[Dadonator]

I've got 21,000 on my 2004 XLR--I do almost exactly 7,000 miles/year.

Has anyone tried to run the original tires up to 28,000 miles? :confused

My lease expires Feb, 2008, so I want them to last one more year, otherwise I'm just buying a new set for the next owner!

I don't care if they are smooth as racing slicks at 28,000--I'm just worried that they will blow by then!

Also, I've scratched up the passenger rear wheel on a curb or two over the last 3 years, anyone know a good aluminum wheel repair shop (preferably East Coast/NY area)?

--Bob :flag

 

[Guest]

If I'm not mistaken here, I think you'll be dinged for the lack of rubber on the vehicle when you turn it in, so with that in mind, I would like to see you spend some of that hard earned money on some safe tires and keep you around on the forum.
Bob

I've got 21,000 on my 2004 XLR--I do almost exactly 7,000 miles/year.

Has anyone tried to run the original tires up to 28,000 miles? :confused

My lease expires Feb, 2008, so I want them to last one more year, otherwise I'm just buying a new set for the next owner!

I don't care if they are smooth as racing slicks at 28,000--I'm just worried that they will blow by then!

Also, I've scratched up the passenger rear wheel on a curb or two over the last 3 years, anyone know a good aluminum wheel repair shop (preferably East Coast/NY area)?

--Bob :flag

 

[1_XLR]

nevermind the tires.....how many miles are allowed on your lease??
7,000/year isn't much....if you're allowed more....use 'em or loose 'em!
don't turn it in with lots of left-over miles and new tires!

 

[jackewells]

I just traded my 2005 with 22,000 miles on it. The tires looked like new..:flag

 

[bumbleent]

I purchasd new tires at 30.000 miles. The new ones have 15,000 and seem to be lasting longer. I now inflate to 35psi(cold). The low volume of air causes a lot of pressure variation. I f you inflate to 32psi after a trip on a hot afternoon, the pressure the next morning may get to 25.

bumbleent

 

[XLR I FL]

I had a set replaced on my 2004 XLR at 15k as have other members. I agree with standby we want to see you around the forum!! So saving a few bucks isn't worth it in the long run.

I suggest that the real consideration should be how much tread is left on each tire. Remember the old penny trick. If the head of a Lincoln doesn't disappear into each tread on each tire you are in the final stages of wear. Of course the wear indicators are a good measure too.

FWIW: A new member had a set for sale here for $800 wheels and tires not long ago. It may solve BOTH of your problems.

Regards

 

[Dadonator]

Thanks

Thanks for your sound advice, Standby, but given how little I drive it (she's actually my train station car, ridiculous as that may seem) it seems wasteful. I've actually found the grip to be better with the more racing-slick like tires!

Needless to say, in rain and snow, I'm VERY light on the gas pedal (problem is, the sunny, dry days find me a touch HEAVY on the gas pedal) :reddevil

At my last dealer visit (recall) I asked about the tires, and they said that they were fine--I'm quite meticulous about air pressure, alignment and rotation, etc.:flag

I just happen to love turning off both levels of traction control and 4 wheel drifting thru certain "safe" turns in my neighborhood, entrances to parkways, etc.--she's so perfectly balanced, and slides so predictably/ controllably, that it's hard to drive slow on a sunny day!!! :reddevil

Jackewells, I do have to have some minimum tread on the tires at trade-in but I will fight them since A) the tires have a 40,000 mi "warranty" and B) I'll almost certainly be leasing a new 08' XLR-V--I'm only worried about some nice gouges on the right rear wheel from an avoidance maneuver that was great for preventing a collision with the other guy, but just scraped the outer edge of the rim on a curb...GMAC finance might draw the line at a wheel repair--they expect to replace tires on a 4 year old car...anyone know a good aluminum wheel repair shop (whew, I need to inhale)?

--Dado

 

[jackewells]

You might be better off looking for another wheel, either here or on E-Bay. There are lots for sale.

The problem with repairing is matching the factory powder coat which I am told is near impossible.........

 

[jackewells]

I understand that a set of 04 XLR rims are available at a reasonable price from

[email protected]:smash

 

[Dadonator]

Thanks Guys!

As always, good advice from all of you :cheers

I'll save the wheel shopping until the end of the lease--no sense trashing a new wheel and having to get yet another one!:nodno

--Dado

 

[Beemerboy]

Tires

I'm now up to 30,000 miles and my tires still look new. I drive almost only highway at 75-95 mph.

 

[XLR I FL]

Remember you have the option of going to the new lease early on the 2008 "V". They will move your remaining credit on the old lease to the new car. That should help some in the tire issue.

ALSO, GM has a new feature that is an interesting consideration to get you out of those pesky "OOOPS" issues --tires, dings, other wear issues. They now offer a damage protection feature ($500 +-) that should run the duration of your 3 year lease. that's what it was on my wife's 2007 CTS Sport.

So now you can REALLY walk away from the car at the end of the lease and not pay for any small damage. (SORRY standby, it doesn't cover tearing out the undercarrage of your car or ripping fenders off. HA, HA)

Regards

 

[Guest]

Guess I'm lucky, I own my V and don't have to worry about such things. If I buy another one, I merely give the V to a broker for $500 and he sells it for me, then I rush down and make my best deal............works for me.
Bob

 

[Dadonator]

Excellent Idea

Remember you have the option of going to the new lease early on the 2008 "V". They will move your remaining credit on the old lease to the new car. That should help some in the tire issue.

