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Our 2005 XLR exhibits intermittent tire pressure warnings. After driving a few miles, the warning icon goes away and all tire pressures can be read...invariably they're normal. Is it time for the batteries in these tire pressure transmitters to die? If so, is it necessary to replace the entire monitor units?

While I have your attention: the trunk lid has just begun not closing after a top up cycle. It happened 2 out of 3 times we tired to put the top back up. Depressing the trunk-mounted "trunk close" button made it go down to complete the cycle, but what should I check? Battery is good and engine was running.
 

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While I have your attention: the trunk lid has just begun not closing after a top up cycle. It happened 2 out of 3 times we tired to put the top back up. Depressing the trunk-mounted "trunk close" button made it go down to complete the cycle, but what should I check? Battery is good and engine was running.
I'd like to hear any answers for this one as well... My "perfect" top operation has done this exact same thing about one out of three times in the past two weeks. The upper tonneau cover closes, but the trunk does not go down. release the top up button, and re-depress it and the trunk closes and locks...
 

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Tire pressure monitor/Trunk lid/top problems

Hi xlr8r,
Before you take your car to a dealer, the majority of the problems with these cars can be traced back to the car battery.

I would suggest that you check for loose battery connections, and with the engine off, use a DC voltmeter and check the static battery voltage. I should be a minumum of 12.5 volts.
Even though I've had my 06 for just over 3 years and use a Battery Tender I've had to replace my OEM battery 3 times since I bought it.
It only had 10,250 miles on it when I bought it in December of 2007 and I had to have it replaced at Martin Cadillac in Bowling Green, Ky, during R111 in 2008 and they didn't completely tighten the negitive cable to the battery terminal which resulted in all kinds of DIC messages and ended up shorting out a cell in the battery causing the trunk not to open when the engine wasn't running.
Of course the last 2 batteries were under warranty but the trouble caused by a loose connection made me want to ring someones neck!
I've added a DC voltmeter wired directly to the battery terminals so I see what the static voltage is before starting the car as the instrument cluster voltmeter dosen't register the voltage until after the engine starts.

Hope this helps you.
 

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Our 2005 XLR exhibits intermittent tire pressure warnings. After driving a few miles, the warning icon goes away and all tire pressures can be read...invariably they're normal. Is it time for the batteries in these tire pressure transmitters to die? If so, is it necessary to replace the entire monitor units?

While I have your attention: the trunk lid has just begun not closing after a top up cycle. It happened 2 out of 3 times we tired to put the top back up. Depressing the trunk-mounted "trunk close" button made it go down to complete the cycle, but what should I check? Battery is good and engine was running.
Regarding the TPMS Issue:

The chances of more than one TPM sensor going bad at the same time is low. Not impossible, just low.

Need more input for troubleshooting. Are all of the sensors not reading or just a few? Are the symptoms consistent each time you drive? Have you checked the tire's cold pressure? I've had bad readings (after long-term storage) due to low tire pressure that increased and went back into spec as the tire(s) warmed up.

As for the Rear Decklid Thinking its Got Viagra in the Hydraulic System:

The battery (voltage and connection integrity is the first suspect.)


I'll try to answer a couple of posts at once here: A lot of folks are having issues with rear decklids that won't lower, even after pressing the CLOSE switch. With the rear decklid raised, press and hold the rear-mounted CLOSE switch until the rear deck begins to retract. "Stabbing" (or pressing too quickly) the switch has caused me grief in the past. To reset a switch that doesn't lower the rear decklid, manually close the decklid until the auto-cinch latch engages, then operate the folding top through one complete cycle with the Top Control Switch. This has fixed the same issue for me twice in my XLR life. No more problemos. (Until the next time!) :cry

You may need to have the Folding Top system scanned for a bad sensor since your issue is occuring during a top cycle. That's one of the last answers you probably want to hear, but there isn't much you can do to troubleshoot the top without a Tech 2 if you KNOW the battery is good.



CC :seeya
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Regarding the TPMS Issue:

The chances of more than one TPM sensor going bad at the same time is low. Not impossible, just low.

