Hello everyone,

My name is Greg and this is my first post. I just received my 2004 XLR today. My mother passed away and she had this in the garage with 15k miles on it. However, I know she had a lot of problems with it over the years. I have experienced yet another. The car won't start. I had to have it towed. I know it has been sitting for a few months. The battery is somewhat new. it has been sitting. Connected a good battery, did the same thing. All the doors/trunk/lights work. it detects the fob. The push start bottons light up. the green circle the acc and off i think. The windows, radio, etc all work. When I press the brake while in park and press the green start, the whole car shuts off. and sometimes hear a clicking in the center dash. Also, sometimes while im trying to start, the whole panel lights (speed guage, gas gauge, etc) will max out then go back down to acc on. then I puch the green botton (with brake pushed) and it all shuts off.

What can be the issue. My step father took it to cadillac 8 months ago and it checked out perfect. sat in the garage since now. he started maybe 1-2 times. Am i missing something.

PLEASE HELP!

FIRST---Welcome to the XLR Forum.

You will realy enjoy your mothers car!!! You can read thorough some of the posts here in the various technical sections and get yourself up to speed fairly quickly on what needs attention.

I recommend that you spend a few $$$ of your own and pay Cadillac to do the XLR Certification process on the car which includes updating all of the software--etc...

They won't offically Cadillac Certify the car but at least the process and steps were followed to ensure that you have the latest in everything covered.

There are some factory recalls that you should make sure were done (no charge to you).

Also, the best way to ensure that all of this is up to speed is to request Cadillac to run you a service history on the car. It shouldn't cost you anything.

Please keep us up to date on your progrees and feel free to ask for guidance on issues that you would like more information on. You will find that "CC" is one of our most technical members and always has answeres to all of the most difficult questions.

Above all enjoy the car. It is a lot of fun.

You need to get your (new) batterty load tested. More than likely it wasn't fully charged when you got it and just needs a good slow trickle charge to make things work.

Of course you could just get another new battery and go from there.

Regards

Jerry

Hello,

thanks for welcoming me to the forum. So, is it probably the battery? The (new) battery I tested was in a weird way. when the car wounldn't start I tried to charge it for awhile with not luck. when I tried the other battery, I just connected jumper cables from the car battery (that had been still for months) to another battery sitting on the ground. Hit the start and nothing. the car was already taken to cadillac for all the updates about 8 months ago and a got a full inpection. everything was perfect.

thanks

Hello everyone,

My name is Greg and this is my first post. I just received my 2004 XLR today. My mother passed away and she had this in the garage with 15k miles on it. However, I know she had a lot of problems with it over the years. I have experienced yet another. The car won't start. I had to have it towed. I know it has been sitting for a few months. The battery is somewhat new. it has been sitting. Connected a good battery, did the same thing. All the doors/trunk/lights work. it detects the fob. The push start bottons light up. the green circle the acc and off i think. The windows, radio, etc all work. When I press the brake while in park and press the green start, the whole car shuts off. and sometimes hear a clicking in the center dash. Also, sometimes while im trying to start, the whole panel lights (speed guage, gas gauge, etc) will max out then go back down to acc on. then I puch the green botton (with brake pushed) and it all shuts off.

What can be the issue. My step father took it to cadillac 8 months ago and it checked out perfect. sat in the garage since now. he started maybe 1-2 times. Am i missing something.

PLEASE HELP!

That sounds like a dead battery. As I have discovered, a sulfated battery can pass load tests even, but can do the exact thing that has happened to you. I had good voltage, good load test battery, but on pressing the green start, there is silence and then after a few seconds the dash goes through the self test etc. Still no running motor though.

Fit a new battery if at all possible would be my advice. It should jump start OK and after a decent charge you might be in luck. XLRs have a modest parasitic load which will kill off the battery unless driven regularly a reasonable distance, like 40-50 miles a week. Otherwise use a battery tender.

From my experience, with the problem battery fitted, the odometer does not come on and show for a few seconds after switch off, a clue that there is a battery fault being reported to you by your XLR. Under normal circumstances the odometer will display for a short while after you turn the engine off, even after you open the door.

Note, if your battery is sulfated, it can't reliably be properly restored, no matter what you might read about sulfation on the web.

HTHs

Remember if you try and jump or charge a battery that is sitting directly on the cement garage floor you will be out of luck. It causes a dead ground. So put it on a piece of wood first.

If you current battery is bad it should be under warranty. So maybe you can just switch it out for a new one.

Pleaese let us know how this comes out for you.

