Has anyone come up with a chip for the standard XLR to make more h/p? I've put the corsa exhaust and am considering the air intake, but would like to get this car tuned for more performance. Your thoughts....:ocool

There is no "chip" to add increased horsepower. Today's cars use flash chips for the engine control and vehicle control modules that can be over-riden using software to provide increased performance. This is the so-called tuning process about which I've made numerous posts on this forum. Please search and review those and post whatever other questions you may have.

Where can you get the chips?

Where can you get the chips?

You already have the chips; flash memory is a reprogrammable way of storing computer data. Tuners plug into the port under your steering wheel and change the program whith a specialized computer. This is usually done on a dyno - car running in different configurations to fine tune the engine and drive train programs.

Stick with the factory version or plan on a couple of hundred for someone who knows what they are doing and knows how you want to drive.

I may get mine tuned and dyno when I go back to Bowling Green. It's just another 1/2 day north, but what I'm worried about, what happens when you disconnect the battery or Cadillac does a computer overhaul............do we loose our tuning?
Probably, if I know anything about computers.You already have the chips; flash memory is a reprogrammable way of storing computer data. Tuners plug into the port under your steering wheel and change the program whith a specialized computer. This is usually done on a dyno - car running in different configurations to fine tune the engine and drive train programs.

Stick with the factory version or plan on a couple of hundred for someone who knows what they are doing and knows how you want to drive.

I may get mine tuned and dyno when I go back to Bowling Green. It's just another 1/2 day north, but what I'm worried about, what happens when you disconnect the battery or Cadillac does a computer overhaul............do we loose our tuning?
Probably, if I know anything about computers.


disconnecting the battery would not effect it, but if they "flash" the computer, it basically resets everything back to stock, including any "learned" driving habbits.

That's what I'm worried about. Under what circumstances would they flash the computer?disconnecting the battery would not effect it, but if they "flash" the computer, it basically resets everything back to stock, including any "learned" driving habbits.

That's what I'm worried about. Under what circumstances would they flash the computer?



it's my understanding that there is a service bulliten out to flash it every time you come in for service. The learning capabilities of the computer are so good that with an aggressive driver (like myself) the car gets too smart (aggressive) and it became a liability issue. The service bulliten has been out for a long time, and I instruct my service writer to never flash my car, but they got me the last time I was in.:banghead

Thanks Mike, guess you just saved me and Hans an extra two days to go to this motorsports place up in Michigan and a few hundred bucks. I owe you lunch, that would be my choice for the lunch, not yours. OH look, there's a penny on the ground.:lol :lol :lol [info@livernoismotorsports.com (info@livernoismotorsports.com)


quote=1_XLR;17100]it's my understanding that there is a service bulliten out to flash it every time you come in for service. The learning capabilities of the computer are so good that with an aggressive driver (like myself) the car gets too smart (aggressive) and it became a liability issue. The service bulliten has been out for a long time, and I instruct my service writer to never flash my car, but they got me the last time I was in.:banghead[/quote]

I added an ECU that plugs in above the air sensor and with no other changes realized a 20 RWHP Gain as measured on a Dynojet with and without plugged in. The piece is easly installed and removed with standard plugs. Its been installed for about 3 months. Increase performance is noticable.

What does it do to get the gain REDV?

I may get mine tuned and dyno when I go back to Bowling Green. It's just another 1/2 day north, but what I'm worried about, what happens when you disconnect the battery or Cadillac does a computer overhaul............do we loose our tuning?
Probably, if I know anything about computers.

The tuning should be stored in EEPROM. They should not be erased if battery is disconnected. For example, your key fob code is stored in the receiver in the car. Even if you loose battery, the receiver still has your key code stored in EEPROM and still recognize your key fob.

What does it do to get the gain REDV?

I am not knowledgeable is the area of tuning, but I will share the little I know. It is my understanding that the ECU is intercepting the signal from the air sensor and modifying it prior to going to the main computer. The mechanics at the speed shop where I had the dyno performed were very impressed with the improvement / change. This was the first xlrv they had on the dyno so everyone stopped what they were doing to watch. When they ran the dyno they also monitored fuel air mixture and showed me on the graph how it changed / improved.
The ECU will be reflashed (changed to accommodate the increased air flow) as soon as I add the new air in-takes. They are not yet ready for sale. I am hoping they will be available before the B.G. trip. They will be similar to the Volant, in addition, they will produce replacements for the air intakes from the throttle body to the front. I paid $650.00 for the ECU and re-flash will be 100.00. The new air intakes combined with the ECU should result in 405RWHP. They are also making a pulley to increase boost.

RedV

I don't have a V, but noticed a site that offered a "chip" similar to what you described, may be the same one, let me know. It's at a site called SLR Motorsports, sounds interesting but hard to believe. Big horsepower gain, better gas mileage, plug and play, uses signals to existing ECU. Anybody else seen or heard about this?

This all sounds great and I was considering it until I read that Cadillac / GM will void your powertrain warranty if they find that the ECU programming has been modified. I guess I am stuck with stock for another three years!

