Tire Rotation

9135 Views 20 Replies 10 Participants Last post by motorboat, Apr 8, 2006

Caly

Discussion Starter · Jan 22, 2005

If one were to rotate his own tires, do the pressure monitors need any attention?

(Hey Bowtie... it's Deluxe if you're still out there).

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

mswaim

· #2 · Jan 22, 2005

Please keep in mind I've never tried this, I ran across these instructions some time back and saved them for when/if I ever needed them.

You need either the GM magnet tool J41760 or a fairly strong horseshoe style magnet since most shop-style nuts/bolts pick-up magents will not be strong enough.

1) Key in ignition in on position
2) Press lock and un-lock buttons on the fob till the horn chirps
3) Starting with Left Front tire hold magnet against valve stem until horn chirps then work your way around vehicle clockwise. After the Left rear tire horn will chirp twice to indicate that programming is complete.

Caly

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jan 23, 2005

mswaim said:
Please keep in mind I've never tried this, I ran across these instructions some time back and saved them for when/if I ever needed them.

You need either the GM magnet tool J41760 or a fairly strong horseshoe style magnet since most shop-style nuts/bolts pick-up magents will not be strong enough.

1) Key in ignition in on position
2) Press lock and un-lock buttons on the fob till the horn chirps
3) Starting with Left Front tire hold magnet against valve stem until horn chirps then work your way around vehicle clockwise. After the Left rear tire horn will chirp twice to indicate that programming is complete.

uuummm... key in ignition? Same as accessory on I assume?

Thanks. It'll probably be a few weeks before I get around to this and I will report the results when finished.

jjd454

· #4 · Feb 21, 2005

I was reading in the owner's manual and noticed it said, "not" to rotate the tires.

Caly

Discussion Starter · #5 · Feb 21, 2005

jjd454 said:
I was reading in the owner's manual and noticed it said, "not" to rotate the tires.

Not exactly:

Tire Inspection and Rotation (page 6-57)

Your vehicle's tires should be inspected regularly for wear. Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. ...

In my own experience, once you notice any unusual wear, you have already significantly shortened the life of your tires.

There is also a tire rotation diagram in the manual.

I take the wheels off every couple of months anyway to clean the insides and the wheel wells. Keeps it looking new (it's a daily driver) and I always know the condition of my rubber. Not a big deal to rotate while I'm at it.

Now a technical question for the guys with a shop manual: I saw references to resetting the pressure sensors that went clockwise from the front driver's AND anti-clockwise. I finially concluded it may not make any difference if the reciever for the sensors is at each corner rather than central. Is that true or have I confused my readings?

BUDSVET

· #6 · Feb 21, 2005

I have rotated my tires approximatly every five k and replaced them at 18k, now have 12k on the second set, never bothered about the tire pressure being updated because I check the pressure as I am driving down the road and if one indicates it's low, find and inflate, of course when you get an oil changes at XLR service station they will gladly set the tires to match the front and rear. but if they don't match, no big thing. :jester :flag

alk3997

· #7 · Apr 4, 2006

Caly said:
Not exactly:
In my own experience, once you notice any unusual wear, you have already significantly shortened the life of your tires.

There is also a tire rotation diagram in the manual.
...

I just had a pretty harsh lesson on the XLR tire wear. I didn't rotate them for 10K and notice "unusual" wear on just the rear tires. The wear was even but unexpectedly large for 10K of use. The front tires are wearing very well.

It turns out that, according to Discount Tires, if the tires are not rotated the rears will wear faster than the fronts since the XLR is has rear wheel drive. They recommend rotating every 4K to 6K miles. The first set of tires were rotated and we got 19K on those.

So, two more tires have been ordered (the same Michelin models). A local Cadillac dealer (not the one I use) said that not rotating is recommended and that the customer just has to buy more tires. That wasn't exactly customer friendly advice.

I'm curious if anyone thinks I should contact either Michelin or Cadillac about the rears wearing-out in 10K?

Andy

Caly

Discussion Starter · #8 · Apr 5, 2006

alk3997 said:
I just had a pretty harsh lesson on the XLR tire wear. I didn't rotate them for 10K and notice "unusual" wear on just the rear tires. The wear was even but unexpectedly large for 10K of use. The front tires are wearing very well.

It turns out that, according to Discount Tires, if the tires are not rotated the rears will wear faster than the fronts since the XLR is has rear wheel drive. They recommend rotating every 4K to 6K miles. The first set of tires were rotated and we got 19K on those.

So, two more tires have been ordered (the same Michelin models). A local Cadillac dealer (not the one I use) said that not rotating is recommended and that the customer just has to buy more tires. That wasn't exactly customer friendly advice.

I'm curious if anyone thinks I should contact either Michelin or Cadillac about the rears wearing-out in 10K?

