Bought 04 XLR for my wife`s birthday back in Oct. 08. I`ve had the usual dead battery problems described in the forum and have cured that problem with a battery tender.
Went out yesterday to get the car out for my wife and the door light came on but the door wouldn`t open, tried both fobs same results. Battery was up(12.5 volts) so I disconnected the neg. terminal for about 10 minutes, still the doors would not open, tried to start it but nothing happened except for faint noise that seemed to be coming from the dashboard.
The headlights and taillights work but no brake lights and no windows or trunk or anything else electrical.
Everything worked fine when car was garaged 3 days ago.
Wife loves the car but I`m totally baffled as what to try next and after reading all the problems in the forum I`m starting to regret buying it for her.
Would appreciate any help or advice on this problem.
Thanks, Ron

Welcome to the XLR Forum!!

We are sorry for the battery and starting problems you are experiencing.

I am wondering if the battery connections are tight. As you know a battery can be up to full charge but if it isn't connected properly it won''t start the car.

There are 2 ends to each cable so tracing and checking each end may find the issue.

Obvious and simple Stuff

1. Verify that the car is in park???
2. Can you get the accessory and the start buttons on the dash to light up?
3. When attempting to start the car, be sure you have your foot on the brake---I've done this one more than once and tried to start it by pushing the button with the acessory side lit.

4. Replace 1 of the FOB Batterys with one that is brand new.
5. Will the Fobs lock and unlock the car???

6. Is the battery still at full charge after trying all of this stuff or drawn down?? If so it just may need to be replaced.

If all of this fails you may need an unfortunate trip to the dealer.....

Please let us know how this turns out for you.


The other guys may have more suggestions for you.
Regards

It's always a safe bet to check the last thing you touched prior to having a problem. Ensure the battery terminals are tight. Then place a fob in the glove box slot to verify comms with the RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) using the limp home antenna, just in case your fob batteries are weak, and try to start the vehicle. Tells us what happens.

CC

Welcome to the forum, Ron!

How did you gain access to try and start the car. Key in the bumper? From the description, it almost sounds like the car is not recognizing the fobs. Around five bucks for a two pack of batteries wouldn't be a bad idea, even if that is not what is causing this problem. The part number should be located on the back of your fob, or just pop it open with a coin. Good luck!

If the car has the original battery, pull it out and take it to advance/autozone/napa/etc for free testing.

Bought new battery for fob, checked battery cable tightness, tried fob in glove box, disconnected negative terminal several times, still no luck.
Was able to gain access as window was down.Noticed today that gas door works, inside trunk releases the trunk but it doesn`t come up, also the steering wheel telescoping still works.
Had the battery load tested a couple of months ago and it seems to be holding 12..5Volts,can`t get the car out of park so can`t move it to take to dealer.
Don`t know what to try next???? Ron

SKYKING37:

At this point, I would follow BoughtThe XLR's suggestion and take the battery out of the car and have it load tested. Then you will know for sure that it is OK.

Fuses--Have you looked over the fuse box to see if any of them are blown????

Also see if you can get the ignition to light up the accessory side and then put your foot on the brake and see if you can get the car in to neutral.

If this does't work it sounds like the cadillac people will be coming to pick your car up WITH the prior knowledge that the car won't come out of park. (Tire Dollys needed)

I truly have never heard of this problem.

Regards





Regards

Took the battery out this afternoon and had it load tested, checked out fine,can`t get the accessory side to light up, only the start button and the off button light up and they go out when the interior light goes off.
Haven`t checked all the fuses yet, the ones I have checked were ok.Guess I`ll check them all and see if I can find one thats blown.
Can`t believe a car this nice has so many problems.Unfortunately neither Cadillac dealer in my area has a XLR tech any more. Thanks, Ron

Ron:

Well at least we know what it isn't.

So now we know it is NOT:

1. Either Key Fob or low batteries in the FOBs.
2. The Battery
3. Fuses
4. The gear shift selector being in the wrong place. (Please see below)
5. You not stepping on the brake first before starting the car.
6. Pushing the wrong place on the starter button.

If you can put one of the FOBS in the pocket in the glove box and get the car into neutral. I am thinking that it should go to the dealer and let them hook it up to their diagnostic machine. It will trace all of the circuits and the supporting components in the starting sequence and tell us what is failing.

Without having the car it is very difficult to try other things.

I wonder if there is a service manual at the dealer that they will let you look at. Also, if CC is around he has a manual that just may point you to the area that is failing.

I sure am glad that this didn't happen on the road somewhere........



I turned up some info that may be helpful....--There was an issue with some...

