Pressure Sensors

I am in process of obtaining a spare wheel for my 06 V. The new wheel does not have a pressure sensor or valve stem.
Can anyone tell me:
1. Are the pressure sensors wheel specific?
GM Parts direct lists them, but does not require wheel location.
2. Where are the sensors located? In the wheel or elsewhere in the car?
3. Is the valve stem unique to these wheels, or generic?


Thanks folks, I really appreciate the help.

Rusty

Tire pressure sensors are not wheel specific, you program the location. The Valve stems are part of the TPS system and should be installed by your tire dealer. They are in the wheel. Doug-J

There are some good deals for these on ebay under cadillac xlr. I have never purchased one but they run around 50 to 75.
V Happy

The TPM's are part of the valve stem and need to be reset to the new location if you rotate the tires. Discount Tire sells them and can install them as part of a spare tire you may want mounted. The only thing is that you won't be able to tell which wheel needs air if it isn't programmed to the specific location.

This opens up an interesting consideration....I wonder what the DIC will do with a 5th wheel.......

Thanks, folks. I am a little confused.
If the TPM's are "part of the valve stem", how can Discount Tire install them without having the wheel, where the valve stem is installed??
Also, can they easily be removed from one wheel and installed in another, without damage?

Thanks, again

Rusty

The TPM's are part of the valve stem and need to be reset to the new location if you rotate the tires. Discount Tire sells them and can install themas part of a spare tire you may want mounted. the only thing is that you won't be able to tell which wheel needs air if it isn't programmed to the specific location.

This opens up an interesting consideration....I wonder what the DIC will do with a 5th wheel.......

They are part of the valve stem and are installed from the inside of the wheel with the tire removed.

Yes, a real thoughtful question. If one mounts up a "spare wheel and tire", just to have on hand should a tire disaster happen. Presumably chances are you could make it home on a run flat tire and employ the spare wheel/tire. If it is previously mounted, what would you previously have set the monitor to?? Nothing? Can you set it to "nothing"? or choose a wheel and have a 25% chance of being correct?
HMMMM Inquiring minds want to know.

Rusty



This opens up an interesting consideration....I wonder what the DIC will do with a 5th wheel.......

march:

Welcome to the XLR Forum!!! We welcome your input and experiences.

Regards

Jerry

The XLR only responds to (4) TPS inputs, LF, LR, RR, LR. Each TPS has a unique ID number and outputs and outputs pressure in kPa, displayed in psi (unless the DIC is set to Metric) on the Instrument Panel Cluster. Since the car isn't equipped with a spare, a 5th reading isn't needed.

CC :cheers

Yes, of course. But how would one mount a spare tire/wheel and keep it in the garage until an emergency occurs? And thereby how would one set up the sensor in such a situation? And when mounted, and if it conflicted with another wheel sensor what would the DIC do??

Rusty

The XLR only responds to (4) TPS inputs, LF, LR, RR, LR. Each TPS has a unique ID number and outputs and outputs pressure in kPa, displayed in psi (unless the DIC is set to Metric) on the Instrument Panel Cluster. Since the car isn't equipped with a spare, a 5th reading isn't needed.

CC :cheers

The TPM will only allow 4 sensors to be programmed at a time. If a spare wheel is installed (even with a sensor), the TPM will not read it until programmed to do so. Instead it will try to read the sensor in the tire that was removed (presumably @ 0 PSI) and if out of range will show only --- for the tire position in question. You will also see a "Service Tire Monitor" message if that should occur.

Each sensor has a unique ID. The chances of two meeting in your garage having the same number are . . . . low.

Spare Tire Recipe:

Ingredients

(1) Run-Flat Tire -available at major brand tire stores or dealers.
(1) Wheel - available on eBay at a discount (caveat emptor)
(1) TPS Sensor - available on eBay (ditto)

Step 1) Mount the TPS sensor to the wheel. Torque as necessary.
Step 2) Add tire until well done.
Step 3) Mix with air and measure with tire gauge until full.
Step 4) Wait for one tire to fail.
Step 5) Replace with spare.
Step 6) Program as necessary.

Repeat steps 2-4 substituting a new tire.

Let's roll!

