Well you make good points but this car is still under factory warranty and I can not TELL the dealer how to check out my questions. I fully understand how gasoline fueled internal combustion engines work. I am a former GM Proving Grounds Engineer and I have been building and racing powerboats for the past 40 + years. Being a 2007 inductee of the West Coast Boat Racers Museum, right along side of/with Stuart Hillborn, (and others) I have a 'small clue' as to what my Northstar engine is (or is not) doing. I just feel I need to educate my local dealer as to "what is correct and what is not" . If the car were not 'under warranty' I would do the work myself, (after purchasing a TECH 2) but it is and I will continue to "walk the line" as far as dealer services go. I'm just posting this here to "BITCH, CONVERSE, and EDUCATE" myself. Many of you here have more 'miles' logged as far as dealer services and their short commings, I just come here to "exchange information" and I thank all of you for your input.
Not overheating, BUT.....
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There is nothing I can add to that.
To recap,
1/ My XLR has an effective coolant tank (header tank) cap, it requires a firm grip to remove it, I can't see any way it will just unscrew
2/ Any (modern, sealed system) car that is blowing coolant out of the header tank has a fault.
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325 Posts
Wheel Specialists in Tempe swapped out my brushed OEM's for chrome OEM's for $850 installed. They provide wheels to all the high end dealers in the Phoenix area. Have used them fo rother cars as well.
www.wsiwholesale.com
www.wsiwholesale.com
Thank you for the 'wheel connection', near my 'hood. I went thru the bank 'auto ATM' today and have a cooling system question. I was 3rd in line and waited (aprox) 10 minutes for my turn and then another 3 minutes for my business. I idled 'out of gear' 90% of the time, and yet my coolant temp went from it's 'normal 10.30' (clock position) to almost straight up (220F) on the gauge. I never heard any fans turn on while idling in line. I had no A/C on, and when I first noticed indicator level moving up I opened the window to listen for fans. No sounds, no fluid leaks. Done with my business, I drove UP the street at 35/38 MPH and within a block the temp needle started going down. 1.5 miles later the coolant temp level was back to normal. My questions are: does this car have 'cooling fans operational when the A/C is off? Also, IF there are fans, what temp is required for them to operate? What if I am stuck in 'stop and not go traffic' ? Then lastly, is MY PROBLEM common or normal, or terminal ? Thank you for any and all replies.
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1,100 Posts
Questions to the answers you posted:
1) Yes, the XLR does have an engine cooling fan.
2) Yes, the engine cooling fan can operate with the A/C off if the engine coolant, engine oil or transmission fluid temperatures are high enough.
3) Fan operating parameters are:
Low –speed fan operation begins @ 204 degrees (engine coolant temp.) or A/C pressure of 160 psi.
High-speed operation begins @235 degrees (engine coolant temp), 302 degrees (engine oil temp), 270 degrees (transmission oil temp.) or A/C pressure of 360 psi.
If the engine is shut off and the engine coolant temp is >235 degrees, or A/C pressure is >249 psi, the cooling fan is commanded to low speed. After shut-off if the coolant temp drops below 230, or A/C pressure <241 psi, the fan will shut down. The fan will turn off after two minutes has elapsed, regardless of temperature.
The Engine Control Module controls the cooling fan speed via the Fan Control module.
The COOLANT OVER TEMP indicator will illuminate if the engine coolant exceeds 256 degrees. The optional ejection seat should deploy if the cabin interior temperature sensor (located adjacent to the ignition switch) exceeds 190 degrees. (Just wanted to see if anyone was still awake after reading this.)
---Quite a cooling system on this car. Did you know even the generator has engine coolant lines running through it? (A major job to replace too.)
4) Your system is probably working nominally, but if you're concerned about the coolant system, have it checked/flushed if necessary. The fan duty cycle can also be tested with a Tech 2 in 10% increments.
Hope this helps,
CC :cheers
1) Yes, the XLR does have an engine cooling fan.
2) Yes, the engine cooling fan can operate with the A/C off if the engine coolant, engine oil or transmission fluid temperatures are high enough.
3) Fan operating parameters are:
Low –speed fan operation begins @ 204 degrees (engine coolant temp.) or A/C pressure of 160 psi.
