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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I bought the '05 a few months back I was worried I would regret that decision since I am not impressed by GM's engineering or quality. I didn't think that dread would be realized so quickly. The car has been in the shop now for 5 straight days and I have not heard from the dealer the past two. I guess nothing is new, meaning they have no fix for a GM recognized problem that sometimes the FOB is not recognized when I approach the car, or while in it; in fact in my garage it will not start unless I put the FOB in the slot inside the glovebox! It even locked the car with the FOB in it, which of course it is never supposed to do. Perhaps the garage door opener is interfering with the the FOB's transmitter frequency, but GM has not admitted that to me, nor should that be my problem, just that they have not been able to come up with a solution. So , the XLR sits in the dealer parking lot while I drive a loaner luxo barge, counting the days before I can employ the Lemon Law and seek a refund.
Also bothersome is GM's assertion that the loose front seat (upon start up the seat slips back an inch or so, as though there were a loose bolt) is "normal", as is the extreme heat generated in the trunk on long drives (the vitamins in my shaving kit inside my overnight bag were melted together at the end of a 1000 mile trip)!
It is sad that when I think of a luxury car, or a higher end sport car I cannot look to American builders with any degree of confidence.
Caveat Emptor!
 

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You have not experienced heat until you've owned a Porsche Boxster. I was on a 225 mile trip with my suit in a garment bag in the trunk. When I arrived the suit could not have been more wrinkled. The heat was as hot as a press in the dry cleaners!
As far as the fob not working. If it works fine everywhere but your garage then I would agree it might be your garage opener interfering. If that is the case, perhaps your opener is bleeding out radio waves beyond its legal tolerances and therefore should be replaced. We can not expect GM to be responsible for another manufactures malfunctioning equipment. If the FOB has this problem in many locations then if they have to replace the receiver as well as your two Fob’s that should not be that difficult. Mine works perfect as I’m sure most of the others that have been manufactured.
I have been a member of the 2005 Mustang web page, the 2005 Chrysler 300C web page, Boxster, Allante and many other vehicle web pages. I have seen mention of a GM by back used more here than anywhere else and even though these problems are annoying people here are on the second return for the repair counting the days till they can file on the third attempt. Now I’ve owned Rolls Royce’s, Bentley’s and Mercedes. I’ve also owned several businesses. It seemed like the people we gave the best deals to were never happy. Why because they could not afford the product and there for thought if I’m going to spend all this money on this item it better be perfect! There expectations were unrealistic. Now I do not think having a FOB work right is unrealistic but working with them to find the solution rather than against them is the way to act. For example, unplug your garage opener; if the FOB works then buy another opener, if the problem is solved “then forget about it”! Surely if you can afford an 80K car you can afford to spend $300. on an opener, if your current one is bleeding radio waves it is most likely old and should be replaced. Now I know this will ruffle some feathers but if you like your car and truly not trying to get out of it but solve the problem you would not even be mentioning the buy back until long after the legal requirements not before. All I’m going to say is GM is not stupid and they have seen people over there head in car payments at every level and they all behave the same. If that’s not the case stop acting like it and together work on the problem. :cheers
 
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jacK,

This goes along with the hot console. to feel the heat generated by who knows what, stick your hand down between the seat and console after riding for hours on a hot day, just don't leave it there to long. I have had a heat gun with a laser on that spot and have rung up some big numbers, like 140 degrees. GM is just plain being arrogant about some of these fixes that should be taken care of
As for drduke, I feel your pain and I apologize for you being Keel hawled.

Now, to answer our NEW Upstate NY upstart.
First of all you are assuming that because a person wants out of a vehicle that has not lived up to it's expectataions, they can't afford the payments, and to challenge someone on this site in this fashion, I think is wrong. Ask this man for his private E-mail to descuss such matters
I personally have the pink slip from the first day of ownership and I would Lemon Law my vehicle if I thought I could, just for the arrogance of GM.
You go on a 7,000 mile trip in the summer and have to slam your side up against the door in order to get away from the heat from the console and maybe you might be singing a different song, go to drink a bottle of water from the cup holder after an hour and find it hot enough to make coffee, take you luggage out of the trunk and all the clothes are destroyed, have to carry all cosmetiics, etc in the cabin with you, and GOD knows, there isn't enough room for a map up there.
My E-mail is [email protected]. If you wish to admonish me, please do it by this method
jackewells said:
I keep seeing more and more about heat in the trunk. Checked my 05 and it is hot as hell.
Has anyone had any luck solving this? :flag
 

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We're Confused

Under what minimum conditions do these heat problems with the console and trunk appear? We have a late year production Black Raven 05 XLR and have driven it for 45 minutes in 100 degree temperatures (heat index 115) with the top down and neither the console nor the interior of the trunk felt the least bit "hot". In fact, the cold beer from the grocery in the trunk was still cool when we arrived home. What are we missing here? Yes, we're confused.