2004 and 2005's "No Crank, PRNDL Inoperative

Owners of some 2004-2005 Cadillac XLR's may experience a no-crank condition, with no codes in any module. The concern may be followed by an inoperative transmission range indicator (PRNDL). the Tech 2 will show the transmission range circuits are all reading high when any gear is selected.

Check for a loose or broken ground G402 at the rear right suspension cradle. See SI document 1495107.

Regards

Jerry

This sounds an awful lot like an Easy Key issue. (Ironic name at the moment, I know.) As long as you have good power/connections, the problem begins with no fob acknowlegment by the RCDLR. Even with a dead (fob) battery, using the limp-home antenna, the RCDLR will be able to sense the fob when it's placed in the pocket in the glove box, which is adjacent to the RCDLR.

Once the RCDLR acknowledges the fob, The Ignition Mode switch operates with the Body Control Module to latch the appropriate relays to start the car. The transmission shift lever works with the BCM also --in conjuction with the Aux Power relay. The common component here is the RCDLR or fob programming.

You have power going to the Run Crank relay since the telescoping steering wheel operates.

So if I understand this, you've got power into the BCM but the RCDLR isn't responding to the fobs. A scan tool has the ability to tell how many fobs are programmed to your RCDLR and if necesssary, re-learn them.

The troubleshooting matrix starts with all of the questions previously asked by the other good folks here; verifying the battery, fuses, and checking grounds. The next decision box says, "Install a scan tool." Arrrgh!

Unless you have a Tech 2 scan tool, once you've elminated the basics, you're due for a tow to the dealer. An Easy Key system failure falls under the show-stopping, critical failure category. Depending on the dealer, you may be able to get a tech to come to you with a scan tool and possibly save you a tow.

Good luck, and please report back what fixes this so we can update the database.

CC :seeya

Really appreciate everyone`s help and concern,so glad I joined the forum here`s the latest hopefully the symptons will help isolate the problem.
Went out to the garage yesterday, hooked up the ground cable, still the door would light up but had to open it manually.
Tried starter button several times with no results. Suddenly as I was getting ready to exit the radio came on and the accessory light also.
Car started up immediately with all the warnings on the DIC showing all systems need servicing, and none of the guages were working.
Cut off the engine and restarted it. Gauges slowly came to life and all warning system alarms were normal like nothing at all was wrong.
Checked all systems, even cycled the top. Everything worked flawlessly.
Backed out of garage started up driveway(test drive) before I reached the top of the driveway radio died followed by guages dying and all warning systems on dash and DIC actvated once more.
Turned around back to the garage, didn`t chance putting it in park or setting the brake, popped the hood and disconneced the negative terminal.Gave up went in and had a cold few.

Tried it today, started immediately, no gauges, radio and all warnings activated.

Cut it off,restarted it, every system working flawlessly,took short test drive(3 miles only due to time restraints) all systems functioning normally.

Back in the garage, sat for several hours( shut it off normally as if nothing was ever wrong) refired it, all systems normal.

Would like your opinions on what to do next. Needless to say my wife won`t be driving it until the problem is corrected.

I`m thinking if everything continues to work normally taking it to the dealer for a scan would just show that everythings fine.

I`ll be taking it for a longer test drive tomorrow,I`ve got my fingers crossed!!!

Thankyou all again for your help,I`ll let you know how the test drive goes.
Ron

The problems "SHOULD" have set codes that the dealers Tech 2 can pick up for diagnostics. The codes are either history or current. Have someone follow you when driving to the dealer. Good luck. Doug-J

It could be an intermittently failing module or loose connector. Either way, until it fails hard, it's going to be a tough fix.

Having the dealer pull previously stored history codes is a good idea. You can also tap connectors or shake harnesses while the car is functioning nominally to look for any changes. I admire your patience.

CC :cheers

I agree with CC and DTS Diamond:

Get it to the dealer and let us know what codes were trapped and if it is fixed.

Regards

Finally after approx. 150 trouble free miles took it to the dealer for scan.
Showed over 50 codes but tech said they were from the problems encountered when the car finally decided to function normally again, and gave him no clue as to what the original lproblem might have been. Computer glitch was his diagnosis.

Once again thank all of you that helped out with your advice and concern.

Needless to say wife refuses to drive it, even though it scans clean now and everything is working flawlessly so I guess I`ll put it on the market.What a shame!!

Ron

Well you could "lead by example" and start driving it regurly yourself and see how it does.

There are lots of us that are of the opinions that these cars start to do or not do things because they sit too long and are not used regularly.

