I had my headlights replaced yesterday, and I'm not happy with the way they fit on the hood or engine side. They are about 1/4" low. The service Manager said they used a shim kit, but I don't believe him.

I had my headlights replaced yesterday, and I'm not happy with the way they fit on the hood or engine side. They are about 1/4" low. The service Manager said they used a shim kit, but I don't believe him.

Had our's replaced right after BG .... Perfect fit. :thumbs

Don't buy the bad fit. :cry They need to figure out how to do it right. :skep

SilverX

I had my headlights replaced yesterday, and I'm not happy with the way they fit on the hood or engine side. They are about 1/4" low. The service Manager said they used a shim kit, but I don't believe him.

I just got mine replaced and cannot tell if they are out of alignment (not flush or not). I could not see a way that I could improve the installation myself (or do it differently) so I don't think I could complain about the install job. But my headlight aim is still off so they obviously aren't symertrical.

Galen could we get a picture of what you think is wrong about your headlight install to help us (me specifically) visualize where you think they are a 1/4" low?

Ben

Had mine replaced a few weeks ago again under warranty. They also claimed they used the shim kit. The beam seems ok except for that shadow out about 100'ft under low beam, but they all seem to have that. I saw the top of the left one was a tad high. I just turned the car wheels hard to one side, used my plug/clip remover tool popped out the plugs, saw the screws and in minutes had them out did my own shiming with some cut out pieces of inner tube and viola' perfect.
jim

Ben, I hope this shows well enough. [URL=http://imageshack.us]http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/7463/dsc01623fu5.jpg http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/6962/dsc01621jr7.jpg http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/6424/dsc01613hx7.jpg

whoa.... no way Galen .... that is NOT right .... our's are completely flush .... I just went out and checked again ..... I agree with SilverX .... don't accept that fit.:nodno

Wow......! :eek Ask them is they had left over parts !!!! That is not acceptable by any standard. :nodno Is the fit bad on the right and left side?

SilverX

They DEFINITELY did something wrong!!!!

I would ask that they redo it. There are shims but not that thick. It lookslike the rubber seal is missing. Did you talk with the Service manger?

Regards

They DEFINITELY did something wrong!!!!

I would ask that they redo it. There are shims but not that thick. It lookslike the rubber seal is missing. Did you talk with the Service manger?

Regards

Yes, Galen ... there is a black rubber gasket between the car and the light ... can't see in your pictures of that is there or not.

Absolutely wrong! I can't believe how off they are.

I had my lenses replaced a month ago. They were warned of the fit-check I was going to do and they ordered the shim kit for that reason. Both of mine are perfectly flush and the rubber gasket is consistant the entire perimeter.

You've got to get them to fix it. It will plague you every time you see it.

I was stuck in traffic because Clinton is in town. The police are already treating her like she is president! Well while I'm sitting there listening to the comedy channel, the dash dings and bell sound, and says "check gas cap" Well, I' m just sitting there so I get out and my gas cap won't tighten. I call the dealer and talk to service, They said drop by, won't take long. They put the Tech 2 on it and cleared the code and replaced the gas cap. 5 minutes total. And he agreed they did a $hitty job. I'm going out of town next week so I'll call them when I get back.

I was stuck in traffic because Clinton is in town. The police are already treating her like she is president! Well while I'm sitting there listening to the comedy channel, the dash dings and bell sound, and says "check gas cap" Well, I' m just sitting there so I get out and my gas cap won't tighten. I call the dealer and talk to service, They said drop by, won't take long. They put the Tech 2 on it and cleared the code and replaced the gas cap. 5 minutes total. And he agreed they did a $hitty job. I'm going out of town next week so I'll call them when I get back.

Well, I'll stay clear of the politics part ...... :lol
but, gosh, Galen .... it appears that your car and ours have identical problems (had the gas cap replaced on the way to BG) within a very short time of each other ..... look out for the power steering whine ... :eek :eek :banghead

Well, this is the question I have been asking myself ever since I drove my car in the dark the first time after getting the new headlights installed.

I finally took the time to find it in the service manual and guess what?

Step 13 states. "Inspect the headlamp for proper operation and aim if required. Refer to Headlamp Aiming (Visual Method) on page 8-563 or...."

I guess that leaves it up to the technician's best judgment if he should aim our headlights for us after they are installed. and to be fair, it doesn't tell him to check the aim of the headlights after installation. Also nowhere in the procedure does it call for a 'flush' check or mention spacers or fit anywhere. But the procedure does go into enough detail to tell him to "14. Close the hood." so maybe they are just uncapable of deviating from the posted procedure - no wait - when they installed my XLR badging on the passenger side they 'eyeballed' it for placement. And wouldn't you know it - there is a procedure for that one too. :rant

I guess I just got a little fed up and needed to vent a little. This week I aimed my headlights, got the gas cap message, and am having my trunk not open or close without my motive force being applied to open and shut it. I think the signal to turn open the right valves in the hydraulic manifold is getting lost and of course the dealership's reply is, "well Mr Hofman, we relearned the trunk operating procedure and that should fix the problem." ARRRGH!

