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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Some tricks for the XLR

Press TC on the console and hold for 5 seconds and it takes off the TC & Stabilitrack system= much quicker off the line and you now have control of your XLR. Go pop a wheely, (not really). Still a little slow off the line? Change out the gears for a Vette 6 speed gear set up. You will also need the code from Cadillac for the computer, so the tranny and gears can talk the same language. It's about $2,500 but it would probably get your heart pumping.
A free fix from Caddy is available for the heat under the console from the exhaust, which during the summer gets really hot & just about boils water bottles in the cup holders. It's a space age heat reflector, which takes a day to put in.
When you buy this awsome machine, give yourself a good month, between work, play and romance to read all the books in the glove box. Plan on sitting in
your machine for hours at a time to play with all the gadgets that aren't just standing out there to be played with. This vehicle...OOOPS!....machine doesn't look intimidating on the inside unless you really know what's available to you under all that Carbon There are features that will bogle the mind.............and someone said this is not a luxury Roadster? He should be anshamed of himself.
 

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As I explained to you on the other forum, you are completely off-base with your claim that your XLR will come to a complete stop without your assistance. Your "active cruise" does not function below 20 mph and will not bring the vehicle to a complete stop as you are suggesting.

BTW - It's five seconds, not eight..........
 

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I don't believe anyone is picking your information apart, I'm simply pointing out that you are posting incorrect information that if followed would lead to a collision.

BTW - It's Adaptive Cruise Control and it will not engage below 25 mph and disengages when your speed drops below 20 mph.
 

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mswaim said:
I don't believe anyone is picking your information apart, I'm simply pointing out that you are posting incorrect information that if followed would lead to a collision.

BTW - It's Adaptive Cruise Control and it will not engage below 25 mph and disengages when your speed drops below 20 mph.

Before we get into a virtual shouting match, may an impartial third part throw in his two sense. This is based on use and studying the system.

- Active cruise control can only be engaged at 25 MPH. However, if you time it just right you might be able to get it to engage at 24 MPH (for whatever that is worth) by slightly decellerating while engaging at 25 MPH.

- The ACC warning light begins flashing anytime the vehicle goes below 20 MPH and the active cruise is engaged. At that point the XLR will no longer attempt to accelerate under ACC.

- However, the ACC braking system will continue to work down to 5 MPH. The algorithm used below 20 MPH for braking appears very different than the one used from 20 MPH and greater. That the algorithm is different is my speculation based on use. The warning light remains illuminated while the braking continues.

- Below 5 MPH, the ACC simply goes completely passive with no braking and no acceleration. Mostly the XLR will stop at this point because of friction and inertia but not always. Your results may vary.


Hope that helps the settle the argument...


Andy
 

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Andy, your points are well taken, however the original difference of opinion grew out of the statement that the XLR will come to a complete, unassisted stop if faced with a fixed object, ie, a vehicle stopped in its path. The rest of the thread is of little value since pinning down the actual speed at which the system operates or fails to is mostly semantics.
 

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mswaim said:
Andy, your points are well taken, however the original difference of opinion grew out of the statement that the XLR will come to a complete, unassisted stop if faced with a fixed object, ie, a vehicle stopped in its path. The rest of the thread is of little value since pinning down the actual speed at which the system operates or fails to is mostly semantics.
Thank you - I should have read closer.

OK, as far as fixed objects are concerned. They are part of the road. The system won't "see" a non-moving wall in front of it until the very last second (too late). The same holds true for a non-moving car in front of the XLR.

Speculation - the reason for this behaviour comes from not "knowing" how the road turns. If the ACC sees a background object in front of it and then brakes, we would have problems everytime we made a turn where straight-ahead had a wall or building. That would be a really annoying system (IMHO)! The system does have accelerometers for measuring turns (that is how the "tight curve" message is generated) but I'm afraid non-moving objects are still the responsibility of the driver.

Andy
 

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I do believe you are correct Andy. I have tried it all and I have driven my XLR as much or more than most members on this forum, 23558 miles since april 14 2004. just put new rubber, slotted and drilled rotors and Z rated brake pads on and have tried to let my car stop when a vehicle in front slowed and then come to a full stop. mine would slow way down but didn't come to a stop until I stepped on the brake. No guts no glory.
 

