Winter Storage Question - Cadillac XLR Forum: XLR and XLR-V Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
JDB
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Winter Storage Question

My 2006 XLR will be stored from December - March.
It will be covered, battery tender, full tank of gas with stabilizer in a heated garage.
Do you have any additional suggestions of things I need to do for proper storage?
The cadillac dealer said it is better to store it with the top up.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 10:48 PM
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Sounds like you have a pretty good storage plan. The Battery Tender will be your best ally.

When the top folds, it bends the hydraulic lines. Since you probably drive it more with the top up than down, I think storing it with the top up is a good idea and places less stress on the lines. Over time, they develop a memory so I would want mine to want to be as straight as possible, since that's their natural state of lay. (Hmmm, that doesn't sound right. . . ) From all of the owner reports I've read, if a hydraulic line breaks, it seems to happen more at one of the bends where it has a better chance of chaffing, not at a fitting.

Depending on where you live, humidity may be a problem. I used to live in Seattle, where you don't tan -you rust. I used a product in a motorhome (that was heated at all times when stored for the winter) that used granules that soaked up moisture, then disolved once saturated into a container. I had to replenish it about once a month, and the container held about four cups of water.

If it's dry where you're at, cracking the windows a bit (since you're car will be covered) can keep it from smelling up. I had mine stored for a year like that and still had to use a product from Griot's (Stinky Be Gone) that used chlorine gas or something to wipe out any and all microscopic life forms. The car was sterilized after one night and smelled pretty darn clean afterwards. Good stuff if you ever need it.

Give the leather a good cleansing and protect it prior to storage as well.

While you're at it, this is a great time to inspect/replace a major safety item: the lowly windshield wipers. I switched over to Bosch Icon wipers a few years ago; --if you ever hear of a better wiper, let me know. These things work exceptionally well. Long life and no missed sections of the glass. What more could you ask for in a wiper? They even have airfoils to ensure they stay pressed against the windshield. Very well thought out product and highly recommended.

Do inspect the drain in the trunk compartment prior to storage and every three months thereafter when driven regularly. You should be able to see the garage floor through the tube (or hole on later models.) This is the best advice I can give any XLR owner. It's quick, easy, free and can save you a small fortune in repair bills.

Before closing the top, apply protectant to all of the rubber seals. This includes the doors, rear decklid, windshield header and anything else you can get at. GM recommends Krytox which isn't cheap but works well. It's more of a lubricant, and great as a squeak suppressant, but it should keep the seals pliable and minimize any deterioration while it sits, waiting for you.

Some car fanatics like to store their cars on rounded blocks to keep the tires from developing flat spots. I'm not that far gone yet.

And obviously, you want to give it a painstaking wash, polish and if possible, clay it after the wash. When you pull the cover off (and it WILL slide easily after being clayed) in the Spring, it will still be beautiful and as ready to go as you are! I'm a Zaino fan, but there are plenty of other great cleaning products available.

I'm sure others may chime in with their tips. These worked great for me.

CC

Last edited by ccclarke; 09-10-2011 at 10:57 PM.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-08-2011, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccclarke View Post
Sounds like you have a pretty good storage plan. The Battery Tender will be your best ally.

When the top folds, it bends the hydraulic lines. Since you probably drive it more with the top up than down, I think storing it with the top up is a good idea and places less stress on the lines. Over time, they develop a memory so I would want mine to want to be as straight as possible, since that's their natural state of lay. (Hmmm, that doesn't sound right. . . ) From all of the owner reports I've read, if a hydraulic line breaks, it seems to happen more at one of the bends where it has a better chance of chaffing, not at a fitting.

Depending on where you live, humidity may be a problem. I used to live in Seattle, where you don't tan -you rust. I used a product in a motorhome (that was heated at all times when stored for the winter) that used granules that soaked up moisture, then disolved once saturated into a container. I had to replenish it about once a month, and the container held about four cups of water.

If it's dry where you're at, cracking the windows a bit (since you're car will be covered) can keep it from smelling up. I had mine stored for a year like that and still had to use a product from Griot's (Stinky Be Gone) that used chlorine gas or something to wipe out any and all microscopic life forms. The car was sterilized after one night and smelled pretty darn clean afterwards. Good stuff if you ever need it.

Give the leather a good cleansing and protect it prior to storage as well.

Do inspect the drain in the trunk compartment prior to storage and every three months thereafter when driven regularly. You should be able to see the garage floor through the tube (or hole on later models.) This is the best advice I can give any XLR owner. It's quick, easy, free and can save you a small fortune in repair bills.