Andy

Spend $85 and get a good 4 wheel alignment. The factory does not do all that great of a job and I think it is routine to find the rear alignment out pretty much and the front OK.

gb10998

· #9 · Apr 5, 2006

Just had an experience that explained all this.
Had the tires rotated at the last oil change. This week I got a flat, and the DIC said I had a flat RF, when I actually had a flat LR. Seems the dealer neglected to reset the tire pressure sensors.
Took it in to Putnam Tire where they had the correct magnet tool and a manual that described the XLR sensor reset procedure.
5 minutes later I'm on my way with the right DIC readings.

Dadonator

· #10 · Apr 5, 2006

Cracks me up...

Cracks me up that the dealers don't know to re-set the sensors ANY TIME they touch a tire

During my "every month" visit over the check-engine/oxygen sensor issue(s) I had a flat.

Since it was 10,000 mi, I had them rotate tires and do a 4 wheel alignment ($89.00) in addition to fixing the nail-in-tire.

All of my sensors were screwy :crazy afterward, but they fixed it next visit.

Just this weekend, the RR was 2lb low--I love just going to my compressor and filling the low tire.:thumbs

No need to check all 4.

--Bob (Dadonator)

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G

· #11 · Apr 5, 2006 (Edited)

I'm getting 3 piece rims made, and bought 4 sensors from GM, will they know what to do with the sensors at a quality tire store? (Grand Prix-Newport Beach)
Last page on far left bottom is a picture of the dirty dog.

http://www.wheelwarehouse.com/dub.htm

1_XLR

· #12 · Apr 5, 2006

Nice wheels:thumbs Very similar to your Foose but a step up
looks like a single piece wheel in the photo.

Don't know why you needed new sensors, a rip-off at 80 bucks apiece, but your tire styore should be able to set them.
If not, it's easy to do yourself with a basic magnet, I can post instructions if anyone needs.

G

· #13 · Apr 5, 2006

V rims are going to Europe with sensors left in for Hans

Jetboyphx

· #14 · Apr 6, 2006

standby said:
I'm getting 3 piece rims made, and bought 4 sensors from GM, will they know what to do with the sensors at a quality tire store? (Grand Prix-Newport Beach)
Last page on far left bottom is a picture of the dirty dog.

http://www.wheelwarehouse.com/dub.htm

Those are the best looking wheels I've seen for an XLR yet. What was the lead time to get them made?

G

· #15 · Apr 6, 2006

Jet,
Three weeks to the day, would have been ready in 2 1/2 but one rim wasn't up to Grand Prix's standards. I was impressed with that.
Cost, between 4K & 4.5K. Let you know when I get the total bill. Also shaping center caps from the V rims to fit the dirty dogs. They go on Saturday. 2K from Hans for V rims, so it's not as bad as it seems.
They need 2K up front, but if everything goes well and I still have the excellent ride I had with the V rims, I will have been the Guinea pig for this project.

Jetboyphx

· #16 · Apr 6, 2006

That is not a bad timeframe and when you consider what dealers are asking for lesser wheels, the price is not out of line either. You definately have a good eye.

G

· #17 · Apr 7, 2006

I have to add a note here. I just came back from Grand Prix and saw my rims. I wasn't totally happy with the fact that they weren't deep dish. The designer told me the offset and clearance for calipers would not allow him to make it a deep dish rim. Inset from the outside was only about 3". After he put one in front of my old wheel, I was a little bit more enthused, it certainly was 100% better than the stock rims. There going on tomorrow or Saturday and I will take pictures and post them. You guys be honest and tell me what you think. The designer said lead time would be about one week because he now has the design made.
Bob

Jetboyphx

· #18 · Apr 7, 2006

standby said:
I have to add a note here. I just came back from Grand Prix and saw my rims. I wasn't totally happy with the fact that they weren't deep dish. The designer told me the offset and clearance for calipers would not allow him to make it a deep dish rim. Inset from the outside was only about 3". After he put one in front of my old wheel, I was a little bit more enthused, it certainly was 100% better than the stock rims. There going on tomorrow or Saturday and I will take pictures and post them. You guys be honest and tell me what you think. The designer said lead time would be about one week because he now has the design made.
Bob

3" inset is about 3 times what I thought they could get. Do me a favor and measure your front tires outside edge to outside edge before and after. It will be interesting to see how those fit.

1_XLR

· #19 · Apr 7, 2006

I was able to get 3" lips on the rear, but only 2" in the front with the larger brakes

G

· #20 · Apr 8, 2006

I'm going to answer both questions here.

1. Lip................. front is 1 1/2----Back is 2 inches, sorry the 3 inches was a guess.
2. Edge of rim to fender...............1/4
Last measurement was the distance between the caliper and the back of the inset nearest the rim..........that's where we need the clearance. ..............1 inch.

The forks themselves have plenty of room. Had we all gone to 20's we could have had deep dish rims, but no run flats....................damn
bob

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