I would drive it around and try and make an agreement with the technnician to stop by in 2 weeks and then a month to see what codes may have been stored and discuss any quirks you have noticed.

If all goes well your bride just may want to give it another try.

Please let us know how it turns out.

Having 'no codes' and "just coming to life without any change in operation methods", I would look at the "main power wire" to the underhood fuse box. I think (without a book) I see many of the different computers/systems being powered by this fuse center. Intermitant power would cause the problems you have described, and that would also be a reason why there were no codes stored (no power). When there is no power, the computer/control unit assumes 'it is shut off'. Please inspect the main power wire going into that fuse box, for a loose connection. Some of the symptoms you described sounded like 'electrical circuit feedback' and considering how complicated this car is, I wonder why I am not the proud owner of a TECH II and the entire volume of service manuals for my little jewel.

THOUGHT IT WAS FIXED!

Back to day one, all systems worked flawlessly for 2 days,garaged it(IN PARK-should have known better.) Went out this morning and once again same deal, door light comes on but won`t open. Locked in park, brake set, no acc. light, start light inop.,etc.

Systems that work; steering wheel telescoping normal,head and parking lights but no brake light or turn signals,4-way flashers work, fuel door opens, trunk releases latch but does not open.
All other systems are inop. including both fobs with new batteries.

Things I`ve tried: Load test battery( 3-times at different locations)
Checked all battery terminal connections(also at fusebox)
Inserting both fobs in glove box.
Disconnecting -&+ battery cables numerous times.
Pushing all the interior switches numerous times.
Scanned at Cadillac dealer(when it was operating normally.

One thing that might be suspect is the drop in voltage I noticed, when the car was last garaged(everything working) I checked the voltage at 12.92 and when everythig locked up this morning it was down to 12.13. This was with the battery tender+ hooked up to it all night. Battry tender is new and was working on the car very well when the car was operational.

Any advice I could get would really be appreciated, I`m out of ideas and don`t want to dolly it to the dealer if it can be helped.

Ron

skyking37:

We won't abandon you.

I would Battery Tender it to be sure it's up to max and then;

1. Leave the fob in the pocket in the glove box so it is as close as it can get to the receiver.

2. I think you have a short or a loose ground wire as others stated. If it was a failing component like the ECM it would fail hard and not work at all.
3. What about the fuse box?? Have you re examined the critical fuzes to see if any were "blown"?? That may relate to #1 if so.

the car badly needs a XLR Tech with the diagnostic machine to check virtually everything. It looks like a Sun Machine, rolls around on wheels and can examine all of the electronic components for you. I am thinking load tests andstrting tests--etc.

Also the issue of why no codes are being set really baffles me on this one.

We need to get it out of park and your garage and inot a knowledeable dealer. Then it should sit where they can check it out on various times and days to see if it will fail for them.

Please get them to confirm that it isn't:

2004 and 2005's "No Crank, PRNDL Inoperative

Owners of some 2004-2005 Cadillac XLR's may experience a no-crank condition, with no codes in any module. The concern may be followed by an inoperative transmission range indicator (PRNDL). the Tech 2 will show the transmission range circuits are all reading high when any gear is selected.

Check for a loose or broken ground G402 at the rear right suspension cradle. See SI document 1495107.



I really am sorry for your inconvenience and hope a resolution is found ASAP!!!

Regards

Jerry

Since your symptoms are repeatable and the car is exhibiting the same faults after being parked, you might want to consider this; I suspect a bad signal path in the power distribution circuits.

Take a non-conductive object and tap a couple of times on each relay in the Underhood Bussed Electrical Center and under the passenger toeboard where the BCM lives. Tap on a relay and try the ignition, then move to the next sequentially. Ensure you know exactly which relay you were checking before you try the ignition. You don't need to wail on the relays, just let them know you care. A poor ground connection is also suspect, but if it were cutting out on the road with vibration, it probably wouldn't do it at rest, like it appears based on the (good) details you've been providing.

Troubleshooting intermittents is a real talent and requires a lot of patience and thorough knowledge of how a circuit is supposed to work. The fact that some of your circuits are working (in a RUN condition, I assume) is a big help when chasing down a fault like this. I'm on travel again, so I don't have my shop manuals, but perhaps someone else here can look at what's working to steer you toward a power line to check or relay that might be causing this. Always keep an open mind, use plenty of light and look for anything out of place. Keep detailed logs of what's been checked, and any conditions that change the symptoms. Often when I'm involved in fixing a tough fault, (it can take days or even weeks, depending on the system) the cause is usually something that makes us go, "Of course, --why didn't we figure this out earlier based on the syptoms we had?!" (Hindsight being 20/20.) If you keep focused on what's not working, compared to what is, you may also end up with a Eureka! moment.


