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I had thought about using some sort of wedge or air bags that a locksmith would use. I will definitely attempt this before cutting anything. I don't really think it's going to work though because it seems to be solidly latched. When lifting, there is no indication that it isn't fully latched. It doesn't seem to be close to openning.
 

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Many owners describe how heavy the rear decklid is when attempting to lift it manually. It isn't. With the pump off, you're fighting hydraulics when trying to lift the rear decklid.

Tapping in a plastic wedge (used when dropping trees) or rocking a thin crowbar will quickly allow you to know how (locked) the latch is against the loop.

I say this because when I manually sprung my open latch while taking pictures for you the other night, the rear decklid hung up twice on the latch while being commanded to open and popped up a half inch under tension. Made me more than a little nervous, to say the least. The next day, I tried to retract the roof and it would not complete the cycle. Turns out I had a DTC (fault code) in the Folding Top controller, caused by the latch status. I cleared it and the top operated nominally.

CC
 

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will be trying the wedges as soon as I get some. I do know a locksmith that would let me borrow their wedges too.

When I initially opened the trunk, I was able to turn the key with one hand and open the trunk with the other. While being heavy, it was fairly easy to open. As it is now, I can yank up on it and can feel a definite stop. By the way, I'm on the stronger side of average, Usually when I put everything I have into something it moves...at least a little. Hopefully the wedges will do the trick. Will post back with the results.
 

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I'm in the process of reviewing the data Jerry sent me and will post back to him shortly. He's right, the non-destructive (nuclear) option is the last resort.

CC :seeya
 

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will be trying the wedges as soon as I get some. I do know a locksmith that would let me borrow their wedges too.

When I initially opened the trunk, I was able to turn the key with one hand and open the trunk with the other. While being heavy, it was fairly easy to open. As it is now, I can yank up on it and can feel a definite stop. By the way, I'm on the stronger side of average, Usually when I put everything I have into something it moves...at least a little. Hopefully the wedges will do the trick. Will post back with the results.
Using the key activates the pump, you don't (or shouldn't) need to lift the rear deck lid by hand.

I would say that BY FAR the best option is to see if you can get the rear bumper off. IF you can, it is easy, undo the three bolts holding the metal bracket on (you might have to cut or drill the heads off/out to make them shorter) and you are in. The bracket comes with the latch, the latch runs around $250 and obviously you need a new one. Be very careful though that you are very careful of the wiring loom. I would guess you will have to get the sill protector off too somehow as that will stop the latch from coming free. It is held in by four plastic rivet things, two each side, you will see those from between the seats, and two metal screws. Those are under plastic caps and are covered by the deck lid, however with force I think they will pull out, or just smash the sill off them. The design is not strong in that area of the sill anyway.

The key release cable has some slack, the emergency one stays with the latch, the key one needs to be disconnected but if you can get to the point that the lid lifts a bit, you should find a way of slipping that off without damaging the cable. It does not require any tools to disconnect. The new latch includes a new emergency release cable but not the key cable.

I WOULD NOT cut a hole in the trunk floor, that I can't see what that will gain you besides a big and very expensive mess. The sill plate covers all the hydraulic lines for the roof on the rhs of your XLR, a sensor or two and other wiring loom stuff. Avoid!
 

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I sent CC some info I got from a dealer friend. If you aren't in. Big hurry, wait until he reviews it to see if there are other valid options.
My dealer said he dropped the rear bumper and went into the lock assembly from under the rear of the car.
I just don't want you to risk damage to your car if there is another way.
I'm not going to rush into anything. I did try the airbag option but it didn't work. I don't think I could get any more pressure with a pry bar or wedge than the airbags. I will wait to hear about any other possibilities. If it turns out that there is no other option, I'll order a new striker plate and go that route as soon as it arrives. By the way, the dealer said the striker plate and sill plate were not available but they seem to be available from GMPartsDirect.com


Using the key activates the pump, you don't (or shouldn't) need to lift the rear deck lid by hand.
Initially the battery was dead and after that I was disconnecting it so the motors wouldn't be straining to open the trunk.
 

