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Discussion Starter #1
I just ordered custome 3 piece 20" wheels for my XLR with lowering bolts from the C6 vette, I am gonna put 245/35 up front and 275/30 on 20*9 front and 20*10 rears

I know this is smaller profile tire than the original size sidewall so I was wondering if it will look good once lowered and also how much difference in my odometer and speedometer will be noticed as the overall diametr is smaller by .03 and .05

I need you guys input as I have only 10 days before wheels arrive...

Also, any alignement required for the drop once the bolts are installed, the vette people have mixed feelings regarding this issue

Thanks guys
 

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xlr23 said:
I just ordered custome 3 piece 20" wheels for my XLR with lowering bolts from the C6 vette, I am gonna put 245/35 up front and 275/30 on 20*9 front and 20*10 rears

I know this is smaller profile tire than the original size sidewall so I was wondering if it will look good once lowered and also how much difference in my odometer and speedometer will be noticed as the overall diametr is smaller by .03 and .05

I need you guys input as I have only 10 days before wheels arrive...

Also, any alignement required for the drop once the bolts are installed, the vette people have mixed feelings regarding this issue

Thanks guys
Hi xlr23,
I also have mixed feelings about that! Bob, (standby) member of this forum who have the 20 foose rims on his XLR told me that his tires get sometimes touch with the body and now if you even lowering your car :confused :confused :confused

Hope for you it`ll work :yesnod

Hans



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xlr23
I have 245/35 and 275/30 on my XLR, but went with 20x 8.5 and 9.5.
This way the tire stands taller and I did not loose as much in the overall diameter, you are going to loose a lot more than .03 and .05. I do not have any noticable difference on my speedometer. Also that extra half inch width in the rear will not fit in the wheel well and will hang out the sides. There's not enough room on the inside due to the oversized trunk, unlike the vette. The tires won't clear the fender when compressed ....espically if you lower it.
I intend to lower mine as well, but you can get 1/2 to 3/4" lower with the stock adjustments, without installing the lowering bolts. I think that's about all I want to go. Allignment is a must, I'm told.

Here's a photoshop of my car lowered, I'll post the original photo as well.
 

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Getting 1/2 to 3/4 inch lower with stock adjustments turns me on. Can anyone give me better info on "stock adjustments"? :flag
 
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Jack,

Like Hans said, I went wider with my Foose rims and when I get on it from a standing start and it shifts into second, the tires hit the wheel wells for a split second.
Personally, I think you asking for trouble with the lowering bolts and I igree with 1_LXR that the stock adjustments looks good on his car. Looks like he has the same tires as me too.
Bob
jackewells said:
Getting 1/2 to 3/4 inch lower with stock adjustments turns me on. Can anyone give me better info on "stock adjustments"? :flag
 

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Bob,
you have 245 front and back if I remember correctly and if they they rub it's because the offset is not correct. I have 275 in the rear and no rubbing at all. You may want to get that checked.

Jack ,
there's a "trim adjustment" bolt at each end of the front and rear leaf springs. this raises and lowers the body. Normally they are adjusted somewhere midrange on the bolt, but you drop (or raise) 1/2 -3/4" by adjusting to the end of the bolt. For more adjustment this bolt is replaced with a longer one.

I have not lowered mine yet, but have room to do so.
1 or 2" with the lowering bolts would look great, but I wouldn't be able to get up my driveway.
 
G

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Leaky differential

One hour to late. Just came back from a free serivce coupon and check of all systems. Wish I would have known that sooner, as it was Allen that installed the tires and rims.

On another note, they tell me my differential is leaking, but made no suggestion about fixing it. Would that be covered under warrenty?

Annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd, would my dealer adjust that bolt to drop the body to it's lowest limit without giving me a lecture?
Bob
1_XLR said:
Bob,
you have 245 front and back if I remember correctly and if they they rub it's because the offset is not correct. I have 275 in the rear and no rubbing at all. You may want to get that checked.
 

