I have a 05 xlr with 15,000 miles on it. The trunk and top would not go up. the only way I could get it to go up was to press the trunk lid button and help lift the trunk up. When i took it in they had another 05 in with the same problem. They have to replace the whole power unit. It is still under warranty now but i am wondering how many others are having this problem. Have they made improvements to the pump? I understand the replacement units are around 2k.:cry

I have a 05 xlr with 15,000 miles on it. The trunk and top would not go up. the only way I could get it to go up was to press the trunk lid button and help lift the trunk up. When i took it in they had another 05 in with the same problem. They have to replace the whole power unit. It is still under warranty now but i am wondering how many others are having this problem. Have they made improvements to the pump? I understand the replacement units are around 2k.:cry
FIRST

WELCOME TO THE FORUM!!

We hope you enjoy the friendships you wil make, and will attend some of the events.

ANSWER TO YOUR QUESTION:

Yes there have been many top issues. Most are discussed in the Technical Section under TOP as you have posted this message.

You should be able to see all of the history posts there. If not go to the bottom of the screen and change the pull down window to The Begining from the default 75 days.

If you need any help just let me know.

Regards

Jerry

I have a 05 xlr with 15,000 miles on it. The trunk and top would not go up. the only way I could get it to go up was to press the trunk lid button and help lift the trunk up. When i took it in they had another 05 in with the same problem. They have to replace the whole power unit. It is still under warranty now but i am wondering how many others are having this problem. Have they made improvements to the pump? I understand the replacement units are around 2k.:cry

I doubt that it is the pump assembly. Unless they are badly overheated, the pumps rarely fail. I would imagine you and the other '05 have another problem. Most likely a top position sensor. If the FTCM sees a fault, it will not let the top or decklid operate.

Bruce

I don't think anything overheated. I am just going by what the dealer is telling me.

Sounds like the same symptoms I had with my top a few months back. I had a bad pump and Top Position sensor. The pump lists for something like $1534, but I bought one from gmpartsdirect.com and paid about $600 less. The dealer installed the pump and recalibrated the top.

The previous post regarding the pump's durability/reliability is valid. There are five solenoid valves on the manifold attached to the pump that are more likely to fail, so you pay big bucks for the solenoids by having to replace the whole assy.


If you buy the part (pump) yourself you'll also need an o-ring kit (P/N 89024071 $42.68).

I kept the old pump to re-use one of the four good solenoids should the need arise.

..... Now if I can justify the expense of buying a Tech II scan tool ($3k!!!)

Good luck!

CC :cheers

TESTIFY!!!

I'd LOVE to buy a Tech II, and I look on eBay all the time, but the prices are still too rich for my blood! Don't forget, if you do buy a Tech II you'll also need the CANdi interface.

There is a cheaper ($800) scan tool (on eBay again) that might mimick a Tech 2 and it even has the CANdi (Controller Area Network diadnostic interface) interface. I may investigate this in a few years (when my warranty wears out and when the CANdi network is required on all new cars).

The top on my 12,020 mile 2006 V wouldn't go up last week...which can be a real problem in Florida where the weather can change in 5 minutes. Dealer replaced the PUMP KIT and a MODULE (about $1900 in parts!)

Glad it wasn't raining because the manual indicates a 20 step process to get the top up!

Dealer also checked out my brakes which they said are fine but they sure do squeal a lot. Is this common?

One thing that really bothered me was that I had to get tough on the service writer when he refused to change the oil (complimentary every 12 months and due in December!). Was I out of line to press him for this? An oil change seems like such a small thing to keep a customer happy. Yes, it did save me a trip next month; but it also saved GM the cost of another rental!).

I still have 2+ years of warranty but wondering if I should start shopping now for the extended warranty...do the costs go up on this plan as you near the end of your basic warranty?

Otherwise this car has been pretty reliable.

Well I picked the car up today and it was the pump assembly on both cars. The guy said he is doing quite a few now considering how few XlRs are around. They have an assembly in stock. Interestingly i also toasted a tire on the way to get my roof fixed, ran over a chuck of steel. Took almost two weeks for them to get a tire.

The top on my 12,020 mile 2006 V wouldn't go up last week...which can be a real problem in Florida where the weather can change in 5 minutes. Dealer replaced the PUMP KIT and a MODULE (about $1900 in parts!)

Glad it wasn't raining because the manual indicates a 20 step process to get the top up!

Dealer also checked out my brakes which they said are fine but they sure do squeal a lot. Is this common?