Regards

thanks for the helpful posts. So, today I went to pop the hood to have the battery tested and nothing worked. the doors won't even open. I figured due to this it prop ios the battery. I used my key to pop the trunk then door. Took it to get tested and test at 3.5 volts. I have charged it yesterday. this is actually a battery that was purchased for car in sept 2009 and then sat for months. The place is doing a full charge to see if the battery is bad. If so, they are going to replace it. I really hope this is it

This post is pretty symptomatic of a bad battery. If the suspect battery is really low and you jumper across it in parallel, the good battery is going to see a load from the bad one, and lower your output voltage as well. The best way to have checked it out would have been to remove the suspect battery from the circuit altogether.

Today's batteries are fine on concrete surfaces. The plastic case acts as an insulator; if there were a ground path through the case, it would short between the terminals. This is an old wive's tale that has been repeated so often, people believe it.

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090222212857AAuaTyL

http://www.plasmaboyracing.com/blog/?p=158

However, batteries are not fine sitting idly in XLRs. If the car sits for more than two weeks, a battery tender (or minder) is recommended to prevent the issues described in this post.

Congrats on the new car! As mentioned, read all the posts relating to '04 issues. Update your software, and I challenge you to try to wipe that smile off your face as you drive around!

CC :seeya

so, I took the battery out of the xlr, took it in to be charged and checked. They said it held the charge and tested at 12+ volts. They also said if the battery was dead or had a dead cell, it wouldn't have held the charge. I took it home, put in the xlr. All the ACC work again but no turn over. Everything still shuts off when I press the brake and hit start.

What can the clicking noise be? Sometimes when I hit the start button I hear a clicking sound in the dash above the radio. Also I hear the clicking sometimes when I just press the brake before I hit start. Any ideas? Can the battery still be bad? I thought I read somewhere about reseting the Fob. Is that something that has to be done? This is so weird.

thanks

As stated before, a sulfated battery can pass all kinds of tests except the "ignition test." Have you tried using (only) the "good" battery that sat on the shelf?

I'll hit the books and see what I can come up with in the meantime.

CC :cheers

Unless the battery is 100% eliminated as the source of the fault, none of the following may be of much use. Empty text fields aren't much use either, so I'll add a little more.

The starting sequence begins with your finger pressing the Start switch, sending a signal that wakes up the Body Control Module. (Sounds like a passage from a personal robotic Kama Sutra manual, I know. . . )

The BCM ensures the brake pedal is depressed and the registered fob has made its presence known. The BCM grounds the control side of the RUN/CRANK relay, allowing copious amounts of electrons to rush out of the battery though the RUN 3 fuse, through the RUN/CRANK relay contacts and ECM fuse to the hot side of the Crank Relay Coil. The BCM also sends a START request over the GMLAN bus to the ECM.

The ECM verifies the transmission selector is in Neutral or Park. If this sequence works, (and it sounds like it is for you) the ECM grounds the control side of the CRANK relay, closing the CRANK relay switch side, allowing said electrons to flow toward the starter, allowing it to become very excited, and tickle the engine so much that it turns over. (The trons go through the Starter fuse to the CRANK relay switch and on to the Starter Solenoid.) Without making a personal appearance, I can't tell if the Starter Solenoid is active or not.

The clicking you're hearing from the direction of the hood may be one of the relays. They can get real chatty when their electrical paths aren't stable.

Check your battery connections, fuses and relays. If you want to verify if a relay being energized or is clicking/chattering, have an assistant place a finger on top of it as you try to start the vehicle. The location of the fuses/relays are in your owner's manuals.

Again, a fully-operational battery is the first step towards XLR Nirvana. :yesnod

For you Tech 2 afficianados out there, the status of all these components is displayed, making life much easier than the old days.

Time for beer. Keep us posted.

CC :cheers

I should be getting a new battery tomorrow. I took it back to autozone where I bought it 8 months ago. They tested it again and stated it was running anything i needed. lol I finally talked him into giving me another under warrenty. Then could find the warrenty in the computer. Suppose to go back tomorrow. Might have to buy it.

How can I tell if a relay is bad or not. If it clicking, it probably bad??? I was looking at the fuses today and had no idea if they were good or not.

Greg,

Morale-boosting PM sent.

Sleep fast; pound on Autozone's door before opening. Install new battery and let us know what happens. The XLR world waits and wonders. . .


No offence meant, but if you're unsure of how to check a fuse, me trying to explain the operation of a relay may unintentially blow a head gasket, and I don't need that kind of guilt on my already overburdened conscience. You've had enough of a day already. Let's take it slow and see what happens with a fresh battery under the hood.