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Tell me you had the bumper key turned 90 degrees while you applied the air bag. If you didn't, repeat with the key turned.

To correct some erroneous info, the key in the rear bumper does not activate the hydraulic pump. It is designed for emergency use when the battery is dead and there is no power for the pump. It is a mechanical latch release. You supply the cardio-pulmonary power to lift the rear decklid.


There's been some discussion about gaining access to the latch bracket with the bumper removed. The bumper is removed with the rear decklid opened (the first step in the removal procedure.) In this state the bumper cannot be properly removed without cutting a section of it away. Loosening the latch (if the loop is jammed) may not work anyway, but a bumper (facia) is cheaper than a rear decklid, so it's worth a shot if you get to that point.

Jerry passed this GM troubleshooting info for me to review last night. My comments are noted. I have removed inaccessible GM links for brevity.

Trunk Release Inoperative

Diagnostic Fault Information



Always perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle prior to using this diagnostic procedure.

CC Comment: Has a Scan with a Tech 2 been performed?

Circuit/System Description



The folding top module controls the opening and closing of the rear compartment lid based on an input from either the interior lid release switch, exterior lid release switch, or the lid close switch.

The interior rear compartment lid release switch is located in the passenger compartment, near the driver left knee bolster. This switches function is to open the rear compartment lid. With the switch pressed, the trunk release switch supply voltage circuit from the body control module (BCM) is grounded. Upon seeing this input, the BCM will request the folding top module begin raising or lowering the rear compartment lid.

The exterior rear compartment lid release switch is located at the rear of the vehicle, under the upper lip of the license plate pocket. This switches function is only to open the rear compartment lid. With the switch pressed, the trunk release switch signal circuit from the remote control door lock receiver (RCDLR) is grounded. Upon seeing this input, the RCDLR will request the folding top module begin raising or lowering the rear compartment lid.

The rear compartment lid close switch is located on the underside of the rear compartment lid; it is only accessible when the lid is open. This switches function is only to close the lid. With the switch pressed, voltage supplied from the AC LATCH PK BRK B fuse is applied to the rear compartment lid release close switch signal circuit at the folding top module. Upon seeing this input, the folding top module will begin raising or lowering the rear compartment lid.

Diagnostic Aids



CC Comment: This is why a Tech 2 diagnostic needs to be performed. The status of the front tonneau cannot be ascertained otherwise. Although it is within the realm of possibility that this component is misaligned, it is more likely the problem is being caused by a jammed latch. The problem did not appear until the trunk was open and the latch was manually opened, inadvertently. My rear deck lid stuck in a similar fashion when I performed testing by manually opening the latch, closing the rear deck lid with the rear-mounted Close switch and tried to open it electrically.

If the front tonneau is not in its fully closed position, the rear compartment lid will not release. A driver information center (DIC) message will not be displayed to notify the driver should this occur. Air turbulence with the vehicle top lowered or jarring of the vehicle while driving may cause the front tonneau to lift, thus creating an inoperative rear compartment lid. In this instance, the front tonneau must be resecured prior to attempting a lid release function.

The rear compartment lid release will be inoperative if the vehicle is placed in valet mode. This is by design and does not designate a malfunction. Lid release functions will resume once the vehicle is taken out of valet mode.


Circuit/System Verification

CC Comment: N/A. These steps cannot be accomplished with this system fault as described in previous posts.

1. With the rear compartment lid open, press the rear compartment lid close switch. The rear compartment lid should close.

2. Press the exterior rear compartment lid release switch. The rear compartment lid should raise.

3. Press the interior rear compartment lid release switch. The rear compartment lid should close.


Circuit/System Testing

CC Comment: These following steps have a narrow margin of success/applicability. The Interior Switch Rear Compartment lid release switch can be easily disconnected and tested. It and the BCM are not prime suspects, but are worth testing as candidates to eliminate. These diagnostic procedures assume an electrical (not mechanical) fault as the root cause. which by the symptoms presented, is the most likely failure cause.