One thing that really bothered me was that I had to get tough on the service writer when he refused to change the oil (complimentary every 12 months and due in December!). Was I out of line to press him for this? An oil change seems like such a small thing to keep a customer happy. Yes, it did save me a trip next month; but it also saved GM the cost of another rental!).

I still have 2+ years of warranty but wondering if I should start shopping now for the extended warranty...do the costs go up on this plan as you near the end of your basic warranty?

Otherwise this car has been pretty reliable.

Your XLR Premium care offers you the Scheduled Maintenance under warranty. The oil and filter should be changed at when the "Change Oil Light" comes on or at 10,000 miles or at 12 months, which ever comes first. To get a good look at the premium care, simply go to XLR PREMIUM CARE (http://cadillac-xlr.com/_wsn/page9.html) and print it out and keep it in your glove box if needed.

Due to the metallic pads, you will get a slight squeal on a initial brake depression or during braking if you tend to use a softer foot. I tell my clients for the best brake life, use a firmer amount of presure for a shorter duration. As a side benefit, it will usually be much quieter.

www.Cadillac-XLR.com (http://www.Cadillac-XLR.com)

Thanks
Allen

Here's one of many links for the correct scan tool.

http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/OTC-3646.html

As you can see, its pricey and tough to justify that kind of expense vs trips to the dealer vs how long I keep the car(s) (--it will work on both my cars, but the CTS-V never seems to have any issues, unlike the XLR.) I've seen the same setup on eBay for $3k.

CCC :cheers

After finally getting my top working correctly every time (one switch replacement and two sensors)... now I have a hose leak. When the top comes up to the closed position, I have hydraulic oil shooting out toward the rear window from the right headliner area about where the door meets the quarter window. My collision repair diagram (also the dealer's diagram) shows the only hose running along the roof line being on the left side, this hose being the header latch hose. Is there a hose that runs along the right roof line or is the diagram showing the hose on the wrong side?
thanks, I just want to make sure I order the correct hose...
mtrocket

mtrocket:

I THINK somebody else had this occur awhile ago. the posting may be in the Top Area.

I would bet you already considered it but is there any way to put pressure on it while the top is in a position where you can see where it is comming from??

mtrocket:

I THINK somebody else had this occur awhile ago. the posting may be in the Top Area.

I would bet you already considered it but is there any way to put pressure on it while the top is in a position where you can see where it is comming from??

I will do a thread search to see what I can find.
I don't believe I can as it ONLY blows fluid when the top is completely up and (I believe) the latches are operating. I am 99% sure the hose in question is the top latch hose... comes as a kit from GM with both hoses included. I never get the "top not secure" in my DIC so I am pretty sure the latches are still operating, just want to get it taken care of before the leak gets too big and the latches stop working.
thanks...

My 2004 top pump and module have just been diagnosed as needing replacement at a cost of $2300. At 80,000 miles it is out of warranty. Do any of you know if there is a recall on this?

bumbleent

No recalls for those parts. You are experiencing "normal wear and tear." Somehow, GM made it through 22,000+ tests during initial testing. Buy your OEM parts online and have the dealer do the installation and save big bucks.

CC :cheers

My 2004 top pump and module have just been diagnosed as needing replacement at a cost of $2300. At 80,000 miles it is out of warranty. Do any of you know if there is a recall on this?

bumbleent
Even though times are tough for GM, I would ask for some financial help from Cadillac customer support center. They may atl east cover some of the expense. But in my assessment it's worth the try.

Good luck

Does anyone know if the replacement units are an upgrade or the same unit? How about the pressure the pump works at? I am very suprised we are having any issues with these units. It's very uncomon to see a power steering
unit fail and it running when ever the car is turned on. These units see such infrequent use. I have managed to get a failed unit and I am in the fluid power business. I will dissect this baby if it will come apart and see what is failing.

My replacement part number was the same as the original. To check for an upgraded part, query the online parts list at gmdirect.com with a newer year model to see if the part number changes. As for pressure, couldn't tell you; the only way I could check would be to place a gauge on a manifold output, enable the proper solenoid port and apply power to the pump.

I checked my failed pump assembly and found one of the five solenoids were bad. The pump was fine. Unfortunately, you have to replace the entire assembly. At least I have some spare parts to draw from if I ever experience any problems again. (Knock on wood. . . ) There isn't much to it. A reservoir, pump, distribution manifold and solenoid valves to direct the hydraulic flow when commanded by the control module. A slick little unit, but like anything mechanical, it can fail. --Made in the Netherlands, by the way.