Best regards,
Ed and Sandra
 

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This post is in response to drduke’s comment “upon start up the seat slips back an inch or so, as though there were a loose bolt”. Perhaps it’s the result of the lack of elaboration on the problem, but we couldn’t help but wonder if the driver’s preferred position is not set correctly, i.e. the driver position is 1” further back than the exit position that has been selected. If that were the case, indeed the seat would move back when the engine is started. Surely that’s not why it’s happening (much too simple), but have you properly tried resetting the selected driver’s seat position?

Best regards,
Ed and Sandra
 
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Be happy that you don't also have this problem
Ed and Sandra said:
Under what minimum conditions do these heat problems with the console and trunk appear? We have a late year production Black Raven 05 XLR and have driven it for 45 minutes in 100 degree temperatures (heat index 115) with the top down and neither the console nor the interior of the trunk felt the least bit "hot". In fact, the cold beer from the grocery in the trunk was still cool when we arrived home. What are we missing here? Yes, we're confused.

Best regards,
Ed and Sandra
 

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We are happy we've not experienced the problem, but don't understand what would make the difference. That's why we responded as we did. Perhaps we've not driven the XLR long enough at high enough temperatures (or perhaps speed has some bearing on the matter) to encounter what's been described. Very puzzling.

Best regards,
Ed and Sandra
 

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Hey I knew the position would not be popular, I just wonder about so many people talking about getting there money back. If your car didn't start and had to be towed 3 or 4 times, I understand. If they couldn't fix a safety problem, i.e. brakes or steering after 3 times, I understand. But please your bottled water gets hot! Give me a break. Let’s just say it was a design flaw that the car does not have enough insulation. If they won't fix it then either by some and have it installed or live with it. Every car, yes even the foreign have design flaws. I don't want to hear "at 80K we shouldn't have these problems". Your 80K car is no more or less important than the 15K Chevy that someone just bought. Its hard earned money being spent and the cost of the car and ones income should be relative. Bottled water being hot? What's next the wiper took 3 wipes instead of two to get rid of the bug?
As far as commenting in private, anything that is put out on this site for discussion is exactly that, out here in the public. If you don't want thoughts or opinions don't put it out there. Sorry I'm not going to jump on the GM hater’s band wagon, and for that you are not happy. MR STANDBY to make the comment “our NEW Upstate NY upstart" what does that have to do with anything? Upstart? Let’s continue to offer opinions but let’s not resort to names.
:nono
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
A further elaboration...

My FOB is not regognized to the extent that I have to actively unlock the vehicle most of the time---regardless of where I am; also, the seat memory positions are not recalled. Fortunately, as of yet the car has not failed to start outside my garage. Maybe as one reader suggested, it is the garage door bleeding frequencies and, yes, mine is rather old. But my fear is having to worry that the problem of not starting will manifest itself outside the garage; since it already malfunctions almost everywhere why should I not be concerned it won't start either? Having the keys locked in the car has me wary of that! Also, even if my garage door opener is a source of a problem, isn't it reasonable to assume that it is GM's FOB design since it does not happen with another car company's FOB system? Or that it could happen again if parked near somebody elses garage? Clearly, the problem cannot be pinned on my ancient door opener exclusively.
As for the seat being loose, in reviewing past messages in this Forum (I am a new subscriber) I see that others have had the same problem. Having owned over 40 cars and never having this annoying problem occur, is it unreasonable to think the seat jerking back, even slightly, should not be the norm? And even if GM does mystifyingly consider this "normal" since it does not happen in every XLR, why can't they just prevent it---or just fix it whenI give it to them??
And yes, by paying $70+K for a car it DOES entitle me to a quality level that surpasses those costing $15K . After all many luxury brands market their cars with those expectations.
In my opinion, the heat problem is a design flaw that should be ackowledged and corrected, but GM, and other manufacturers with customer experienced problems, will probably never admit it is one unless they have a fix for it---whereupon the recall notices will be sent. To me evidence of that is the loose seat explanation. Thanks for your responses to my issues.
 

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Weak battery?

My XLR started to intermitantly not recognize my fob after about 16 months of ownership. Although the car was not telling me that the fob battery was weak I replaced it anyway and the problem disappeared. Although yours is new this might be the problem. A simple fix, and worth a try - -
pob
 
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I ape this message. I to have changed my battery, a $2.95 fix after repeated none acknowledgement of the fob and having ON STAR open my car. It is working correctly now.

Bob

pob said:
My XLR started to intermitantly not recognize my fob after about 16 months of ownership. Although the car was not telling me that the fob battery was weak I replaced it anyway and the problem disappeared. Although yours is new this might be the problem. A simple fix, and worth a try - -
pob
 
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I stated my views on bashing someone you don't know and rest my case and will not get into a SHOUTING match with you. I guess I misspelled upstate.
upstate said:
Hey I knew the position would not be popular, I just wonder about so many people talking about getting there money back.
 