It would be prudent to listen to the rear latch when depressing this (and the rear deck lid release switch) to ascertain if the latch is being electrically commanded to release in order to eliminate components in the troubleshooting path. The Exterior Trunk Release switch connector cannot be accessed with the rear deck lid shut. The Lid Close switch cannot be accessed with the rear deck lid shut.


Trunk Release Inoperative from Interior Switch

1. Ignition ON, disconnect the interior rear compartment lid release switch connector.

2. Verify that the rear compartment lid releases with a 3-amp fused jumper connected between the trunk release switch supply voltage circuit and ground.

If the rear compartment lid does not release, test for an open or high resistance in the trunk release switch supply voltage circuit. If the circuit/connectors test normal, replace the BCM.

3. Verify that the rear compartment lid releases with a 3-amp fused jumper connected between the trunk release switch supply voltage circuit and the switch ground.

If the rear compartment lid does not release, test for an open or high resistance in the rear compartment lid release switch ground circuit.

4. Test or replace the interior rear compartment lid release switch.

Trunk Release Inoperative from Exterior Switch

1. Ignition ON, disconnect the exterior rear compartment lid release switch connector.

2. Verify that the rear compartment lid releases with a 3-amp fused jumper connected between the trunk release switch signal and a good ground.

If the rear compartment lid does not release, test for an open or high resistance in the trunk release switch signal circuit. If the circuit/connections test normal, replace the RCDLR.

3. Verify that the rear compartment lid releases with a 3-amp jumper connected between the truck release switch signal circuit and the switch ground.

If the rear compartment lid does not release, test for an open or high resistance in the rear compartment lid release switch ground circuit.

4. Test or replace the exterior rear compartment lid release switch


Trunk Release Inoperative from Lid Close Switch

1. Ignition ON, open the rear compartment lid and disconnect the rear compartment lid close switch connector.

2. Verify that a test lamp illuminates when connected between the battery supply voltage circuit of the rear compartment lid close switch and ground.

If the test lamp does not illuminate, repair the open or high resistance in the battery supply voltage circuit. If the circuit fuse is blown, inspect the circuit for a short to ground.

3. Verify that the rear compartment lid closes with a 3-amp jumper connected between the battery supply voltage circuit and the lid close switch signal circuit.

If the rear compartment lid does not begin closing, test for an open or high resistance in the lid close switch signal circuit. If the circuit/connections test normal, replace the folding top module.

4. Test or replace the rear compartment lid close switch.

Jerry elaborated some of his thoughts:

1) Try the decklid release switch over the license plate.
2) Ensure the valet switch is in the proper position.
3) Check applicanle fuses.
4) Have the car scanned with a Tech 2.

CC :cheers
 

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Tell me you had the bumper key turned 90 degrees while you applied the air bag. If you didn't, repeat with the key turned.

To correct some erroneous info, the key in the rear bumper does not activate the hydraulic pump. It is designed for emergency use when the battery is dead and there is no power for the pump. It is a mechanical latch release. You supply the cardio-pulmonary power to lift the rear decklid.



CC :cheers
Hi CC. On my 2004, the key does activate the pump. Works every time. I know all this stuff about the latch because the latch failed (electrically) and so I went through a chunk of time using the key.

Now maybe in different years it does different things, but as soon as the latch sends the "I'm open" signal, the pump runs and raises the deck lid.

The odd thing is that (again, on my 2004) if the deck lid is released electrically, the pump runs even if the latch does not release. I got very good at stopping the pump by pressing the fob button again straight away if the latch failed.

All solved with a new latch. Still raises up just fine using the key. All checked with a Tech-2 too. Of course, if the battery is dead, then yes, you have to lift the lid slowly by hand, fighting the hydraulics.

Also, (for the 2004), those diagnostics are wrong (see eg step 2). The latch is released by a momentary ground sent by the BCM. DO NOT used a fused jumper to test the the release circuit, you risk blowing the BCM.