CCC

The fried solenoid was the whole cause of your failure? Can we find a source for these solinoids. I see you said the unit comes from the netherlands. How about the solenoids. Do they have any id on them?

No markings of any kind on the solenoids.

CCC

I was going to replace hoses 51 &52 myself, but the service manual says you need a BO-47666 Hose Retainer Ring Installer to replace a hose. Has anyone ever replaced or had a hose replaced and is the tool really necessary? I know sometimes the correct tool just makes the job easier, but the tool is not a necessity. After looking at the 6 pages of directions in the manual, I'm thinking about just taking it to the XLR tech here in Billings rather than tackle this job myself, so I called the Cadillac dealership here in Billings and the service writer told me they have never done one, so now I'm not sure I want to take it there either. Does anyone know about how long this job should take? Or maybe could run the lines and just have the dealership hook them up using the tool, if they would do that. Or maybe I could wait until May and have it done in Denver while on the way to the XLR Rendezvous in San Antonio ?
thanks

I decided to have this problem taken care of at Red Noland Cadillac in Colorado Springs on the way to San Antonio in May... apparently James (the XLR tech) has replaced 4 sets in the last 3 months, the last being on an '08. Could be an issue for other owners to have checked??

Rob:

Good call I think. I asked my XLR Specialist about the tool and he said "it ain't an easy thing to do".

It is odd the range of model years that are affected and yet it doesn't seem to be a common problem.

Had the hydraulic lines in the roof, on the passenger side of the car burst. Dealer can't find. Any ideas? I'm refusing to take my car back till it's fixed.

Dealer can't find what? Hydraulic lines 51 & 52 run up the passenger side and split before arriving at the header latch.

CC

Sorry. Part isn't available. And every time he has to order something it takes weeks. I need to know where to find it. Also, I was able to source from a wreck on ebay. Dealer says I need a "special tool" to remove from the pump. I'm an equipment mechanic, so I can't imagine what "special tool" I wouldn't have. Any truth?

I had the leak on my 06 about 2 months ago. Leak was where the big front section of the top meets the middle peice. Tech said the lines were not installed in the retaining clip properly at the factory. Took about 3 weeks to get the new lines. Doug-J

You can order the hose kit from gmpartsdirect.com for $85.53. Each hose has a retaining clip where it connects to the applicable cylinder and requires a special tool (BO-47666 Hose Retainer Ring Installer.) You can probably figure a way to remove/install the clips yourself.

Your dealer should be able to have parts overnight delivered for just about anything for this car. I've never had a problem getting parts for mine, but I've heard plenty of horror stories from others whose dealers were unable to come up with a part in a timely manner.

gmpartsdirect isn't always the fastest, but their prices are hard to beat. I hope this helps.
CC :cheers

Thanks. How long does it usually take? I can't find a number to call.

Thanks. How long does it usually take? I can't find a number to call.

I agree with ccclarke, www.GMPartsDirect.com is the source I always use and they've never failed me in having a part and having the best price.

I don't know about a phone number, but if you can't find the part in their online catalog, you can use their e-mail at customerservice@gmpartsdirect.com for pretty dang fast and good service. If you e-mail them, they'll get you a part number and I presume they can tell you when you'd have it in your hands.

HTH,

Jay

Hi guys. I have a 06 with 50,000 miles on it. Had some friends over to the shop the other night-- my son lowered the roof, and when he went to put it back up, the hose on the right side started leaking the boy said there is a crack in it. Is it easy to replace the line?? I understand the hoses come in a kit. I have phoned the dealer in but have not heard back from them. Does anyone know what part # the kit is?? What type of hydraulic oil is in the system and where do I check the level??
Thanks Jim

Hi guys. I have a 06 with 50,000 miles on it. Had some friends over to the shop the other night-- my son lowered the roof, and when he went to put it back up, the hose on the right side started leaking the boy said there is a crack in it. Is it easy to replace the line?? I understand the hoses come in a kit. I have phoned the dealer in but have not heard back from them. Does anyone know what part # the kit is?? What type of hydraulic oil is in the system and where do I check the level??
Thanks Jim
Jim:

Welcome to the XLR Forum.

You will find a lot of information here about your XLR and your specific problem. Unfortunately there are a few who have experienced a broken top hose. I don't have to tell you it's messy. The oil is expensive ($75) and is available at your Cadillac dealer and the repair can be done by you.