High-speed operation begins @235 degrees (engine coolant temp), 302 degrees (engine oil temp), 270 degrees (transmission oil temp.) or A/C pressure of 360 psi.
If the engine is shut off and the engine coolant temp is >235 degrees, or A/C pressure is >249 psi, the cooling fan is commanded to low speed. After shut-off if the coolant temp drops below 230, or A/C pressure <241 psi, the fan will shut down. The fan will turn off after two minutes has elapsed, regardless of temperature.
The Engine Control Module controls the cooling fan speed via the Fan Control module.
The COOLANT OVER TEMP indicator will illuminate if the engine coolant exceeds 256 degrees. The optional ejection seat should deploy if the cabin interior temperature sensor (located adjacent to the ignition switch) exceeds 190 degrees. (Just wanted to see if anyone was still awake after reading this.)
---Quite a cooling system on this car. Did you know even the generator has engine coolant lines running through it? (A major job to replace too.)
4) Your system is probably working nominally, but if you're concerned about the coolant system, have it checked/flushed if necessary. The fan duty cycle can also be tested with a Tech 2 in 10% increments.
Hope this helps,
CC :cheers
Thank You Very Much !
Those are the parameters I was asking about. I now understand that my car SHOULD start cooling itself when the dash needle gets 'just over 1 o'clock' and then I should also have no coolant loss. I read my 'owner's manual' and it did not indicate how the 'dash gauge' should react to 'stopped in traffic' conditions. Even though it has lost coolant a number of times, it has never shown coolant (indicated) temps above the needle reading of straight up. Thank you !
Those are the parameters I was asking about. I now understand that my car SHOULD start cooling itself when the dash needle gets 'just over 1 o'clock' and then I should also have no coolant loss. I read my 'owner's manual' and it did not indicate how the 'dash gauge' should react to 'stopped in traffic' conditions. Even though it has lost coolant a number of times, it has never shown coolant (indicated) temps above the needle reading of straight up. Thank you !
Well I'm back.....
The car has been parked for aprox 6 weeks, due to city sewer install and torn up streets. Rolled her out on Saturday (have been using battery charger every 5 days) and everything was fine UNTIL.... We got in stopped traffic. The dash gauge never got to 210 (F) indicated, but we could smell the odor of HOT/BURNT COOLANT while driving the car and while it's parked. I still feel that there is a coolant leak somewhere, but there are no DRIPS under the car. This car always runs hotter when the A/C is off, but it has never gotten above 210 (F) indicated, at any time. In stopped traffic I can turn on the A/C and it takes about 3-5 minutes to cool the motor down to "10 o'clock" on the temp gauge. If I don't run the A/C the temp gets up to aprox. 195 and we smell the ODOR. ?????? Am I losing a head gasket ? Do 2008's also have radiator 'tank/leak' problems ? This is not the kind of question I should be asking about a well maintained 34K mileage car. ????
The car has been parked for aprox 6 weeks, due to city sewer install and torn up streets. Rolled her out on Saturday (have been using battery charger every 5 days) and everything was fine UNTIL.... We got in stopped traffic. The dash gauge never got to 210 (F) indicated, but we could smell the odor of HOT/BURNT COOLANT while driving the car and while it's parked. I still feel that there is a coolant leak somewhere, but there are no DRIPS under the car. This car always runs hotter when the A/C is off, but it has never gotten above 210 (F) indicated, at any time. In stopped traffic I can turn on the A/C and it takes about 3-5 minutes to cool the motor down to "10 o'clock" on the temp gauge. If I don't run the A/C the temp gets up to aprox. 195 and we smell the ODOR. ?????? Am I losing a head gasket ? Do 2008's also have radiator 'tank/leak' problems ? This is not the kind of question I should be asking about a well maintained 34K mileage car. ????
So here we are 3 + years later ......