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Leaky differential

Hi Bob

Look back to September 2004 Posted by Robin. That is when I had the leaking differential. And yes if was repaired under the warrenty.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Good points but how would they rub if its the correct offset and 10in wide on teh rear, we have a very high offset for the rear which makes it really a nasty small lip but still better than the stock 8" wide crap

I was gonna lower it to 1" about and since I have Nitto Nt555 the side walls are not straight but curved in so it allows for more clearance...I am not worried about my driveway but as far as the comment on rubbing in second gear can someone elaborate on tires used width and offset of wheel and speed at which this would occur

Thank you
 

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standby said:
Annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd, would my dealer adjust that bolt to drop the body to it's lowest limit without giving me a lecture?
Bob

:glol Dealer won't touch it!!
liability issues
 

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xlr23 said:
also 1_XLR, what offset are you using
sorry, don't know , it was custom fitted.
ended up with a 2" lip.
with 10" wheels if you have the correct offset to keep it from rubbing the inside pannel, the rest of the wheel will hang outside of the fender....there's only so much room in the wheel well. I don't think that's a very good look. They may or may not rub depending on the tire shape / \ and the cantaleiver effect, but as you lower it, that clearance will deminish. mine at 9.5" are right at the edge....if you get 10s to fit in there I'll be very surprised.
BTW who made your wheels?
 
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Before I drop it, I think I need to find out if my dealer has the right offset and if indeed the noise I'm hearing is the tire hitting the inner fender. I keep my tires at about 33 psi since I was told 38 was much to high, but I never noticed this noise until I lowered the psi to 33. With less air in my tires, the shift is probably squishing the tires and making them push out. This might be the reason but have no proof. I'm going to check the size of my tires and post to xlr23.Bob

1_XLR said:
:glol Dealer won't touch it!!
liability issues
 
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Thanks, Robin

Thanks Robiin. I will sugges to them that they repair this under warrenty and bring along the Septembe 04 post about the leak.BOB



Robin said:
Hi Bob

Look back to September 2004 Posted by Robin. That is when I had the leaking differential. And yes if was repaired under the warrenty.
 

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standby said:
I was told 38 was much to high,

38 COLD is too high since they will easily exceed 40psi when HOT
At 40+ the pressure sensors will activate and display "tire pressure too high" on the DIC
 
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Exacto mundo, exactly what happened to me.

Also 245/40 ZR pilot sport A/S Michelin's are on my vehicle. I will post this to xlr23 so he doesn't miss it.

1_XLR said:
38 COLD is too high since they will easily exceed 40psi when HOT
At 40+ the pressure sensors will activate and display "tire pressure too high" on the DIC
 
G

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xlr23,

I can give you some of the answer. My tires are 245/40 ZR Pilot Sport A/S Michelin's.
When I get on it and it shifts automatacilly into second I hear a growl when it sets down real hard in the back end, which leaves me to believe that one or both are hitting inside the fender wells. I'm going to have it checked out today and will get back to you. I'm not that concerned since I don't do that trick to often. There are no marks on the side walls on the outside, so I assume that it's hitting on the inside.
Bob

xlr23 said:
Good points but how would they rub if its the correct offset and 10in wide on teh rear, we have a very high offset for the rear which makes it really a nasty small lip but still better than the stock 8" wide crap

I was gonna lower it to 1" about and since I have Nitto Nt555 the side walls are not straight but curved in so it allows for more clearance...I am not worried about my driveway but as far as the comment on rubbing in second gear can someone elaborate on tires used width and offset of wheel and speed at which this would occur

Thank you
 
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Xlr23 & Robin

xlr,

You asked for some help, so here is as much as I & the dealer can give.

Took the baby to the dealers and put it up on the rack after taking the adviser for a test drive. Everyone there agrees that the rear end is squatting down when it hits that second gear and the tread of the tire is make a small but insignificant mark on the top of the wheel wells in the rear. This mostly happens when ramming it on a slight to moderate hill, which as you can see could cause inertia to push the rear end down further than on a flat service.
Bottom line: With the bigger tires and taking the adjustment to the limit, I think you will find out for yourself, but no matter, you can always adjust the bolt back until it doesn't rub. This hole thing is just trial and error.

Robin,
Indeed the rear end is under warranty and they will try to see where it is leaking and order the appropriate parts before tearing it down and leaving me waiting for O rings for a month. No drops on the stable epoxy flooring yet, but it would wipe up easy.
Thanks for the info from September 04 post. That helped a lot.
Bob
standby said:
xlr23,

I can give you some of the answer. My tires are 245/40 ZR Pilot Sport A/S Michelin's.
When I get on it and it shifts automatacilly into second I hear a growl when it sets down real hard in the back end, which leaves me to believe that one or both are hitting inside the fender wells. I'm going to have it checked out today and will get back to you. I'm not that concerned since I don't do that trick to often. There are no marks on the side walls on the outside, so I assume that it's hitting on the inside.
Bob
 

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Anybody think I might be able to get 22" in the rear by 9.5. The offset will be correct b/c it is getting custom made. The lip will be at 2.5" with 3" max if I push it and take a chance
 
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