I am wondering if you really have 50k miles or hopefully are just under that amount so the factory warranty can pay for the fix. Also if you are just under 50k and under the expiration date for the warranty, get the GMPP warrranty now!!! It will cover the top.

ALSO, please go to the Technical Section and under TOP you will fin most all of the postings on your delimma.

Please let us know how this turns out for you.

Regards

Jerry

Jim,

Go to gmpartsdirec.com to locate the specific hose. The hoses need new O-rings as well. A shop manual is a must if you plan to tackle this yourself.

:cheers CC

Thanks for the getting back to me guys. The hose leak is on the right side in the post area. Is the shop manual available through anyone other than the dealer?? I searched the site and was unable to find the technical tab. Thanks again for you help guys!!!
Jim

Thanks for the getting back to me guys. The hose leak is on the right side in the post area. Is the shop manual available through anyone other than the dealer?? I searched the site and was unable to find the technical tab. Thanks again for you help guys!!!
Jim

Shop manuals are available from Helm or can be found on eBay. Take lots of pictures of the hydraulic line routing before removing it for replacement. Ensure it matches the routing depicted in the shop manual.

There are Min/Max fill lines on the hydraulic reservoir in the trunk compartment.

There's a whole section devoted to the Folding Top on this site that should answer most of your questions.

CC :cheers

FWIW:

I was over at my dealer yesterday talking with some of the technicians I know. I mentioned that there seemed to be a increase in top fluid leaks being reported on this site.

They took the time to show me on my XLR what to look for to identify potential issues before a leak occurs by doing a quick visual inspection as preventive maintenance.

THE PROCESS

If you raise the top until the wing window on the right side is above the fender line and the top is partially folded in peparation to go into the trunk, you will see a small black hose where the top hinge is. The correct one which hasn't been replaced yet has a loosly coiled spring at the folding area.

Visually inspect the hose to be sure it isn't in the path of the top hinge and that there is a small amount of slack in it. You may also notice that inside the spring the hose seems to be partially flat from the folding process. This is apparantely normal and isn't an issue.

Also visually follow the hose down into the trunk to be sure it is secured properly and away from any edges or folding areas.

IF the hose has been replaced--The new hoses are smaller than the origional ones AND there isn't a spring "protector" included in the new kit. (I would want to save the old spring and have it reinstalled around the new smaller hose anyway).

So in conclusion, if you see any wear areas or other issues you need to replace the hose ASAP before the "leak" mess occurs. (I can only imagine what a mess it causes).

Regards

Jerry

Jerry
I have been reading the postings on the hose leak issues. I do leave my top down in the garage for maybe two weeks at a time . Now you have me wondering if this is a good idea? I do imagine with the top down the hoses are in a more compromised position. Do you think this top down for long periods would tend to lessen the life of the parts? Just a thought.
Bob:nono

I don't think that you wil have a problem.

BTW: I leave mine down a lot in the garage as well.

Regards

Jerry

Where are you in WA?

CCC

Where are you in WA?

CCC

Close to Olympia... Where are you located? I think I saw you say something like Tacoma?

I'm all over the place. I live in Sacramento and store my car in Puyallup. When my house deal goes through here, I'll bring it down.

McCann in Tacoma is competant and the GM dealer in Bremerton has done great work on my car in the past. Both have XLR techs. Bellevue was prone to perform re-work, so I wouldn't recommend them.

If you operated the pump with the hydraulic bypass valve in the wrong position, it could have been damaged.

If the line-up is correct, the hydraulic fluid level is good, (no need to prime, it's a closed system) and the fuses are good, you need schematics to check voltage at the pump, at a minimum. Honestly, the fastest way to troubleshoot this is to go to your dealer and have them check it with a Tech 2. The diagnostic takes all of three minutes to run and will cycle the valves on the manifold, run the pump in both directions and verify the switches are in the proper (raised or lowered) position. It's so easy, a caveman can do it, so there isn't much that they can charge for labor or screw up in the process. If the pump isn't operating, (which is what it sounds like from the symptoms you've described) it either isn't getting voltage, being commanded to energize, or it's kaput. If DoA, your repair bill will be real ugly. The pump sells for over $1500 + labor. Hopefully, it won't be that, but if it is, buy one from gmpartsdirect and you'll save enough to cover the labor and a hotel room for the night up North while it's installed, if you have no faith in your local dealer.

Stupid question: Are the prereqs for top operation met? (Valet sw disabled, luggage divider in place, windows indexed. . . )

Hope this helps.