CC :cheers

Great CC, I'm almost there! When I mount the "reserve tire" on my new rim, and store it in my garage, carefully keeping it away from the car, do I set the sensor to Lf, lr, rf, or rr? Or can I set it to nothing?
And after my mounted tire fails, and I replace it with the "reserve tire" which I have been keeping secluded in my garage, How does the DC respond to it?
If I set the sensor to one of the original 3 corners still mounted on the car will it conflict? If I set it to nothing, how will the DIC know which corner it is on?
Thanks, you're a great cook.

Rusty


Each sensor has a unique ID. The chances of two meeting in your garage having the same number are . . . . low.

Spare Tire Recipe:

Ingredients

(1) Run-Flat Tire -available at major brand tire stores or dealers.
(1) Wheel - available on eBay at a discount (caveat emptor)
(1) TPS Sensor - available on eBay (ditto)

Step 1) Mount the TPS sensor to the wheel. Torque as necessary.
Step 2) Add tire until well done.
Step 3) Mix with air and measure with tire gauge until full.
Step 4) Wait for one tire to fail.
Step 5) Replace with spare.
Step 6) Program as necessary.

Repeat steps 2-4 substituting a new tire.

Let's roll!

CC :cheers

Rusty,

The TPS system is designed to respond to four unique ID numbers transmitted from the Tire Pressure Sensors being monitored by the car. Until the fifth wheel is programmed to replace one of the other four, you can stick the sensor any place your want; it isn't going to be recognized by the car., but depending on where it's been stuck. . . it may be noticeable or . . . uncomfortable. --But I digress. . . You wanted to know about wheel programming, here's the scoop:

In stationary mode, each sensor communicates every hour with the car, starting fifteen minutes after the car becomes well, stationary. Once the car goes over 20 mph, (drive mode) the sensors communicate every sixty seconds. All TPS communications are to the RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver). --This is the same unit that queries the fobs for a valid ID when unlocking the vehicle or actuating the ignition system.

If any TPS monitor malfunctions, the DIC will display SERVICE TIRE MONITOR and the suspected bad sensor will display dashes instead of tire pressure for that location.

If a sensor fails or you rotate your tires, the RCDLR must re-learn where the unique ID for each sensor is located. A magnet is used to force the tire to transmit (drive mode) by placing it adjacent to the valve stem. GM has a "special" tool called a J 41760 (essentially, a big honkin magnet) for this purpose.

The tires are calibrated in the following order: LF, RF, RR, LR.

To program the TPS system, place a beer glass in the freezer. Select the ACC position on the ignition switch, and the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons are pressed at the same time on the fob. The magnet is placed next to the tires in the order above until the horn chirps, signaling the sensor has been learned. The Learn Mode will cancel if no sensors have been detected for one minute, or more than five minutes pass for the whole procedure to be completed. When the RCDLR detects the first sensor, all previous sensor entries are erased.

When the last tire sensor (LR) is learned, the horn will honk twice. Select OFF on the ignition switch to begin savoring your TPS-saviness, while basking in your rightfully-earned self-sufficiency. The double-horn honk is your cue to return to the freezer.

With the chilled glass you thoughtfully prepared beforehand, (you did read the directions, right?) pour your beer with the glass tilted at a 37 (or 57) degree angle to reduce the head, and return to the garage. Admire your awesome car in satisfaction while you slake your thirst. You've earned your rightful place in the Pantheon of XLR owners.

CC :cheers

Thanks, CC.

It's that last paragraph that gets me.

With the chilled glass you thoughtfully prepared beforehand, (you did read the directions, right?) pour your beer with the glass tilted at a 37 (or 57) degree angle to reduce the head, and return to the garage. Admire your awesome car in satisfaction while you slake your thirst. You've earned your rightful place in the Pantheon of XLR owners

Is the glass tilted at 42 degrees +/- 5 or is it model dependent?

Seriously, now all I need is the definition of "Big Honkin"

Rusty

Interference is no problem. I have a STS parked right next to the XLR and neither get confused about each other's tire pressures. I also have several spare TPS modules in my garage and they have never been recognized by either vehicle. Also when the TPS sits stationary over a period of time they quit transmitting anyway since they are charged by the rotation of the wheels. Once they are put on a wheel and driven they will have to be programmed in order to read on the DIC. Imagine what would happen otherwise in a parking lot, tire store, etc.

