealership and clarified if the fix was under Warrenty; he said no.

He indicated the GM/Caddilac Service was picking up the tab to fix the Car. Not sure if the reason they are picking this up was because the dealership broke the manual lock entry from the outside. If there was a way to open it up, it was gone when they broke it.

I did make stink to Customer Service that this may be a design flaw in the Vehicle since this type of situation should not happen.

The next day; I received Authorization to fix the Car. I'll tell you one thing; I was not going to let it go until a received an adequate answer from GM/Caddillac service. I was documenting all my information to take to the News media to resolve (if needed).

If this is a design flaw in the Vehicle; there would be some type of recall to fix or reinforce this type of mechanism. I'm still want to persue this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Received a Call from the Dealership, and they indicated that they were able to open the trunk. They indicated that it was a faulty latch; I will be going to the dealership to see the exact problem, take photos of what was done. more to follow
 

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Received a Call from the Dealership, and they indicated that they were able to open the trunk. They indicated that it was a faulty latch; I will be going to the dealership to see the exact problem, take photos of what was done. more to follow
Yeah we all would lke to know specifically what was/is wrong with the latch.

Also, how exactly did they fnallly get into the car?

What did they damage and have to replace??

Congratulations on finally attaining a resolution.

We're going to need thisinfor for our knowledge data base.

Regards

Jerry


Jellyhead, I hope yours is next.



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Customer service called today, he said this is a known problem. Sounds like they're going to take care of mine as well. I'm supposed to hear back from them Tuesday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Just an update:

I went to the Dealership on Friday and they showed me the Latch
that was bad.

I took a few pictures, but most of the damage related to removing the latch. They had to remove the Rear seats and break the latch from the inside.

Damage to the car was very minimal; mostly the upper carpat on the trunk and the plastic pannel with the Cadillac emblem.

As soon as I get the file invoice from the dealership, I will post this on the forum. The service Manager indicated that he would detail everyting that they had to do to solve the problem.

I hope this will help other users with this type of problem.

XLR-SAM :cheers
 

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I don't think mine is going to get covered. Cadillac said they would wait to see what the service department determined the cause of the failure was before they agreed to pay for it. I'm pretty sure my local GM service center will be of no help. They told me they didn't think that Cadillac would pay for it because the car has too many miles (48,000). They also said Cadillac wouldn't pay for any parts they may damage getting it open. They already broke one part just looking at it. Sounds like even if it it's a faulty latch, This service center isn't going to help me get Cadillac to pay for it.

I don't really want to take the car to the next nearest service center 1-2 hrs away in the hopes that Cadillac will pay for it. I was skeptical that they would when not under warranty anyway.
 

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I don't think mine is going to get covered. Cadillac said they would wait to see what the service department determined the cause of the failure was before they agreed to pay for it. I'm pretty sure my local GM service center will be of no help. They told me they didn't think that Cadillac would pay for it because the car has too many miles (48,000). They also said Cadillac wouldn't pay for any parts they may damage getting it open. They already broke one part just looking at it. Sounds like even if it it's a faulty latch, This service center isn't going to help me get Cadillac to pay for it.

I don't really want to take the car to the next nearest service center 1-2 hrs away in the hopes that Cadillac will pay for it. I was skeptical that they would when not under warranty anyway.
We need to document each of your latch failures in detail here along with the resolution.

That way you can use the information to convince Cadillac Customer Service to do the right thing.

Also, maybe Sam can refer your technicians to the ones who fixed his problem so they can gain additional insight in to the correct repair procedure.

We are here to support you in any way we can.



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Just an update:

I went to the Dealership on Friday and they showed me the Latch
that was bad.

I took a few pictures, but most of the damage related to removing the latch. They had to remove the Rear seats and break the latch from the inside.

Damage to the car was very minimal; mostly the upper carpat on the trunk and the plastic pannel with the Cadillac emblem.

As soon as I get the file invoice from the dealership, I will post this on the forum. The service Manager indicated that he would detail everyting that they had to do to solve the problem.

I hope this will help other users with this type of problem.

XLR-SAM :cheers
The upper carpet is presumably the covering on the underside of the deck lid and the emblem is on the sill plate, that mostly plastic cover that spans across the trunk opening?

It sounds like this is is best option, seats out, waterfall out, force the decklid up off the latch (and sill plate gets smashed), ensuring the force is applied as close to the latch pull down as possible.

Of course, if the roof is stowed in the trunk, this will not be possible!
 
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