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BUDSVET said:
I do believe you are correct Andy. I have tried it all and I have driven my XLR as much or more than most members on this forum, 23558 miles since april 14 2004. just put new rubber, slotted and drilled rotors and Z rated brake pads on and have tried to let my car stop when a vehicle in front slowed and then come to a full stop. mine would slow way down but didn't come to a stop until I stepped on the brake. No guts no glory.
Ouch....now that's what I call dedicated research.

BTW - Whose slotted/drilled rotors and pads did you go with ?
 

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I used nationalfleetparts SP Performance. the pads are Z pads and they are the same as the corvette. $ 272.00 for front and rear and the rotors I bought on Ebay for $189.00. the rotors are treated so that they won't rust and when you brake them in they will smoke a bit. but they need to be broke in properly. they don't aqueal yet and I doubt if they will but my old ones never did either. I am looking for stainless steal brake lines, haven't found any yet. [email protected] is the guy in CA. selling the rotors.very easy guy to deal with.
 

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I've seen his listings on Ebay, guess I'll have to check a bit closer. When you get a chance, how about a photo or two?
 

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mswaim said:
I've seen his listings on Ebay, guess I'll have to check a bit closer. When you get a chance, how about a photo or two?
I saw the ebay listing too, only it shows 289. now for the set of four.
they sell the CTS at 189 and esclade at 205, whats that all about???
did you buy all four at 189 ??
 

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Have to check my credit card. thought I did, but hell sometimes I forget where I live. let you know later. will post some pic tomorrow. Just checked my account on ebay and it was $ 189 plus shipping for all four which put the total $236.00
 

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Thanks XLR Forum (again!)

Just found this thread--I'm embarrased to say that I didn't know the 5-8 second trick on the traction control switch--here I thought I got rid of the annoying traction control, and I still had Stabilitrack on!

I thought the front tire was hitting the wheel well when I pulled on to the highway from a right angled stop sign near my house (at full throttle :angel ).

Turns out it was the stabilization/traction control, which I thought I'd turned off!

THANKS AGAIN XLR FORUM PEOPLE!

Feels like I've got a whole new toy, after 10 months--the tranny computer seems a bit "angrier" in this mode too!!! :reddevil

:party :party :party

--Bob

PS I'm psyched to finally figure out how to import an avatar!
 

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Thank you for the info

I've had my XLR for a couple of months. I've been wondering about that heat under the console. I'm glad you mentioned this because I was ready to call the service dept. to inquire about it.

Also, I didn't realize that turning stabilitrak off would increase the off the line performance. I'm on three weeks travel and miss my XLR. But I will be looking into these things when I return.

Thanks again
 

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Same place you would go for the codes..............dreamland. Just kidding, although if you read the entire thread you should have noted that most of the information posted by the original poster is to be taken with a grain (or a bucket) of salt. The setup will cost $2,500 according to him, I'm assuming that includes the cost of the computer codes - a real bargain considering their actual marketplace value (if they were actually available).

I'm quite sure they would help every bit as well as the "space-age" heat reflector fix did.


Space age........now that's a term you don't hear every day.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I repeat..................I consider the source
mswaim said:
Same place you would go for the codes..............dreamland. Just kidding, although if you read the entire thread you should have noted that most of the information posted by the original poster is to be taken with a grain (or a bucket) of salt. The setup will cost $2,500 according to him, I'm assuming that includes the cost of the computer codes - a real bargain considering their actual marketplace value (if they were actually available).

I'm quite sure they would help every bit as well as the "space-age" heat reflector fix did.


Space age........now that's a term you don't hear every day.
 

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So you are sticking by your story that for $2,500 I can purchase the rear gears from an 2005 C6 along with the computer codes for an XLR (programmable codes) and complete a successful swap?

You are so right, consider the source. :bs
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Some information that I have posted on this site came from reputable people and dealers, such as Chevrolet, I have no way of knowing if it is factual or not, my intent was to try to give people on this site information that would help them make up their minds for themselves. I merely passed on information that was given to me on the rear end by the Chevrolet people. Another one of my posts clearly states that you have to have a code in order to make this work.

I think I remember you now........................You where the playground bully.

mswaim said:
So you are sticking by your story that for $2,500 I can purchase the rear gears from an 2005 C6 along with the computer codes for an XLR (programmable codes) and complete a successful swap?

You are so right, consider the source. :bs
 
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