By the way the little TORX #15 or whatever the owners manual calls out for during headlamp aiming is full of crap. I used a 7/32 hex head and aimed them in a few minutes. I could not find the horizontal aim point and it is not pictured in the owners manual so here is a shot from the service manual for my (05) XLR.

Best of luck to all,
Ben.

PS the 1 is for Horizontal (left to right) and 2 is Vertical (not left to right). When I was aiming them I couldn't find the #1 adjustment knob to adjust it, and still have not gone back to look and see if it is there. I could only find the #2 knob but that was the obvious adjustment (I had 2 horizontal lines cast by my headlights, they gave my car back to me with a lazy eye!)

Step 13 states. "Inspect the headlamp for proper operation and aim if required. Refer to Headlamp Aiming (Visual Method) on page 8-563 or...."



I may be wrong but here is how I interpret Step 13: In order for the tech to decide if the headlamp requires alignment, they need to check it using the visual method on 8-563. It is not optional to check it, alignment may not be necessary if the headlamp preset is right on target. :skep

SilverX

Let's face facts here guys...............the techs get X amount of money to install the lights, do you really think they are going to go above and beyond by checking the setting on them? Whatever happened to states that demanded your headlights where aligned correctly, like Jersey?I may be wrong but here is how I interpret Step 13: In order for the tech to decide if the headlamp requires alignment, they need to check it using the visual method on 8-563. It is not optional to check it, alignment may not be necessary if the headlamp preset is right on target. :skep

SilverX

I had my headlights replaced yesterday, and I'm not happy with the way they fit on the hood or engine side. They are about 1/4" low. The service Manager said they used a shim kit, but I don't believe him.

Why did you go and replace them in the first place?


Hi, everyone my first post on this forum.

L

They are being replaced because the heat from the bulbs is melting the outer plastic or deforming it.
Welcome aboard
BobWhy did you go and replace them in the first place?


Hi, everyone my first post on this forum.

L

Mine were replaced two days ago because of the same melting. They are flush and there certainly is a rubber gasket that is visible. You guys are correct that the body tech only gets paid a certain amount based on the amount of "replacement" time in the book. My son is a body tech, and unfortunately, the book is written with someone who is totally focused on the one thing he is doing, with no interruptions, AND with every tool that they will need neatly arranged in front of them - what I'm saying is that it's a best case, and unrealistic amount of time(usually too little) that they are paid on. Don't blame the body tech because this is the way that the auto body industry has gone. On the other hand - make them do it right.

If you ever wonder what happens to the melted headlights that so many of us are having replaced, just take a look on eBay.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CADILLAC-XLR-HEADLIGHT-XENON-04-05-06_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33710QQihZ006QQitemZ 160164753722QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

They show some really good photos of the condition reported. I don't know why someone would spend $185.00 for trash.

Mine were replaced two days ago because of the same melting. They are flush and there certainly is a rubber gasket that is visible. You guys are correct that the body tech only gets paid a certain amount based on the amount of "replacement" time in the book. My son is a body tech, and unfortunately, the book is written with someone who is totally focused on the one thing he is doing, with no interruptions, AND with every tool that they will need neatly arranged in front of them - what I'm saying is that it's a best case, and unrealistic amount of time(usually too little) that they are paid on. Don't blame the body tech because this is the way that the auto body industry has gone. On the other hand - make them do it right.

Headlamp replacement pays 4 tenths of an hour or 24 minutes per side.

Bruce

Bruce,

What is the average time actually needed for the replacement? Just curious.

Floyd

If you ever wonder what happens to the melted headlights that so many of us are having replaced, just take a look on eBay.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CADILLAC-XLR-HEADLIGHT-XENON-04-05-06_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33710QQihZ006QQitemZ 160164753722QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

They show some really good photos of the condition reported. I don't know why someone would spend $185.00 for trash.

If you needed a good bulb or ballast it would actually be somewhat worth it.

not your problem what the tech gets paid.....now he has to do it right for free:nodno if you don't have time to do it right the first time....do you have time to do it right the second time?

It should be noted on e-bay that the lense is distorted, this is a bogus ad.
BobIf you needed a good bulb or ballast it would actually be somewhat worth it.

WOW! From the looks of it, the day-time running bulbs did the melting not the HID. I do usually turn me day-times off. Now I'm definitely going to do it more often.

I am happy to say that this hasn't accord to me, yet. But with this car you never know. Mines currently at the dealer. Needs new radiator(old one had a slow leak), right side Cat was running to rich/lean needs new O2 sensor and new air filters(which I cleaned out like a month ago). And it has less them 20k on the odometer!

Am I missing anything else? Oh and the top problems too.

I have a brand new 08' Escalade rental so I'm not that bummed.

I ran from California to Bowling Green twice with my lights on, not my daytime runniing lights and have no trouble with 17,000 miles. Guess I just chose the right setting and got lucky.
BobWOW! From the looks of it, the day-time running bulbs did the melting not the HID. I do usually turn me day-times off. Now I'm definitely going to do it more often.

