Ok. Here is an interesting one. 08V with a K40 Calibre radar detector, this is a hidden unit that is hard mounted into the car and uses bluetooth to communicate between the main unit, front and rear receivers. I've had this in both my X's and have had sporadic problems. After speaking with K40 tech support they advised the power leads need short runs to the power source. My question? The rear receiver is run to an ignition source at the front of the car. I need one in the trunk. Where do i find one I can use?

Dom

Dom:

I can tell you that pin location #13 is switched power hot and pin # 8 is the ground on the rear of the mirror. I use these connections for my Valentine 1.

Of course the harness runs through the window pillars to a source unknown to me. Exactly where is your unit that needs power mounted??

under the trunk. its just a receiver. there is one in the front too. all you see in my car is two led's. there is no other indication of radar detection.

The Calibre is an interesting system concept and I've been thinking about installing one. I like the hidden, flexible mounting scheme. Do you have any experience with the Valentine One for comparison purposes? I'm very pleased with it's performance doing side-by-side comparisons in my car. All the manufacturer's make claims of being the best, but I'd rather hear opinions from real-world users before investing the considerable requisite bucks for this set-up.

For those interested: http://www.k40.com/home_main.html

CC :cheers

Do you have any experience with the Valentine One for comparison purposes? I'm very pleased with it's performance doing side-by-side comparisons in my car. All the manufacturer's make claims of being the best, but I'd rather hear opinions from real-world users before investing the considerable requisite bucks for this set-up.

For the Gumball rally I did extensive research on radar detectors and I found a wealth of info at this forum:

http://www.radardetector.net/forums

I've concluded that the only radar detectors to own are either the V1 or an escort. Anything else doesn't quite cut the mustard, including the K40.

The laser jammers on the escort (the VR4's) are worthless - I've done testing myself with a bunch of guys who have a pile of laser speed guns and they don't work very well... even the Blinder M25's I have on my car are pretty weak... our testing shows that the only laser jammers that work 100% are the Laser Interceptors (but pricey at $1200 for a 4-head system since they use true laser-diodes). And on my silver XLR-V a four head LI system should work fine (2 front, 2 rear)... the LI system is also can be updated using a laptop for new laser guns as they come out.

http://static.natuba.com/pNJmSFCaSfSTPKdwxVpSDA.jpg

Everyone should do their own homework - but my research and testing has made me decide on a V1 for radar and Quad-head Laser Interceptors (2 front and 2 rear) for laser.

If you want GPS support for red light cameras and speed traps my understanding is that the Cheetah C100 works as advertised and will interface with the V1 to automute when needed. The cheetah is also has a port for updates for changes in the database using a PC.

Valentine One: http://www.valentine1.com/

Laser Interceptor: http://www.laser-interceptorusa.com/

Cheetah: http://www.speedcheetah.com/

Also - note that the V1 has been improved and upgraded many times with no obvious way of determining what version you have... this post may help you figure out if your V1 needs to be updated:

http://www.radardetector.net/forums/valentine-one/19104-v1-software-versions-vs-performance.html

And how to get the version information off your V1:

Starting with the Control Knob in the "off" position, Press and hold-in Knob and at the same time turn the Knob “on;” continue holding in the Knob until all front-panel lights are on (takes about 5 seconds).
Release the Control Knob.
Press and immediately release the Control Knob to display software version. The software-version number is four digits that display one digit at a time in the Bogey Counter-example: 2.869.

This is a GREAT THREAD!!!!

What do you guys think should I break it out as a separate topic???

Thanks to everyone for the absolute best information on this fast changing subject.

Regards

BUT WHAT ABOUT MY WIRE!!!!! LOL!!! As for the Calibre, it's ok. I've never tested it using any accurate methods. It does go off before I see the cop with the laser/radar pointed at me. I have a laser diffuser, not sure that works either. I haven't been pulled over for a while, so I can't really say. I like the set up though, and not having additional clutter in my car is a great. After doing some "after-the-fact" research though, I would have opted for the same unit in the hardwired instead of the bluetooth. In my opinion the bluetooth serves no purpose since you have to run power leads to the receivers anyway. So what's one more wire? And I'm finding out now that the bluetooth version is hindered by all sorts of interference (coiled wires act as rf choke, syncing issues with bluetooth, etc, etc.) So there is my 2 cents worth.

Thanks for the info-packed reply, I really appreciate your taking the time to make it thorough and your opinion backs up my thoughts on the matter.

As for wiring, there are hot wires in the trunk, namely the FTC next to the pump. I wouldn't tap into any of the modules on the GMLAN bus (like the Real Time Damping suspension control module next to the FTC) since they're critical to the safe operation of the car, and any induced noise spikes can disrupt comms. If you need the pin-outs for the FTC module connector, let me know. I would choose this module to power from because it isn't critical to vehicle operation; I'm sure there are other places back there also. The bluetooth draw should be minimal. Just to play it safe, test the top with the K-40 system energized to ensure nothing has changed.