ALSO, GM has a new feature that is an interesting consideration to get you out of those pesky "OOOPS" issues --tires, dings, other wear issues. They now offer a damage protection feature ($500 +-) that should run the duration of your 3 year lease. that's what it was on my wife's 2007 CTS Sport.

So now you can REALLY walk away from the car at the end of the lease and not pay for any small damage. (SORRY standby, it doesn't cover tearing out the undercarrage of your car or ripping fenders off. HA, HA)

Regards

I have to look into this option, but they are making such a killing on my 04' lease that I've seen 07' V's for a few hundred less, which means they have ZERO incentive to get me out:boxing

Of course it can't hurt to try--I can afford it, but I'd love to have a V NOW!!!:iagree

The "lease insurance" is a brilliant idea, since there's always 350 to 500 in "normal" wear and tear fees on any car at lease end too.

Thanks XLR I FL

 

[Guest]

You should be ready to get someone to take over your lease and bail out......Find a broker near your town and list it with him/her. They put it on e-bay, all the web sites that list vehicles and your local paper, they do a damn good job for little or no money.......Don't lease the V unless you have a way to write it off. At least it's yours when you make the last payment.
Bob

I have to look into this option, but they are making such a killing on my 04' lease that I've seen 07' V's for a few hundred less, which means they have ZERO incentive to get me out:boxing

Of course it can't hurt to try--I can afford it, but I'd love to have a V NOW!!!:iagree

The "lease insurance" is a brilliant idea, since there's always 350 to 500 in "normal" wear and tear fees on any car at lease end too.

Thanks XLR I FL

 

[XLR I FL]

Dadonater:

We all know these cars aren't exactly flying off of the dealers lots. So I think an astute dealer will be more than willing to work with you on a new one.

I am sure it occured to you but if you step out now the milege stops under the lease maximum and you just transfer your unused lease payments over to the new car and sign the new negotiated lease cash based on your negotiated price and your "unused payments" credit and you're done.

It's February now so there is 6 months until the 2008's start showing up. That also means that there are/will be "left over" 2007's that will sit on the lots or in Kentucky waIting for owners just like the 2006 "V's" did.

A BUYERS DELIGHT --MORE SUPPLY THAN DEMAND.

Go talk to the new car sales manager at your dealership and see what he thinks.

THEY KNOW THEY CAN MOVE YOUR USED ONE AT ABOUT 1/2 THE PRICE AFTER THEY CADILLAC CERTIFY IT for 5 years and 100k miles Just like new ones.

Regards

 

[Dadonator]

5 degrees in NY....

Soon as it warms up to a balmy 30 degrees or so, I will have to go visit the guys at Sholz Cadillac in White Plains, NY!arty I think the last #'s that I saw were $799.00/month for a 30 month lease, for a "V"--WAY less than I pay now for the base XLR--if the residual on an 04' is 1/2, there may be a good deal for all concerned:yesnod .

Standby, I do write off a good chunk, so leasing makes sense for me--I'm too scared to own a car as complicated as the XLR out of warranty--what's an average service call, $2,000.00? An oil change must be $250.00, right?

Seriously, I had a nail in a tire a year or two ago, the garage fixed it and then said "$5.00 I mean $15.00" for the repair--instant triple-the-price because it's an expensive car.

No big deal for the nail, but I'm not brave enough to pay for the repair guy's learning curve on the big stuff. As we all know, they ALL have a huge learning curve for almost every repair, because the car is so rare.:leaving

--Bob (Dado)

 

[XLR I FL]

I think the dealer will let you slide (normal wear and tear) on the tires IF you are buying a 2007 "V". He'll replace them under the Cadillac Certify program.

Where you are It's COLD and sales are certainly slow especially on these cars right now. SO YOU are in the drivers seat. Your car should be worth in the mid 40's IF it were yours to trade in. If it were on sale Certified it would go for the high $40's into the low $50's.

Think about it would you buy YOUR car (know the previous owner) if it was offered for that price with the same warranty you have on it now for 5 years/100k miles? this is the same warranty on the 2007's.

I say it's a REAL DEAL!!!

 

[Guest]

Dado,
If your car is under warranty for 5 years or 100,000 miles. you hardly pay for anything and you don't pay for oil changes.............their free free free every 10,000 miles, then you bail out when it gets near 5 years. I guess the right off helps you and is worry free.
standby

Soon as it warms up to a balmy 30 degrees or so, I will have to go visit the guys at Sholz Cadillac in White Plains, NY!arty I think the last #'s that I saw were $799.00/month for a 30 month lease, for a "V"--WAY less than I pay now for the base XLR--if the residual on an 04' is 1/2, there may be a good deal for all concerned:yesnod .

Standby, I do write off a good chunk, so leasing makes sense for me--I'm too scared to own a car as complicated as the XLR out of warranty--what's an average service call, $2,000.00? An oil change must be $250.00, right?

Seriously, I had a nail in a tire a year or two ago, the garage fixed it and then said "$5.00 I mean $15.00" for the repair--instant triple-the-price because it's an expensive car.

No big deal for the nail, but I'm not brave enough to pay for the repair guy's learning curve on the big stuff. As we all know, they ALL have a huge learning curve for almost every repair, because the car is so rare.:leaving

--Bob (Dado)

 

[XLRAT]

We bought our 04 last fall, 2006, and it was certified. GM even let us take over the XLR premium service package for $50.

The car now has a longer warranty than it did new and the oil and filter changes are still included.

If you have had the car since birth through the lease then this is a great way to keep something that you know what has happened with it.

Good luck!

Paul