CC :cheers

Well CC usually does this but.... be sure the battery connections are tight at both ends.

Also be sure the cold cranking amps are at or above the new specs for the car.

Regards

One more thing. I noticed when all this is going on and I hit the start botton, the car shuts down and I see an orange engine light come up. that is the only light that is up on the panel when the car shuts down. does that mean something else other than the battery?

CC may cover this in his PM to you but before you chase anything else, you want to know with cetainty that:

1. You have good power from the correct battery. Call the dealer parts department and ask them to look up what the correct size and cranking power should be for your car. It was "upped" since the car was first produced.

2. The connections are tight on both ends.

If this is correct then the car will start and you can move to other issues--most all of those though will resolve themselves with the correct battery installed.

Once you get through this stuff you need to get a Battery Tender and bring the battery up to full charging power via an overnight charge. Then use it periodically to top it off.

Regards

So, I got my new battery today. same one. duralast... 590 cold cranking amps. 735 cranking amps. any idea if that is correct. I will call cadillac now. autozone said it was correct.

this is what happened. I installed the new battery. Car fired right up. I turned it off. Fired up again right away. I let it run for 15-20 min and turned off. Tried again and it wouldn't start. Doing the same thing as it was before the new battery. I kept trying to start for about 20 more minutes. Fired up twice out of about 15 attempts.

what next??? lol

OK we finally have progress. Now you need to be sure that the battery is fully charged OR you drive the car around to charge it up some more.

If you hve now purchased a Battery Tender you can put it on and try again in the morning.

If this continues you should take it over to the dealer and let them test for a bad ground or a "draw"somewhere in the car.

Regards

I have yet to buy a tender. When I got the new battery they tested it to be sure. Wouldn't they automatically be fully charged? I wonder why it would start right up at first then continue to do the same thing? I just found out ccclarke lives 10 min from me lol

Greg,

PM sent for a house call. No beer charge (Hefferveisen at this time of year) unless we find the problem.

I've got a Battery Tender, but the Battery Minder has an anti-sulfation mode I like. Both work well for the job, and are cheap insurance for reliable starts. Google them to find the best prices.

CC :cheers

Nope!! They hot shot most batterys and then put them on the shelf until they are sold.

In most instances they don't have the enough charged cranking power in them initially although they can handle it.

When you start your car again....the Volt/Amp meter on the upper right side of your dash should read at 14 amps. If it is higher, the cars charging system is working hard to get the battery fully charged up. This is a good thing and it may confirm that all you need to do is either charge it...slowly or drive it and try not to use too much of the electronics in the car until it is fully charged.

CC will be a tremendous help to you so just follow what he wants to do and you'll be driving the car and really enjoying it shortly.

Please let us know how it is progressing.

Regards

Jerry

Yeah, we're making some forward movement in resolving Greg's problem, but it looks like the parts place sold him a battery that may meet the OEM specs electrically, but physically has the posts reversed, so he isn't getting a 100% connection on one post due to crossing the cables and having no slack. This is major and needs to be addressed. The correct OEM battery may solve all of his problems.

As for the volts/ammeter reading 14 amps, the gauge on the upper/right of the Instrument Panel is a voltmeter only. I believe the nominal voltage should be 14.35 vdc, and will edit this post later when I have the manual in front of me to correct this if I'm wrong.

Volts and amps are often interchanged, but are quite different. Think of water running through a pipe. The amount of water that flows is voltage. The amount of water pressure (or current) is the amperage.

CC :seeya

CC great job!!

You may be right on the dash readout. I was going by my 2008 XLR-V reading as I was going down the road. I have a real new battery and it is up to full charge.

FWIW: The GM?Cadillac battery code for a new "V" battery is 85H7YR.

If I were "shutterbugs" I'd get them to either give me one that had the poles in the correct location or refund my money.

BTW: Wan't there a discussion on Interstate or other brand of battery that was real good for XLRs awhile ago??? That may also be a consideration.

ALSO: The new battery cables for the 2009's are neat. they slide over the battery poles and clamp down. I just may get a set for insurance.

We gottaget back on the "Quick Reference" Notes for people. I think the no power at all--can't get in the car one is done. I had a few of those beers and wrote it).

Please edit and correct it as you see fit.


Regards

Jerry

I went to my car today to take pics of the battery for cc. I left the battery in over night. Got right i nthe car and it fired up everytime. Like 10 times. drove it for 10 min. turned off. Started up everytime again. What would be the oem battery. This is the only battery auto zone could find. I also called cadillac parts. They confirmed that the cranking amps and cold cranking amps were correct. 590 cold cranking/735 cranking amps.

any thoughts

thanks, Greg

Greg,

PM email sent. For anyone else following this thrilling, edge-of-your seat thread, at this point, the initial diagnosis is that the problems Greg's been experiencing are probably related to the various states of the different batteries that have been in and out of the car over the last couple of days.