Thanks to all for helping me on this issue. Special thanks to CC. I am now armed with all I need to know to competently achieve dealer independence changing a flat tire:

cheers!

Rusty

I am in process of obtaining a spare wheel for my 06 V. The new wheel does not have a pressure sensor or valve stem.
Can anyone tell me:
1. Are the pressure sensors wheel specific?
GM Parts direct lists them, but does not require wheel location.
2. Where are the sensors located? In the wheel or elsewhere in the car?
3. Is the valve stem unique to these wheels, or generic?


Thanks folks, I really appreciate the help.

Rusty

I did a spare also and just used a regular valve stem. I figured that I would have to get programed anyway and I would just repair or replace the damaged tire and the TPM would still be functional. It just gives you a message that there is no air in the tire,

Rusty,

The TPS system is designed to respond to four unique ID numbers transmitted from the Tire Pressure Sensors being monitored by the car. Until the fifth wheel is programmed to replace one of the other four, you can stick the sensor any place your want; it isn't going to be recognized by the car., but depending on where it's been stuck. . . it may be noticeable or . . . uncomfortable. --But I digress. . . You wanted to know about wheel programming, here's the scoop:

In stationary mode, each sensor communicates every hour with the car, starting fifteen minutes after the car becomes well, stationary. Once the car goes over 20 mph, (drive mode) the sensors communicate every sixty seconds. All TPS communications are to the RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver). --This is the same unit that queries the fobs for a valid ID when unlocking the vehicle or actuating the ignition system.

If any TPS monitor malfunctions, the DIC will display SERVICE TIRE MONITOR and the suspected bad sensor will display dashes instead of tire pressure for that location.

If a sensor fails or you rotate your tires, the RCDLR must re-learn where the unique ID for each sensor is located. A magnet is used to force the tire to transmit (drive mode) by placing it adjacent to the valve stem. GM has a "special" tool called a J 41760 (essentially, a big honkin magnet) for this purpose.

The tires are calibrated in the following order: LF, RF, RR, LR.

To program the TPS system, place a beer glass in the freezer. Select the ACC position on the ignition switch, and the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons are pressed at the same time on the fob. The magnet is placed next to the tires in the order above until the horn chirps, signaling the sensor has been learned. The Learn Mode will cancel if no sensors have been detected for one minute, or more than five minutes pass for the whole procedure to be completed. When the RCDLR detects the first sensor, all previous sensor entries are erased.

When the last tire sensor (LR) is learned, the horn will honk twice. Select OFF on the ignition switch to begin savoring your TPS-saviness, while basking in your rightfully-earned self-sufficiency. The double-horn honk is your cue to return to the freezer.

With the chilled glass you thoughtfully prepared beforehand, (you did read the directions, right?) pour your beer with the glass tilted at a 37 (or 57) degree angle to reduce the head, and return to the garage. Admire your awesome car in satisfaction while you slake your thirst. You've earned your rightful place in the Pantheon of XLR owners.

CC :cheers

CC
You explained that beautifully!! I was confused on the tps's. Now it is crystal clear. My glass is in the freezer now
V Happy

OK, I followed this and many other posts instructions for reprogramming the TPMS and still can't get the TPMS to program. I get the first honk by pressing the lock/unlock buttons on the FOB simultaneoulsy, then go to the LF tire with trusty speaker magnet...viola, I get a honk...good to go. Then I go to the RF and get a honk there too...(I can almost taste the beer). Next I go to RR with magnet and get a honk there too (getting real excited now). Then, I take magent to LR and NOTHING!!! AHHHHH Crap....no beer yet. So I replaced the LR sensor and did routine again. Same out come...honkless on that tire. WTF? I replaced the TPM sensor with a SB-20076 (allegedly compatible for my 04 XLR). I still have the "SVC Tire Monitor" DIC prominently displayed. Could it be a receiver issue and not a transmitter issue? Are there 4 receivers in this car (in the wheel wells?) or just one central reciever for the TPMS? Could it be that one of the "honking" sensors is bad too?

