This is really becoming a nunsance with the Key fob I'm not being able to get into the vechicle and have to use the spare key to pop open the trunk and pull the door hatch to get in. It's becoming more frequent more & more now and I am getting annoyed. I read that if you have a cellular on you it might cause interferance but I leave my cell at home now when I drive since I thought that could have been causing it but still same $hit is happening.

So I thought it could be the battery in the fob but it's throwing out a strong 3.0V on my multimeter and It's doing it with both key fobs 1 or 2. Now I am starting to believe it's the door antenna's but I mentioned the problem with the dealer but they said the door's were opening no problem for them so they couldn't replicate the problem . Don't they have a machine to check the antenna signals or something like that?

When I put the keyfob into the glovebox slot it will start up no problem and continue to work as normal after that but as soon as I leave the car parked overnight and come back same $hit is happening.

If anyone could help it would be much appreciated.

The car's (four) ferrite stick antennas do not transmit, they only receive a signal continuously emitted by the fob. There are two antennas for the doors located in the B pillars at door height, one for the trunk and one in the glovebox. The glovebox antenna is your "limp home" antenna (of last resort) and is also used to program the fobs. It provides a low-frequency coupling to the fob if the fob batteriy is dead or RF jamming prevents the other antennas from receiving a signal.

Enough special education. What you want is an answer to your problem. Your system is not programmed for the fobs to be recognized by the RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) module , so they aren't being sensed by the other three antennas, hence your frustration.

Program the fobs in accordance with your owner's manual. (I didn't read that you had attempted this in your post.) If that doesn't work, drive it to the dealer and let them do it. Did they work (for you) when you were at the dealer before? If not, I wouldn't have left until I was satisfied.

The RCDLR module polls the antennas at 125khz to determine the fob's location in relation to each other. The fob transmits at 315Mhz -way below your cellular phone band, (380-1990Mhz) so wherever your got your interference info from was erroneous. The engineers who designed the easy key system purposely designed the system so it wouldn't be negated by cell phones, which most people carry.

If the fobs are working and can't be recognized by the vehicle, your RCDLR may be faulty; again, your dealer can confirm or deny this for you.

When programmed properly, the easy key system is awesome. I wish my other cars had it, now that I've used it awhile.

Good luck,
CCC :cheers

I have a slightly different key fob problem... my driver's door won't open from the outside, but will by reaching inside and pushing the interior release button. I can get in fine from the outside using the passenger door. The car starts fine as well as all other fob operated devices. I have changed out the exterior door switch, but the problem still exists. I have also changed fob batteries, but haven't had the chance to check the results.

Tony:

Please forgive my lapse of memory. Here's a posting I did for your problem awhile back when I experienced the same thing on my 2004 XLR.

2004 XLR Key Fob Problems

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Cadillac has a "FIX" out for your weak signal key fobs.

NO FOB DETECTED (REPROGRAM FOBS) # 04-08-52-003-(04/07/2004)


MODELS AFFECTED: For those of you that have 04 models "Build Prior To and Including VIN Number 45602280.

This is when you get the DIC messages No Fob Detected when trying to start the vechicle OR No FOB, Off or Run?? Message. You MAY also experience reduced range when when passively entering the vechicle.

CAUSE: (The technical stuff) "Some keyless access transmitters may have been built with an incorrect valued capacitor causing reduced frequency range, passive functions such as starting and entry. The active function of manually pressing the buttons of the FOB is not affected by this concern because the active function operates at a higher frequency."

TRANSMITTERS AFFECTED: Are identified with GM/X and the part number on the back of the transmitter. TRANSMITTERS WITH GM/S and the part number ARE NOT affected.

The changes calls for 3 tenths of an hour BUT if there are problems it may take several hours since they will need to do a complete load and initialize your new key fobs.

IF YOU DO THIS: BE SURE TO BRING BOTH FOBS WITH YOU TO EXCHANGE FOR NEW ONES.

FWIW: THE CHANGE MAKES A SIGNIFICANT POSITIVE DIFFERENCE IN THE OVERALL OPERATION OF THE KEYLESS SYSTEM!!

I'am trying to use the instructions in the manual with no success thou I can't bring up the message on the screen so it says "ready for programming". I try turning the key five times with no success. Any help would be great!

Tony: Please read my posting just above your posting number 5. You may have a bad transmittor for your 2004 model.

Regards

My sensors are GM/S not GM/X so I don't think they are affected.

Rod,

If the wiring paths are good, you may have a faulty DDM (Driver Door Module.) It interfaces with the door switches to determine their state and reports via the class 2 data bus RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver.) A Tech II scan tool is what we both need! I'm most likely going to invest in one since it works with both of my cars and I hate not being able to troubleshoot even the simplest problems without it.

CC :seeya

Tony:

Oh well it was worth a try. Cadillac did replace a lot of the early systems via that notice.

Rod,

If the wiring paths are good, you may have a faulty DDM (Driver Door Module.) It interfaces with the door switches to determine their state and reports via the class 2 data bus RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver.) A Tech II scan tool is what we both need! I'm most likely going to invest in one since it works with both of my cars and I hate not being able to troubleshoot even the simplest problems without it.

CC :seeya
I decided to have James at Red Noland Cadillac in Colorado Springs check this problem out while on my way to the San Antonio XLR Rendezvous May 20-24. They are going to replace my top latch hoses also. Will post what they found out when I get back.

I decided to have James at Red Noland Cadillac in Colorado Springs check this problem out while on my way to the San Antonio XLR Rendezvous May 20-24. They are going to replace my top latch hoses also. Will post what they found out when I get back.

How did this go?

The gang is still in San Antonio, they probably won't be home until after Sunday.

Floyd

How did this go?
Got back from San Antonio, then went to a wedding for the weekend. Now, we're off to Yellowstone National Park with my brother and his family from New Jersey. Will have to go to work soon to relax!!!!
The work at Nolan Cadillac went real well... top works perfect once again. They also had one software upgrade for the left door window express, which they installed. The tech told me I needed a new DCM, which comes with the window regulator as one unit, in order for the door latch to operate, but it has worked perfectly since I got the car back. Perhaps the window express software upgrade did the trick. Guess I'll have to wait and see, but two weeks later and life is still good...