The problem with adding aftermarket accessories (especially with this car) is inducing EMI that can affect the twin communication busses and lead to all sorts of horrible problems. To minimize this, twist all pairs the entire length of their run, and make each wire run as short as possible. Any time you cross a signal wire with a power wire, do so at right angles. As a general rule, don't run signal and power wires in runs parallel to each other unless they're seperated by at least 6 inches.

Most bluetooth automobile applications don't have as much interference (like structural metal) to deal with when placing the K-40 modules several feet away from the receiver, so that may be contributing to the problem you described.

Again, thanks for the info!

CC :seeya

Thank you also. If you could post a pic of what connector and what pin I WOULD REALLY appreciate it. Know what and where your talking about, not sure what's what though.

Thank you also. If you could post a pic of what connector and what pin I WOULD REALLY appreciate it. Know what and where your talking about, not sure what's what though.

One of the concerns I have is that many of the power lines are "always on" - in that they aren't ignition switched... So lit could be a possible source of battery drain on a car that tends to be pretty sensitive to low battery issues.

Perhaps locating a source of "ignition on" or "accsy" power should also be a consideration?

BAs for the Calibre, it's ok. I've never tested it using any accurate methods. It does go off before I see the cop with the laser/radar pointed at me.

The problems I'm reading with lots of detectors is that do a really bad job of two things...

A) They can't reject noise very well so it goes off when it shouldn't and the consequence of this is that you start to ignore the detector over time or start muting it... or worse, you end up turning it off at times because it becomes annoying.

B) The sensitivity and sweep speeds of the radio portion are not fast enough to reliably pick up POP and/or Instant-On radar modes that the new guns have... in that the chirp of radar the gun sends out it so quick and weak that the detector automatically rejects it as noise. This is one of the features that the V1 had to updated to deal with... I've seen tests where the radar gun will detect the speed of the vehicle but the detector didn't make a peep... its like you didn't even have a detector at all!

To each his own, but the issue for me is that I'd rather just not have a detector at all and keep my eyes peeled, rather than think that I have protection but really its not working against the current generation of guns.

I have a laser diffuser, not sure that works either. I haven't been pulled over for a while, so I can't really say.

I'm pretty certain that the diffuser on the K40 is not adequate for today's laser guns. the k40 unit is an LED based jammer, as is my Blinder M25's which are state-of-the-art LED jammers, and against the new guns they weren't good enough. And the Blinders are the top performers in the LED based catagory. Which why I'm ripping out my Blinders for the new laser-diode based Laser Interceptors.

I like the set up though, and not having additional clutter in my car is a great.

I don't find the V1 to be cluttered at all... I've used a vette visor mount that screws in and is high on the winshield, and I have a inviscord that gets power from the mirror so there are no wires.

http://www.invisicord.com

http://www.cau-llc.com/valentine.htm

As for laser jamming, there's nothing to it but a switch and an LED so its pretty stealthy.

I also thought that a "built in radar" detector was going to be great, but after reading things the best unit would be the Escort with the VR4 jammers but its been proven that the V1 performs better and the VR4 jammers aren't worth much either... so I ended up where I ended up. :)

Its really demoralizing to see how poorly my XLR-V did in the tests after installing all my stuff, but I figured its worth ripping it all out and starting over again to get a system that works than a system that MIGHT work. <shrug>

I agree, just in no mood to start all over. Maybe someone here can shed sme light on something I've heard. A friend once told me that installing a fishfinder/depth sensor (not sure which), from a boat, that utilized radar would throw off police radar guns. He said to mount the unit in the car and the sensor in the grill. Any thoughts?? It sounded logical at the time. I was drinking. :cheers

I agree, just in no mood to start all over. Maybe someone here can shed sme light on something I've heard. A friend once told me that installing a fishfinder/depth sensor (not sure which), from a boat, that utilized radar would throw off police radar guns. He said to mount the unit in the car and the sensor in the grill. Any thoughts?? It sounded logical at the time. I was drinking. :cheers

That doesn't seem too far fetched... but it would have to be in the same band as the radar gun in question... and radar guns operate in 3 bands and many freqs in those bands.... but the main issue would be that jamming radar runs is a federal offense breaking FCC laws plus any local laws about the issue as well... to each is own, and I understand that speeding is breaking the law too, but just food for thought.

As a former submarine sonar tech, I can assure you a fish finder or fathometer will not fool a police radar. These sonars transmit (through a water medium using a transducer) in Khz and a police radar operates in the Ghz bandwidth. They will however, give you a most excellent indication of the water depth or location of fish under the vehicle should you drive into a lake. You are entirely correct in that drinking will make most anything seem logical; --like driving into a lake.

As for a hot source, I'll break out the shop manuals and find a decent ignition switched source in the trunk area for you in a day or two. (I just sold my house and am busy moving out and cleaning.) The FTC module may or may not be the best choice, but I'll find something that meets your requirements if someone here doesn't beat me to it. After that, I'll have the rest of the week to play with my new Tech II!

CC :seeya

Thanks so much CCC. In no rush. Whenever you can. Now about that lake?Amazingly enough, that same night, I heard XLR's could float. Any thoughts on that one??!! :cheers

Regarding the positive reserve bouyancy of XLR's . . .