As most of you know, a battery with inadequate power is going throw the XLR in a state of complete hysterics, with all kinds of wacky symptoms. Spontaneous tattletale icons and warning messages on the IPC, Fob lockouts, doors that laugh in your face when you press the buttons, and engines that won't start . . . But at least the car is still good-looking!

At this point, I've recommended that Greg get the proper battery with the posts in the right position. Cables (especially subjected to constant vibration) under strain are prone to failure. Maybe not today, but at some point in the not too-distant future. . . at night . . . in the rain . . . with your wife in labor . . . You know what I mean.

CC :cheers

shutterbug:

The correct Cadillac/ Delco battery for your car is 85H7YR.

If you will take CC and my recommendation and go and get this battery I am convinced that your problems will be over.

Regards.

Jerry

I agree with all previous battery comments. When my battery died I tried several places, and several places tried to sell me batteries that their computers said "fit" but weren't close either in size or amperage. Luckily I had the details about the battery from this forum and found one that met all criteria. Don't trust those computer or reference books for any parts for an XLR, you need the correct specs or original equipment parts. Finicky doesn't begin to describe these beauties.

cool. thanks for the info... So, I called cadillac. hey have the OEM battery for $150. not bad. I have never had a car that required the oem battery. I thought I would try one more thing. I called Batteries Plus, which is a battery only business here in sacramento, ca. They carry I different battery for the xlr than Auto Zone's.

The one I returned to auto zone was:
Duralast - 590 colding cranking amps - 85 reserve capacity. terminals were reversed. the power/ground wires had to cross and also had a BAD strain to get them connected.

The one battery plus has is:

East Penn - 735 cold crankig amps. power/ground terminals are correct so the power is on the left when you look at battery with the terminals closest to you. no strain. it's $80 with 7yr warranty.

any thoughts :) if this still sounds bad to you guys, I will get the OEM.

thanks

At this point I would get the OEM battery. This will ensure that the dealership will support you going forward and will not have an "out" if other issues crop up.
Cheap $$ for peace of mind finally don't you think??

Also I think that if you pressed the issue you would get a discount of some sort --10%-15% from the dealer.

NOW you can finally enjoy the car as it was intended to be.

cool. thanks for the info... So, I called cadillac. hey have the OEM battery for $150. not bad. I have never had a car that required the oem battery. I thought I would try one more thing. I called Batteries Plus, which is a battery only business here in sacramento, ca. They carry I different battery for the xlr than Auto Zone's.

The one I returned to auto zone was:
Duralast - 590 colding cranking amps - 85 reserve capacity. terminals were reversed. the power/ground wires had to cross and also had a BAD strain to get them connected.

The one battery plus has is:

East Penn - 735 cold crankig amps. power/ground terminals are correct so the power is on the left when you look at battery with the terminals closest to you. no strain. it's $80 with 7yr warranty.

any thoughts :) if this still sounds bad to you guys, I will get the OEM.

thanks

That is a lot of CCAs. The space for the battery in our XLRs is limited. To achieve such a high CCA rating, I suspect that the Ah rating is reduced. This is not a good thing, you need a combination of the right CCAs AND the right Ah. Roughly you want >640CCAs and >68Ah, AND the terminals the right way round AND small enough to fit on the tray, under the cowl.

There are not many options that meet all of these criteria, suggest you get the right Delco one, in good condition!

HTHs,

I got mine at Oriley auto parts. about $80. It has never failed me.

I got mine at Oriley auto parts. about $80. It has never failed me.

The life of a battery is considerably affected by how it is operated. If you drive a decent distance regularly (every day or three) in a warmer climate then you are not putting your battery under much strain.

Let it get cold (below freezing say) and drive a short distance less than once a week then pretty much any battery will need a tender connected. The correctly specified battery will last longer (possibly much longer) than the incorrectly specified battery under adverse conditions. The heavy use battery will deteriorate slowly at first and might last 2-3 years before it starts to cause problems. It all depends.

Given the vital importance of the battery to the XLR, and also the fact that Delco are making very high energy density batteries (basically the best there are in the package size), I recommend the OEM battery.

HTHs

thanks for all the replies. I'm going to cadillac tomorrow to get the OEM battery. Only $140. I figure, I might as well get the oem since its only $60 more.

thanks again