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I must be sitting under a lucky star. Have had two XLR's with 43,000 miles behind me, no hot spots, top works every time, seats don't slip or slide, when I drive into a dealer for oil changes I get fast service. must be my smile. :jester :flag
 

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We have an area here in town where several television and radio broadcast towers are located. It is a notorious area for causing key fobs of all varieties to fail just from the strength of the radiation.

Is it possible you have a cell tower or some form of high power radio source near your home?
 

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When we first got our XLR (9/03), we noticed some minor issues with the FOB but a new battery fixed it. Additionally, we mentioned another minor issue to our service dept., it took a few seconds for the passenger door to unlock after the driver's door, they said they have an update to the software and it is now perfect.
 

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The wise consider all...

upstate - I believe there is some wisdom in what you write - especially the troubleshooting advice about unplugging the garage door opener. But the tone of your post seems a little embittered (?) and cynical, for some reason. And I think that is what standby was picking up on.

Aside from that we've had no noticeable problems from heat build up in the trunk. The tranny hump gets a little warm, but it is similar to my C4 'vette.
 
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Very nicely put, i somtimes come out with two guns blazing if I feel someone is out of line. I"m not saying upstate was, I just feel that he was and I tried to put some honey on my feelings when admonishing him. Anyway it's over.........I hope

Thanks from one fly boy to another...BOY?

aviator said:
upstate - I believe there is some wisdom in what you write - especially the troubleshooting advice about unplugging the garage door opener. But the tone of your post seems a little embittered (?) and cynical, for some reason. And I think that is what standby was picking up on.

Aside from that we've had no noticeable problems from heat build up in the trunk. The tranny hump gets a little warm, but it is similar to my C4 'vette.
 

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Other Posts

There have been other threads about FOB, Heat and Seat moving.

FOB - I agree with battery change as a first step. I find that since I keep my keys in the left pants pocket (far away from antenna), that very soon after changing a battery (maybe 2 months), I get "Can't find FOB" message or it goes into Accvessory mode when turning off. Its more a problem if the pants have deep pockets and the keys drop way down to the side. Lifting the keys up above my thigh solves the problem. Never had trouble approaching the car and having the door open, this would have to be very low battery.

Heat - More of the post have had to do with heat in the console, but some have been about trunk in the past. I know there was a "fix" for the console heat, but never heard one about trunk. I haven't had problems with enough heat in trunk to melt anything, but have not really considered any trunk to be a climate controlled area.

Seat - Agree with checking the Driver 1 (and 2) Drive and Exit settings. I sometimes pick up FOB #2 and the setting are slightly different (even though they are both for me). The Seat, (mirrors, etc) settings do not activate until you start the car, so this is when the "shift" would occur. If the shift occurs when you move into drive and start forward, then it could be something else (a lose bolt).

Curious to hear about resolution. I will admit it has taken two trips sometimes to get a few things on my 2004 fixed, but with the right prompting, they usually do the right thing. Last trip, the even replaced the transaxel fluid, even though the couldn't reproduce the "grinding" that has been noted in other posts.

As a physician, I can tell you that "humans" and their symptoms are much the same. If we can't find anything to explain tyhe patient's symptoms, we often say "come back" or "tell me if it recurs or gets worse". Sometimes, there is just nothing to find or explain issue in complex mechanical (or biological) systems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
An update on my FOB issue

The dealer called me to tell me my car was "ready". Translation: We couldn't fix it 'cause we couldn't duplicate the problem. [Insert sigh here]
Thanks to all who wrote with their suggestions and since I have little other choice will replace the FOB battery soon. I am not hopeful it will solve anything since the car has not refused to start when I place the FOB in the mysterious slot in the glovebox, buttons facing out. That "slot" is not mentioned anywhere that I can find in the voluminous manual and I found out about it when a Cadillac rep suggested I try it.
Upon leaving the dealership I called Cadillac and to fast forward to the end it was decided that I was to call the dealer when in my garage and it won't start and have them come out to witness the situation. If they are available. My gut tells me the car refusing to start has something to do with the garage door opener and when I discussed that possibility with the nice Caddy rep and if Cadillac would replace the opener as was done in the past, she responded that it was a possibility, that all issues were handled on a case by case basis. So, if I were a betting man, I would guess that changing the battery and replacing the door opener will solve the mystery. Stay tuned.
Regarding the seat moving, it happens when the car starts from a dead stop, or the brakes are applied abruptly and has all the earmarks of a loose seat. The memory works fine. When I mentioned to the Caddy rep that this Forum has members whose seat is rock solid and others who also have the problem she said she will look into why GM states that the movement I am experience is normal. I am not hopeful anything will be done to correct this annoyance.
These experiences plus the obvious heat-in-the-trunk space problem and GM's head in the sand approach has convinced me to cancel my interest in the V model.
I want to love this car and indeed, still do much of the time. I guess it's like having the otherwise beautiful girlfriend with the wart on her chin -- you take the good with the bad.
 
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