I am happy to say that this hasn't accord to me, yet. But with this car you never know. Mines currently at the dealer. Needs new radiator(old one had a slow leak), right side Cat was running to rich/lean needs new O2 sensor and new air filters(which I cleaned out like a month ago). And it has less them 20k on the odometer!

Am I missing anything else? Oh and the top problems too.

I have a brand new 08' Escalade rental so I'm not that bummed.

I ran from California to Bowling Green twice with my lights on, not my daytime runniing lights and have no trouble with 17,000 miles. Guess I just chose the right setting and got lucky.
Bob

I usually just click the fog light switch.. It turns the fogs (and the parking lights?) on and the DRLs off.

I usually just click the fog light switch.. It turns the fogs (and the parking lights?) on and the DRLs off.
I do the same (when I can remember). It's usually when I come up behind someone at a stop light that I see the amber lights and switch to the fog lights. I had my headlights replaced due to the melting problem and am now gun-shy on them melting again. I wish the switch for "daylight" to "fog" position was an on-off rather than temp position switch. I'd run fog all the time.

The melting problem is due to a vendor problem not the amount of time the DRL were on. The new headlamps are by a new vendor and the melting problem should not reoccur.

The amount of time it should pay should be 8 tenths to an hour to be fair. After replacement ,you have to tag each part and return to parts to have the ticket signed off for warranty. Then fill out the repair order with the labor times( That you look up) and cause and correction. If the ticket is not filled properly the ticket can be denied payment. Park the car and turn in the keys and paperwork. When the car first came out it paid 8 tenths, since then the time has been reduced.

Bruce

Bruce, I had the second V in California and have always used my driving lights plus fog lights during the daytime and nightime and have no issue with my lenses at all. Don't get me wrong, I'm very pleased that I haven't had the problem, but would like to know what I'm doing right.
BobThe melting problem is due to a vendor problem not the amount of time the DRL were on. The new headlamps are by a new vendor and the melting problem should not reoccur.

The amount of time it should pay should be 8 tenths to an hour to be fair. After replacement ,you have to tag each part and return to parts to have the ticket signed off for warranty. Then fill out the repair order with the labor times( That you look up) and cause and correction. If the ticket is not filled properly the ticket can be denied payment. Park the car and turn in the keys and paperwork. When the car first came out it paid 8 tenths, since then the time has been reduced.

Bruce

I think a lot of it may have to do with the year of your XLR. I don't think there has been a problem with the '06-'07 cars. Time will tell.

Bruce

A word to the wise, be sure to check alignment after replacement. After so many have now had their melted headlight replaced, it's a really good idea to do your own alignment check.

On the way home from a bluegrass concern tonight, XLR ANN was following me and I saw first-hand a bad case of "lazy eye." One headlight is definitely out of vertical alignment. I had done an alignment downward before BG to compensate for the head-on "flashes" I was getting from oncoming traffic, but the replacement of the lights after BG has apparently undone my alignment job. Even if you simple drive around the block with your XLR following, you'll be surprised how poor the alignment will show.

Bruce, I had the second V in California and have always used my driving lights plus fog lights during the daytime and nightime and have no issue with my lenses at all. Don't get me wrong, I'm very pleased that I haven't had the problem, but would like to know what I'm doing right.
Bob

Bob, the DRL's turn off when you have your fog lights on. I noticed that on the few occasions I was in front of you on the way to BG.

Kent , that may be true, but at night the DRL's and fog lamps can be on at the same time unless you click high beams. Probably has something to do with the photo cell for daytime driving.
Thanks
BobBob, the DRL's turn off when you have your fog lights on. I noticed that on the few occasions I was in front of you on the way to BG.

I had my headlights replaced yesterday, and I'm not happy with the way they fit on the hood or engine side. They are about 1/4" low. The service Manager said they used a shim kit, but I don't believe him. Update to my headlight fitting problem: Got the car back this afternoon and all is well. Fits perfectly. The tech said that he had to adjust the fender because the shim kit was not enough to get the right fit. Then he reinstalled the headlight. No shim kit was needed. I think he went well above and beyond. BTW, my headlights were aligned also. I'm very happy with their work. Update on wheels: Asanti AF134's 20" mid-November.

Update to my headlight fitting problem: Got the car back this afternoon and all is well. Fits perfectly. The tech said that he had to adjust the fender because the shim kit was not enough to get the right fit. Then he reinstalled the headlight. No shim kit was needed. I think he went well above and beyond. BTW, my headlights were aligned also. I'm very happy with their work. Update on wheels: Asanti AF134's 20" mid-November.

Chrome lip or black??

Glad to hear that the headlights are done with ....

now don't forget to take some pictures when those wheels get here! :seeya :seeya

"Chrome lip or black??" Chrome. Almost went with a machined face on the spoke, with a black highlight but at the last minute was out voted to chrome face.