I feel that I have been 'reasonable' these past years . This car runs fine, seems to not 'overheat', but once the temp gauge gets to the '2' of the 210, I get a burning coolant odor (also burnt oil odor at times) STILL . I can't park it in the garage (attached) because the odor is so strong . I have been parking it on my 'drive through' front porch and I want to put it in the garage . I have one more year of GMPP and I need this problem cured . I'm in a small town and the GM dealer is a Chevy, but they are the one's who put the long block in the car (3 years ago) and they do all the services . Please, who is the 'factory or GMPP person' on this board ? I love this car, but it emits an odor like an old 50's POS . It's so bad that driving in Calif. 'stop and go traffic', the odor comes through the 'cabin filter' and it's overwhelming with the windows open or the top down . They tell me that there is 'no coolant loss', but even the service advisors have smelled the problem when I have done a 'drive bye' . It's in the shop right now, and they "still can't find any problem", and I feel they need a little more incentive here . (or more knowledge) HELP ! Thanks for reading .
I feel that I have been 'reasonable' these past years . This car runs fine, seems to not 'overheat', but once the temp gauge gets to the '2' of the 210, I get a burning coolant odor (also burnt oil odor at times) STILL . I can't park it in the garage (attached) because the odor is so strong . I have been parking it on my 'drive through' front porch and I want to put it in the garage . I have one more year of GMPP and I need this problem cured . I'm in a small town and the GM dealer is a Chevy, but they are the one's who put the long block in the car (3 years ago) and they do all the services . Please, who is the 'factory or GMPP person' on this board ? I love this car, but it emits an odor like an old 50's POS . It's so bad that driving in Calif. 'stop and go traffic', the odor comes through the 'cabin filter' and it's overwhelming with the windows open or the top down . They tell me that there is 'no coolant loss', but even the service advisors have smelled the problem when I have done a 'drive bye' . It's in the shop right now, and they "still can't find any problem", and I feel they need a little more incentive here . (or more knowledge) HELP ! Thanks for reading .
Spoke with GM and ......
they will pay for 'one hour diagnostic time', to any other dealer . My local dealer refuses to 'find any problem', even though the people on the service drive have smelled this odor (s) for 3 years . What dealers in Phoenix, Las Vegas, Los Angeles area have techs that know this car ? Thanks .
they will pay for 'one hour diagnostic time', to any other dealer . My local dealer refuses to 'find any problem', even though the people on the service drive have smelled this odor (s) for 3 years . What dealers in Phoenix, Las Vegas, Los Angeles area have techs that know this car ? Thanks .
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59 Posts
Not overheating,But
AzGeo
Has anyone looked at the heater core as the culprit! Your dealer needs to put the cooling system under constant pressure for hours. Both in the cold and warm conditions. Coolant doesn't evaporate unless boiling in open air. I think you stated they put in a long block on this car?
V Happy
AzGeo
Has anyone looked at the heater core as the culprit! Your dealer needs to put the cooling system under constant pressure for hours. Both in the cold and warm conditions. Coolant doesn't evaporate unless boiling in open air. I think you stated they put in a long block on this car?
V Happy
Thank you .....
They state that they have pressure checked it many times . The odor is 'burning coolant', like a small amount is dripping on the exhaust header . I feel that it's on the driver's side of the car, too . This only happens when the temp gauge is at 'the 2 or hotter', of the 210 . I can drive the car on the hiway at any speeds, and it never gets to 'the 2', but in 'stop and go' or low speed city streets, it warms up and has this overwhelming odor . I asked 2 years ago if there could be coolant 'trapped' in the valley, they said NO . I can't park it in my attached garage due to the odor problem, and they still 'blow me off' .
They state that they have pressure checked it many times . The odor is 'burning coolant', like a small amount is dripping on the exhaust header . I feel that it's on the driver's side of the car, too . This only happens when the temp gauge is at 'the 2 or hotter', of the 210 . I can drive the car on the hiway at any speeds, and it never gets to 'the 2', but in 'stop and go' or low speed city streets, it warms up and has this overwhelming odor . I asked 2 years ago if there could be coolant 'trapped' in the valley, they said NO . I can't park it in my attached garage due to the odor problem, and they still 'blow me off' .
Is there any evidence that you are losing coolant? Ie is the level dropping in the header tank? Diagnosing a smell remotely is no easy task, but maybe what you have got is the after smell of an old (fixed) leak. When the motor gets a bit hotter, the smell is worse? Also, make sure the cooling fan is working. They can fail and all will be well at highway speeds but not good in stop and go. Whatever, 220 is not too hot by a long way. That is nominal.
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