BTW, I would rather not have a TPMS as I can visually see when a tire is low or flat. I don't need some stinking electronic gadget tell me ANYTHING!! Well, I take that back. A low beer warning light would be nice

Slugward,

You've followed the procedure and by all rights, should be savoring your well-earned beer. This is sooo wrong. :cry We MUST make it right. :yesnod

I suspect a bad TPMS sensor in your LR tire. The RCDLR receives the (4) ID numbers, so if it's getting one, it's probably getting them all. Following the time-tested rule of, "You must be smarter than the equipment you're operating" here's a simple work-around:

Re-program in this order: LF, RF, LR, RR. If you get the double-honk signaling Miller Time, (meaning all sensors were detected) Swap the LR/RR wheels and begin hydrating with mass quantities of beer.

If the LR wheel sensor is bad, you obviously won't get to the point where you hear a double-honk, but will most likely need a beer anyway. By all means, you're due. Let me know how this works out for ya.
CC :cheers :cheers

OK, I followed this and many other posts instructions for reprogramming the TPMS and still can't get the TPMS to program. I get the first honk by pressing the lock/unlock buttons on the FOB simultaneoulsy, then go to the LF tire with trusty speaker magnet...viola, I get a honk...good to go. Then I go to the RF and get a honk there too...(I can almost taste the beer). Next I go to RR with magnet and get a honk there too (getting real excited now). Then, I take magent to LR and NOTHING!!! AHHHHH Crap....no beer yet. So I replaced the LR sensor and did routine again. Same out come...honkless on that tire. WTF? I replaced the TPM sensor with a SB-20076 (allegedly compatible for my 04 XLR). I still have the "SVC Tire Monitor" DIC prominently displayed. Could it be a receiver issue and not a transmitter issue? Are there 4 receivers in this car (in the wheel wells?) or just one central reciever for the TPMS? Could it be that one of the "honking" sensors is bad too?

BTW, I would rather not have a TPMS as I can visually see when a tire is low or flat. I don't need some stinking electronic gadget tell me ANYTHING!! Well, I take that back. A low beer warning light would be nice

Did you ever get this fixed? My only thought was maybe the sensor needs to be driven enough to charge its internal battery and so the new sensor was failing because it wasn't charged up enough? If so, drive a few miles and try again?

BTW, these run flat radials do not show when they are low on air as the side walls are specially strengthened.

Rusty,
GM has a "special" tool called a J 41760 (essentially, a big honkin magnet) for this purpose.

The tires are calibrated in the following order: LF, RF, RR, LR.

To program the TPS system, place a beer glass in the freezer. Select the ACC position on the ignition switch, and the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons are pressed at the same time on the fob. The magnet is placed next to the tires in the order above until the horn chirps, signaling the sensor has been learned. The Learn Mode will cancel if no sensors have been detected for one minute, or more than five minutes pass for the whole procedure to be completed. When the RCDLR detects the first sensor, all previous sensor entries are erased.

When the last tire sensor (LR) is learned, the horn will honk twice. Select OFF on the ignition switch to begin savoring your TPS-saviness, while basking in your rightfully-earned self-sufficiency. The double-horn honk is your cue to return to the freezer.

CC :cheers

As I had had the tires rotated and hadn't bothered with the pressures being at different positions, I thought it was about time I followed the instructions. So:

1/ Don't know if this matters, but drove XLR about 30 miles so all sensors fully charged up.
2/ Get suitable beverage in preparation.
3/ Into accy mode and hold both buttons down - get a honk- aha we are in business. If I have understood the notes correctly, at this stage no sensors have been deleted.
4/ Place magnet in spokes of LF, as close to TPM valve as possible. No honk, try various positions and as I am about to give up and withdraw the magnet fully, I get a honk. So, now in business, with all erased and LF learnt.
5/ Round to RF. No matter what I try, no honk. Bother. This means I have just one sensor recorded? Since I have a huge number of power magnets taken from the insides of destroyed hard disk drives, I go and find one that might fit a little better. Try that one. About to give up (at least 15 seconds of trying, maybe more), get a honk. Thats good! (I must have been right on the limit of the 1 minute time out too)
6/ RR next. After about 10 seconds this time, I get a honk.
7/ Into the last straight then, LR. Again 10 seconds and a double honk. Success!
8/ Collect prepared beverage and savor success as directed by instructions posted here.

It seems that it can take an appreciable while before the RCDLR responds to the sensor, or maybe the sensor takes a while to get around to reporting its pressure. Whatever, it seemed like an age before I got the honk on the two front wheels, the rear ones were a little quicker.