Need more input for troubleshooting. Are all of the sensors not reading or just a few? Are the symptoms consistent each time you drive? Have you checked the tire's cold pressure? I've had bad readings (after long-term storage) due to low tire pressure that increased and went back into spec as the tire(s) warmed up.

As for the Rear Decklid Thinking its Got Viagra in the Hydraulic System:

The battery (voltage and connection integrity is the first suspect.)


I'll try to answer a couple of posts at once here: A lot of folks are having issues with rear decklids that won't lower, even after pressing the CLOSE switch. With the rear decklid raised, press and hold the rear-mounted CLOSE switch until the rear deck begins to retract. "Stabbing" (or pressing too quickly) the switch has caused me grief in the past. To reset a switch that doesn't lower the rear decklid, manually close the decklid until the auto-cinch latch engages, then operate the folding top through one complete cycle with the Top Control Switch. This has fixed the same issue for me twice in my XLR life. No more problemos. (Until the next time!) :cry

You may need to have the Folding Top system scanned for a bad sensor since your issue is occuring during a top cycle. That's one of the last answers you probably want to hear, but there isn't much you can do to troubleshoot the top without a Tech 2 if you KNOW the battery is good.



CC :seeya
Thanks for the reply. I'll check the battery terminals for looseness first. The TPMS warning will not allow me to change the DIC so I can see the readings. After this first occurred, I checked the pressures and all were within +/- 1 pound of 30 psi. The car is driven almost daily so there is no question of a long storage period. The static battery voltage, with only the hood open and nothing else on, reads 12.59 Volts using a Fluke Digital Mulit-meter. The dashboard voltmeter reads beyond 13 volts with the engine running. The battery terminals are hard tight and spotlessly clean.
Do you know if the tire mounted units have changeable batteries or need to be entirely changed out?

Thanks!
 

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GM TPMS sensors use long-lasting (this is an adjective, not a fact) lithium-ion batteries. Their nominal lifespan is supposed to be 5-7 years. When parked, the sensors shut off to conserve power. (Unless you park on a steep incline and the emergency brake decides to give it up.)

In the XLR, the TPMS sensors transmit their data to the RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) module --This is the same module that ignores your fob and locks you out when you're demo-ing your car to someone a lot more attractive than yourself. It's located out of sight and mind, under the dash pad above the glovebox.

The odds of multiple sensors biting the dust simultaneously are low. A Tech II can scan the system and ensure the batteries are in spec; otherwise the RCDLR could be suspect. I don't claim to be psychic, but I predict a quick scan by your dealer may be in your future to resolve this.

CC :seeya
 

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GM TPMS sensors use long-lasting (this is an adjective, not a fact) lithium-ion batteries. Their nominal lifespan is supposed to be 5-7 years. When parked, the sensors shut off to conserve power. (Unless you park on a steep incline and the emergency brake decides to give it up.)

In the XLR, the TPMS sensors transmit their data to the RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) module --This is the same module that ignores your fob and locks you out when you're demo-ing your car to someone a lot more attractive than yourself. It's located out of sight and mind, under the dash pad above the glovebox.

The odds of multiple sensors biting the dust simultaneously are low. A Tech II can scan the system and ensure the batteries are in spec; otherwise the RCDLR could be suspect. I don't claim to be psychic, but I predict a quick scan by your dealer may be in your future to resolve this.

CC :seeya

It also might help to reset the TPMS and see if they behave.

Regards

Jerry



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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
GM TPMS sensors use long-lasting (this is an adjective, not a fact) lithium-ion batteries. Their nominal lifespan is supposed to be 5-7 years. When parked, the sensors shut off to conserve power. (Unless you park on a steep incline and the emergency brake decides to give it up.)

In the XLR, the TPMS sensors transmit their data to the RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) module --This is the same module that ignores your fob and locks you out when you're demo-ing your car to someone a lot more attractive than yourself. It's located out of sight and mind, under the dash pad above the glovebox.

The odds of multiple sensors biting the dust simultaneously are low. A Tech II can scan the system and ensure the batteries are in spec; otherwise the RCDLR could be suspect. I don't claim to be psychic, but I predict a quick scan by your dealer may be in your future to resolve this.

CC :seeya
I really appreciate your time and insight on my issues! Next time we visit the dealer, I'll ask them to scan the system with their Tech II.
 
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