As a wise man repeatedly said to me: "Show me the data!"

CC :cheers

Looks like I'm gonna hafta try!

After reading through the schematics and poking around my own trunk, I think the easiest method of routing power to the rear-mounted bluetooth module would be from the center-mounted AUX Power connector between the seats. You'll have to lift the center console trim plate, which isn't bad and locate the 3 pin connector to the power receptacle. Be careful with the trim plate, as it dents easily. You'll have to remove the shift knob also before lifting the plate. (Also easy.) Just slide the chrome trim ring down and loosen the screw it hides that secures the knob to the stalk.

TRUST -BUT VERIFY: Use a multi-meter to ensure you have voltage and a good ground.

Pin A has a yellow wire supplying 12vdc, and pin C (black) is the ground, although you can find a decent ground on the chassis near your mounting location too. Pin B is unused.

After reflecting on it, I don't think tapping any module power lead is a good idea. This conflicts with my "Do No Harm" mantra regarding electrical mods.

Because of the unique design of the XLR's electrical system which eliminates a lot of wiring, there aren't a lot of readily available hot leads in the rear of this car. The Body Control Module under the passenger toe board has plenty of power, but the Accessory connector is closer to the trunk and supplies the switched voltage you need without risking any systems being affected. I hope this helps you. Keep us posted!

CC :cheers

After reading through the schematics and poking around my own trunk, I think the easiest method of routing power to the rear-mounted bluetooth module would be from the center-mounted AUX Power connector between the seats.

Are you sure its truly switched?

I haven't tested it directly, but when I looked the aux power in the storage compartment in the past, it seemed to stay on even with the ignition off... eventually it will shut down, but not until about 20mins...

Do I have this wrong?

The Aux Power receptacle is powered by the Aux Power relay, so it's "switched" in the sense that it's controlled by the RAP circuit. Bluetooth draw should be minimal, but an inline switch can be installed under the center console arm rest if it were an issue. My V1 uses the RAP circuit with no ill effects. If an ignition switched power source is required, then the BCM has it; it's just a little more work to run the wire, that's all.

Cadillac doesn't look favorably on ANY aftermarket accessories being used in these cars, so if in doubt, have a dealer make the connection.

CC :seeya

CC:

What about using the connection in the center console for the Aux cigarette lighter/ipod connection?

It is close to the right place and should be switched power.

CC:

What about using the connection in the center console for the Aux cigarette lighter/ipod connection?

It is close to the right place and should be switched power.

I thought that was what ccclarke was talking about - no?

Yea it may be.........

Both outlets are fed by the Aux Power Relay, have identical wire colors (yellow=hi/black=lo) but are fused (20 A ea.) seperately. Choose whatever is easiest for you to get at. Once you remove the (upper) center storage compartment's (4) T-15 screws, it's a snap to route wire from the center console into the trunk.

CC :cheers

CC:

When you get a chance, take a look at this component I found.

It is a "plug and play" insert in the diagnostic port that will allow you to use your current key fob to put the windows down remotely or to just "crack" them a little. There may be some other applications that we can dream up like put the top down.

www.TopDownTech.com

Regards

CC:

When you get a chance, take a look at this component I found.

It is a "plug and play" insert in the diagnostic port that will allow you to use your current key fob to put the windows down remotely or to just "crack" them a little. There may be some other applications that we can dream up like put the top down.

www.TopDownTech.com

Regards

I have one, its great. :)

Thanks All.

deadringer:

So have there been any issues after you installed it....

deadringer:

So have there been any issues after you installed it....

Nope - works as advertised. (shocking, I know)

There have been a few times that I thought maybe it was causing problems over the year or so I've had it, and once unplugging it I've found that its not related to the module.

I've since hardwired it into the class2 bus lead on my ipod kit at the harness of the XM radio module to free up the OBD port. Works fine there - 3 wire hookup (pos, neg, class2). If you want you can install a 2nd OBD port (OBDII Pigtail Kit on their site) for $30 - but I thought was a bit pricey for a plug so I just spliced it in.

Along the lines of "first do no harm", I would like to connect a few blue '12V LEDs' to my front headlamp or any lamp circuit that is on when the car is running at night. (no added switches) I have fab'd up a few LEDs to light my "grill crest". Had to repair the crest mounting, some crazy person pushed the crest and it became detached from the side screws. I see yellow, green and other colors of wire going to the front lamps, but wiring color codes are unknown to me. Thank you in advance for any help.

Along the lines of "first do no harm", I would like to connect a few blue '12V LEDs' to my front headlamp or any lamp circuit that is on when the car is running at night. (no added switches) I have fab'd up a few LEDs to light my "grill crest". Had to repair the crest mounting, some crazy person pushed the crest and it became detached from the side screws. I see yellow, green and other colors of wire going to the front lamps, but wiring color codes are unknown to me. Thank you in advance for any help.
Be careful here.

My understanding is that the LEO's are not too fond of these lights and MAY write a ticket in some areas.

I hooked my windrestrictor to a wireind harness by the top pump in the back. There was a switched and a non switched there.