What happens is batt is provided continuously to the latch. This signal is sent to the BCM continuously. The BCM grounds the signal for a brief moment and that causes the latch to release. I built a dedicated test circuit to sort all this stuff out and prove exactly what is going on. As the same latch seems to be used for all XLRs (it has been updated several times!) I am guessing that what is in my 2004 applies to all XLRs. The latest latch needs very minor metalwork modifications work to fit a 2004.

The other snag with the latch is it is contained in a substantial metal jacket, making smashing the latch out of the car infeasible, otherwise I would suggest it. The loop off the lid is buried deep inside the latch when it is closed, so cutting that off looks to be virtually impossible, again why I haven't suggested it. The latch has a positive pull down action, meaning that brute force is most likely to ruin the lid rather than than the latch, again why I am not recommending it.

For background, reading the various pages of the 2004 w/s manual, somebody tried to put in a clever clever control mechanism and at a very late stage this was scrapped and a standard bit of GM trunk release technology substituted. As a result the wiring diagram has errors, incorrectly labelled wires, components and signals. I have checked with my dealership and they have the same erroneous diagrams as are in the 2004 manual. What is the the w/s manual makes no sense at all. What has been implemented works fine (well, more or less) and is closer to the way GM have been implementing trunk release signals for decades.
 

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I took another look at the exploded view here




it does appear that the latch plate bolts are rear facing with nuts on the back side. I will take a look at this but if the bumper cover cannot be removed without the trunk open than this is not going to be possible. It also seems that the sill plate with surely need to be ripped loose since there is no real way to remove all of the screws.
 

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I took another look at the exploded view here




it does appear that the latch plate bolts are rear facing with nuts on the back side. I will take a look at this but if the bumper cover cannot be removed without the trunk open than this is not going to be possible. It also seems that the sill plate with surely need to be ripped loose since there is no real way to remove all of the screws.
Yes, item 20 comes with a new latch. Those rear facing three are the ones I described as being drilled out. Also, as you have observed, the sill plate covers the latch and will have to be smashed off, but IF you can get the four plastic rivets out (from inside) then it will break easily just pry it up at each end, the two metal screws that hold it down are small and go into alloy metal plates, easily replaced if damaged. The sill will break first though I think. However, don't damage the wiring loom. It unplugs easily from on top, some how you have to press down the release catch that will be covered by the deck lid. A trivial problem compared to getting to that point.

Even with those drilled out though, I think you will have to apply a lot of pressure to the deck lid pressing forwards to get the plate to clear away from the body.

What isn't obvious in that picture is that the latch (13) is encased in a steel jacket.
 

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Amazing! I learned something new today, thank-you for educating me. I just went to the garage, inserted my key and the decklid lifted using the motor.
It has never done this before!

Here's what's weird: I had never sucessfully raised the rear decklid manually. While I was at my dealership last year, the tech inserted the key and raised the rear decklid by pushing upwards on the CHML. We lowered the decklid and then using the tried and true "Monkey see, monkey do" training technique, I repeated the feat. Never did the pump energize.

The other night with the rear decklid raised, I opened the latch with the key and closed it with a plastic tool, cycling it a dozen times. No reaction from the pump at any time.

You're right -thanks for correcting me! I apologize for any confusion.

CC :)
 

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Like many others, I have been following this thread like a soap opera - waiting to see what comes up next.

Without going back over the entire thread in detail I am wondering if anyone has been in touch with GM tech directly. I know in the early days of this forum we had a lot of tech experts from Bowling Green as well as Cadillac. At the minimum they should be able to diagnose what could cause this type of problem, and maybe it is something that they have seen before and would have some additional input on solving the problem.

Another thought is the 'Ask a Cadillac Tech' - I belive the site is justask.com, but there may be others. I believe they have advertised on this forum in the past. I have had good luck with simple problems on other cars when I did not have a manual and needed help with a particular problem.

Good luck with all this and I will be very interested in finding out exactly what caused this problem.:seeya
 

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As you can see from the view




The rear bumper cover has 5 retainers along the top edge under the trunk. I can probably get to the outer 2. Does anyone have any ideas how to get to the 3 inner pins? I suppose if there was no other way, one could just cut the bumper out of the way. You can find them used on ebay for about $150. I'm still exploring non damaging alternatives first. Cutting the striker still seems to be the least costly place to start at this point. I had hoped the bumper cover would be easier to remove than I had expected but it's not.
 