Before closing the top, apply protectant to all of the rubber seals. This includes the doors, rear decklid, windshield header and anything else you can get at. GM recommends Krytox which isn't cheap but works well. It's more of a lubricant, and great as a squeak suppressant, but it should keep the seals pliable and minimize any deterioration while it sits, waiting for you.

Some car fanatics like to store their cars on rounded blocks to keep the tires from developing flat spots. I'm not that far gone yet.

And obviously, you want to give it a painstaking wash, polish and if possible, clay it after the wash. When you pull the cover off (and it WILL slide easily after being clayed) in the Spring, it will still be beautiful and as ready to go as you are! I'm a Zaino fan, but there are plenty of other great cleaning products available.

I'm sure others may chime in with their tips. These worked great for me.

CC
CC:

Why don't you make a Section and/or a Stickey on this topic?

There are lots of "snow birds" that may need. This info very shortly.



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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-26-2011, 06:50 PM
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Hey CC:

Having stored a car every winter since 1995 (Corvette and XLR), I'm curious about one thing I've seen in this post and another on this site. With the way gas is made today, why are people storing cars with a full tank - even with stabilizer? Why take the chance? I usually store mine with a minimal amount (5 gallons with stabilizer) so that I do not have to burn a whole tank of old, questionable quality gas in the Spring. I do try to run the car every week long enough to dry out the exhaust and keep everything moving and lubricated. If it needs more gas, I add it as needed through the winter. Am I missing something?

The battery tender is a must. I have noticed flat spots on the tires, but once I drive the car for a few miles and the tires heat up it goes away.

Jim
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-27-2011, 12:14 AM
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A great question Jim!

Long-term storage of a vehicle with a full tank of gas is a good idea. Any space above the fuel in the tank will have air in it. Air contains a lot of water vapor. See where I'm going with this? When it gets colder outside the tank than inside, water vapor in the air tends to condense. Water + Fuel= Bad.

Liquids with high vapor pressure at room temperature change significantly in vapor pressure with temperature. I'm sure you've seen a tightly-sealed metal gas can that was crunched spontaneously. The more vapor space above the gas, the greater the amount of fuel vapor and to prevent the fuel tank from collapsing the fuel cap has a vacuum breaker. When the ambient temperature drops, negative pressure is created and air goes into tank, along with water vapor. Over months of storage, this cycle repeats, introducing condensation into tank. Also, the larger volume of space above the fuel creates greater exposure to oxygen and with a small volume of gas, the relative amount of oxygen per gallon of gas is significantly more, promoting oxidation, which causes gumming.

Like the Corvette, the XLR uses plastic fuel tanks, so tank rust really isn't an issue. Fuel contamination is more of a concern. Top tier fuel stabilizers shouldn't degrade the quality of the gas --as long as good quality gas was in the tank when the stabilizer was added.

Having stored my XLR for half of 2009 and almost all of 2010, I prepped it by filling the tank, adding fuel stabilizer, and driving a few miles to ensure it was mixed with the fuel delivery system and gas sitting in the tank. With the car on jackstands, a flannel cover in place, and a Battery Tender connected, it was ready to go when I was finally able to get it from storage.

Hope this helps,

CC

Last edited by ccclarke; 11-27-2011 at 10:14 PM.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-27-2011, 07:06 AM
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CC:

Wow, thanks for the detailed explaination - much appreciated. It makes sense now.

Jim
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-04-2011, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccclarke View Post
A great question Jim!

Long-term storage of a vehicle with a full tank of gas is a good idea. Any space above the fuel in the tank will have air in it. Air contains a lot of water vapor. See where I'm going with this? When it gets colder outside the tank than inside, water vapor in the air tends to condense. Water + Fuel= Bad.

[snip]

CC
I endorse exactly what CC has to say. This is why I advised that that first spring journey should be planned to be a little longer (if possible) so as to have enough space to get fresh gas in (in reasonable quantity) as soon as possible. (https://www.xlrforum.com/showthread.php?t=7734) The stabilizer will do a lot, but it can't fix everything, especially loss of octane. Try also to visit a retailer with a high turn over, both when you store and at that first fill in spring, so the gas you pump in is as fresh (= long lasting) as possible.

Last edited by xlrlist01; 12-04-2011 at 02:18 PM.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-26-2012, 11:55 AM
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I couldnt figure what to post this under so i apologize. My bosses are trying to get me to start drivin a mercedes now that i've been promoted a couple of times. My fear is a salesman driving a luxury car looks arrogant and i'll lose alot of my blue collar clients. i'm feelin that a cadillac still works for the workin man, and i'm a big fan besides. what model do you all think would be ok in this situation. please get back to me.
Thanks in advance
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