Im am getting a too cold for top operation mesasage the top wont go up trunck doesn`t work and its 80 here so its not too cold

There's a thermistor that measures the temp (I believe it's integral to the pump) and will prevent the top from operating if it thinks the pump is too hot or cold. I'll double-check it's location tonight.

Your dealer's Tech 2 scan tool can verify the thermistor's condition faster than I can type this post. If it is inside the pump, it is replaced as a unit (about $1600 for the pump, plus labor.) Should it come to that, you can buy the pump from gmpartsdirect for about 40% off and have the dealer do the install, which would bring the total to less than the price of the pump's MSRP. Sometimes, you can get a dealer to meet their prices for parts, since it's real close to what they pay anyway. Depends on the dealer.

I'll post back later on the thermistor and it's location if someone doesn't beat me to it.

CC :seeya

I just verified the thermistor location as being inside the pump assembly. Since it's part of a protection circuit (kind of like a re-settable fuse, only thermally-controlled) it's not going to let the pump be commanded to the ON state until that issue is cleared up. It could be something as minor as an open in the thermistor circuit, a bad FTC module, or as bad as a blown termistor --which in all likelihood means you're gonna need a new hydraulic pump. I just dug my old (bad) pump out of my spares box, and removed the black, plastic motor cover on the bottom (the reservoir is on top when you look at in in the car) which exposes the two-wire thermistor connector that goes into the harness for the pump assembly. If you can see the pump connector that plugs into the folding top control module, you'll note a pair of tan and grey wires on one side--those come from the thermistor. 5 volts goes to it (thru the grey wire) and as the temperature changes in the pump, the voltage drop across (and current through) the thermistor varies as well. The connector is located outboard of the pump and is kept together with a blue bale that needs to be rotated 90 degrees for the connector halves to de-mate.

A trip to the dealer is warranted to verify where the problem is located; it won't take them long to determine what's failing. I sure hope it isn't the thermistor. One last thing: Ensure your battery is fully charged; the top can become psychotic if regular electroshock therapy isn't administered. Keep us posted.

CCC

Almost forgot: If you have to get a new hydraulic pump and decide to order it yourself, you'll need an o-ring kit as well.

When the hydraulic hoses are removed from the manifold, the o-rings need to be replaced.

If the dealer ends up doing the job, remind them to order the kit so you don't have to have the car in the shop longer than necessary while waiting for more parts.

So in short: you need to make a date with your dealer's Service Department; this isn't something you can likely fix in your garage.

CCC :seeya

Well doesn`t look good its been at the dealer for two going on three days they say it could be the pump or control modual or both they are saying over $4000 in parts ????? where do I get the parts at this discounted price

Start with gmpartsdirect.com. You'll pay less than half of the $4000 parts price the dealer is quoting.

CC :seeya

The top stopped working on my 2005 when it was about half-way up. Starting and stopping the cycle operation got it up and locked.
Car only has 20,000 miles and is on GMPP.
Took it to local Cadillac Dealer(Holloway, Portsmouth, NH)and it was quickly diagnosed as a bad hose for the top fluid. Took a couple of days to find a new one, and determine which fluid was compatible.(Ended up with Saab fluid. Opinion is that since ASC makes both top mechanisms, it will work ok.)
Always had good service results at Holloway, a very knowledgeable tech and helpful service writer.
Hope the fix takes for the rest of the summer. Weather's too nice not to have the top down.
Ed Blake

After much research I found that the Saab fluid is compatable to the SSR. I still have half of a bottle in case my XLR ever needs a sip. good luck, Jack

A thermister is a variable resistor that is varied by the amount of heat it sees. It's a very cheap device made expensive by what it is made an integral part of. If you know a good electrician or electronics technician, they should be able to bypass or mimic the thermister in question using the two wires described in a previous reply by inserting a variable resistor in the circuit to acheive the voltage the system is looking for. It would be a LOT less expensive than the $4K from the dealer. What do you have to lose??

I've had two problems with my XLR. A broken actuator rod for the driver side rear folding window and a broken hinge on the cup holder door. The dealer wanted almost $1,500.00 for the parts alone. They said I would have to get the entire assembly. The cup holder assembly alone is over $900.00. I repaired both problems myself for a total outlay of exactly $20.00.

If your problem is indeed the thermister, I think it can be verified and corrected by a competent electrical or electronics geek. Go to your dealer and see if they will print out the applicable electrical curcuit for reference. My dealer has done this for me several times.

Good luck