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FWIW: I tried to get to the techs and executives at Cadillac and the Xlr team we all knew but they seem to all be gone.

I also went through a dealer and was only able to turn up the info CC posted.

What I like about our Forum is that we all come together ro try and help each other when problems arise.

I am convinced that this will become increasingly important over the years as will the knowledge data base we have as Cadillac moves forward with newer technology and the experts disappear.

That's why it is veryy important that we get updatedfeedback on issues that have been resolved either by us or through the dealer. You just never know who will need the information next.

This trunk issue is one of rhe most difficult issues we have run into. I hope we facilitate a resolution soon.

Regards

Jerry and CC



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Amazing! I learned something new today, thank-you for educating me. I just went to the garage, inserted my key and the decklid lifted using the motor.
It has never done this before!

Here's what's weird: I had never sucessfully raised the rear decklid manually. While I was at my dealership last year, the tech inserted the key and raised the rear decklid by pushing upwards on the CHML. We lowered the decklid and then using the tried and true "Monkey see, monkey do" training technique, I repeated the feat. Never did the pump energize.

The other night with the rear decklid raised, I opened the latch with the key and closed it with a plastic tool, cycling it a dozen times. No reaction from the pump at any time.

You're right -thanks for correcting me! I apologize for any confusion.

CC :)
Hey CC, I respect your views and experience enormously. Apology accepted!
 

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Like many others, I have been following this thread like a soap opera - waiting to see what comes up next.

Without going back over the entire thread in detail I am wondering if anyone has been in touch with GM tech directly. I know in the early days of this forum we had a lot of tech experts from Bowling Green as well as Cadillac. At the minimum they should be able to diagnose what could cause this type of problem, and maybe it is something that they have seen before and would have some additional input on solving the problem.

Another thought is the 'Ask a Cadillac Tech' - I belive the site is justask.com, but there may be others. I believe they have advertised on this forum in the past. I have had good luck with simple problems on other cars when I did not have a manual and needed help with a particular problem.

Good luck with all this and I will be very interested in finding out exactly what caused this problem.:seeya
I'm beginning to wonder if the least ghastly option is to force the deck lid and latch apart with wedges. I'll go and have a look at my XLR and see if I can guess what will break first. Maybe the hook from the deck lid will just pull out of the lid and then have to be repaired.

Has anyone experience of a rear ended XLR? If so, did the latch part company from the deck lid?

Maybe having reached this decision (if you do), the answer is to keep holding the key in the open position and then drive in wedges, to see if the increased pressure pops the latch when it is being held in the open position.
 

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I'm beginning to wonder if the least ghastly option is to force the deck lid and latch apart with wedges. I'll go and have a look at my XLR and see if I can guess what will break first. Maybe the hook from the deck lid will just pull out of the lid and then have to be repaired.

Has anyone experience of a rear ended XLR? If so, did the latch part company from the deck lid?

Maybe having reached this decision (if you do), the answer is to keep holding the key in the open position and then drive in wedges, to see if the increased pressure pops the latch when it is being held in the open position.
Well, I've been and had a look at my XLR and you need to do the same (look at another XLR that is) before doing anything drastic. The hook in the deck lid is fastened to a metal plate. Just maybe if you can get a wedge on each side of the hook, but otherwise as close together as possible, it would force the hook out of the plate. It won't be pretty. Discuss with a body shop!
 

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FWIW: I mentioned in one of my earlier postings that my dealer had to drop the rear bumper and break in the latch area from under the car.

He is of the opinion that IF you decide that is the only option left that it is the quickest and and least expensive way in.
Can you provide more exact detail on this, because I can't see how coming in from under the car is going to help. Rear bumper off, yes; but making a hole through the floor of the car? I don't see exactly where the hole would be made and what it would enable. As I mentioned before, the hydraulic lines run through there too, so I would be very cautious about such a move.
 
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