CC :cheers

Ron, you wrote

One thing that might be suspect is the drop in voltage I noticed, when the car was last garaged(everything working) I checked the voltage at 12.92 and when everythig locked up this morning it was down to 12.13. This was with the battery tender+ hooked up to it all night. Battery tender is new and was working on the car very well when the car was operational.


I am suspect of your battery may be the culprit, either you have a intermittent bad cell ( load Test is not the greatest) or you have a very serious current drain in the car. The battery tender should easily hold the voltage up to normal float level, 12.13 is very low, indicates the Tender is trying to maintain 13 volts but is unable to do it either due to the battery or a high current drain inside the car. consider disconnecting the battery from the car and with just a tender on it measure the voltage at regular intervals. Plot this measurements on a chart to see if the voltage vary's, it should come up and stabilize. the Tender should bring the battery up to the Tender voltage and hold it there. A battery that has sat in a car for long idle periods will on occasion develop a intermittent short in a single cell this low battery voltage.

Good Luck

Bill

FINALLY DECIDED TO START!!

After numerous tries car started, came out of park(cut a stop block out of wood so I don`t accidently put it back in park). As long as it is in neutral car starts repeatedly.

When it first started radio came on briefly and the dic showed everything needs servicing along with idiot lights on dash staying on but no guages,voltmeter went briefly to 13 then back to 0.

Restarted engine, no problem,seems like in neutral the engine starts like nothing is wrong.

Things inop. with engine running:
dash warning lights and gauges
sound system
doors, windows,top, trunk,fobs,mirrors, door locks,

Things that work with engine running:
head and tail and brake lights, turn signals work but no ind. on dash
goes into drive &reverse(could be driveable??)
HVAC system
With none of the guages working would it be safe to drive it in for repairs?(approx. 30 miles). My concern would be overheating as don`t know if the coolant fan is operational

Have a very knowledgeable friend with a lift.If we could get hold of a wiring diagram we could check all the grounds and eliminate them as the problem. If this doesn`t help then its back to the dealer for another scan.Just hope it will be ok to drive in it`s present condition.

Won`t be able to fool with it til next week as I`ve got a trip this weekend.Car is garaged with neg. cable disconnected and in neutral so it should? restart when I get back.

Any thoughts or ideas are greatly appreciated.

Ron

I know its thwe 3rd time I posted it BUT.......

I still want to know now that the car starts in neutral....that this isn't the problem....

Please get them to confirm that it isn't:

2004 and 2005's "No Crank, PRNDL Inoperative

Owners of some 2004-2005 Cadillac XLR's may experience a no-crank condition, with no codes in any module. The concern may be followed by an inoperative transmission range indicator (PRNDL). the Tech 2 will show the transmission range circuits are all reading high when any gear is selected.

Check for a loose or broken ground G402 at the rear right suspension cradle. See SI document 1495107.

Regards

Started Briefly today!!

When I returned I hooked up the neg. cable and expected it to start since it was left in neutral.No such luck.

Thinking maybe it had to be in park to activate the system, that`s what i did.

After several days of trying to start it with no results it decided to start briefly(about 15 seconds) long enough to get it out of park this morning.
Before when it would start it kept running and would restart repeatedly this time would not restart.

At least it`s in neutral now so should be easier to get it on the rollback.Taking it to my friends place(has a lift)

He thinks it`s something in the wiring not making not making continous

contact or an intermiitant ground.

Anyone know where I canget a wiring diagram?

Ron

Forgot to add that right rear suspension ground was checked when it was at the dealer. Thanks Jerry.

Ron

Forgot to add that right rear suspension ground was checked when it was at the dealer. Thanks Jerry.

Ron
Well we can add that to the list of checked items.

Did he also verify that the shift selector was actually in the right position when you were trying to start it i/e Park/Park/ Neutral/Neutral????

A well equipped Cadillac dealer will have a diagnostic machine (looks like a Sun machine on wheels) that they can hook up to see what he current draw is on the whole car. I am wondering if they they can run electrical tests on all of the circuits......

Regards

Well we can add that to the list of checked items.

Did he also verify that the shift selector was actually in the right position when you were trying to start it i/e Park/Park/ Neutral/Neutral????

A well equipped Cadillac dealer will have a diagnostic machine (looks like a Sun machine on wheels) that they can hook up to see what he current draw is on the whole car. I am wondering if they they can run electrical tests on all of the circuits......

Regards

hey forum i got the same problem whit a 2004 xlr what happened ? did you find the problem ? please let me know
thanks