This from the SLR Motorsports FAQ page:



Q: Will the SLR Motorsports Performance Chip void my vehicle's warranty?
A: NO! This is the best reason to add the SLR Motorsports Performance Chip to your vehicle! Most performance products will void your warranty, however the SLR Performance Chip will not void or negatively impact your vehicles warranty in any way!

This all sounds great and I was considering it until I read that Cadillac / GM will void your powertrain warranty if they find that the ECU programming has been modified. I guess I am stuck with stock for another three years!

Interesting Link Klap,

After checking out the SLR Motorsports page, I noticed their info for every performance chip is generic, and that leads me to believe their statements regarding manufacturer's warranties could be also. As a general rule, GM dealerships aren't always amenable to doing warranty work on performance-modified vehicles when it comes to upgraded tuning. Just to CMA, I'd personally check with my Service Manager before adding any aftermarket tuning enhancements to ensure there won't be a hassle if the dealer discovers my car's programming has been modified. If their module plugs into the data port under the steering column, or another easy-to-reach conector, it would be easy enough to disconnect prior to taking the vehicle in for service.

There wasn't any dyno info either, which would be beneficial when making a buying decision. While reading the FAQ, I asked myself, "If this chip is so wonderous and adds HP and milage, why don't the manufacturer's tune the car accordingly?" This isn't black magic, and the performance gains/milage savings would be great for marketing.

Sure enough, under their "How it Works" section they ask the same question and give a fuzzy answer, without a real follow-up (I think the operative words are, "at any given RPM", but hate quessing) :

. . . So here’s the real question, why would vehicle manufacturers put a bad tune on each ECU that they build? Each manufacturer builds and constructs a vehicle to create the maximum HP and MPG at any given RPM for marketing and sale purposes. . . .

As someone much wiser once taught me when making claims: "Show me the data." Has anyone out there installed this mod in their XLR and had their car before/after dyno'd?

I'm not saying their claims are bogus, I just want to know how substanciated they are before considering this upgrade. Adjectives are nice, but data rules. In the meantime, I'll shoot them an email for XLR-specific data and post the results if they send me anything.

CC :cheers

Ok, lets get serious about horse power/torque!

I don't care about warranties, I just want to be the first one across the intersection!:cool:seeya

Has anyone looked into dual turbos for the 4.6L VVT Northstar engine that's in my 06 XLR or NOS?

I've been thinking of replacing the stock engine with the GM ZZ572/720.

Anyone want to make me an offer on my stock engine? It only has 26k miles on it and gets 30mpg on the highway. We won't mention city mpg cause I don't due much of that in the XLR.

Jack

Jack:

You need to talk with D3 Performance. They seem to have done the most in improving the horsepower and torque on the XLr's and XLR-V's..

Regards

Jerry

A Note, burried in their literature, is the statement that their claims do not include supercharged or turbocharged cars. I thought this curious since they specifically itemize the XLR V. So, I sent them a note asking for clarification, that was a week ago, and I have not as yet heard back. So, caviat emptor!

Rusty

Interesting Link Klap,

After checking out the SLR Motorsports page, I noticed their info for every performance chip is generic, and that leads me to believe their statements regarding manufacturer's warranties could be also. As a general rule, GM dealerships aren't always amenable to doing warranty work on performance-modified vehicles when it comes to upgraded tuning. Just to CMA, I'd personally check with my Service Manager before adding any aftermarket tuning enhancements to ensure there won't be a hassle if the dealer discovers my car's programming has been modified. If their module plugs into the data port under the steering column, or another easy-to-reach conector, it would be easy enough to disconnect prior to taking the vehicle in for service.

There wasn't any dyno info either, which would be beneficial when making a buying decision. While reading the FAQ, I asked myself, "If this chip is so wonderous and adds HP and milage, why don't the manufacturer's tune the car accordingly?" This isn't black magic, and the performance gains/milage savings would be great for marketing.

Sure enough, under their "How it Works" section they ask the same question and give a fuzzy answer, without a real follow-up (I think the operative words are, "at any given RPM", but hate quessing) :

. . . So here’s the real question, why would vehicle manufacturers put a bad tune on each ECU that they build? Each manufacturer builds and constructs a vehicle to create the maximum HP and MPG at any given RPM for marketing and sale purposes. . . .

As someone much wiser once taught me when making claims: "Show me the data." Has anyone out there installed this mod in their XLR and had their car before/after dyno'd?

I'm not saying their claims are bogus, I just want to know how substanciated they are before considering this upgrade. Adjectives are nice, but data rules. In the meantime, I'll shoot them an email for XLR-specific data and post the results if they send me anything.

CC :cheers

They haven't replied to my questions either, so the quest for a documented, bona fide performance chip for the 2004-2005 XLRs continues. D3 lists one on their site with some data, but their plug and play chip is for 2006-2008 XLR/XLR-Vs only.

CC :cheers

Jack:

You need to talk with D3 Performance. They seem to have done the most in improving the horsepower and torque on the XLr's and XLR-V's..

Regards

Jerry

Thanks Jerry but they say they've done all they can but their chip/retune on dyno won't work on my XLR for some reason. They couldn't remove the 155 mph limiter from my software.
In Feb. of 08 I had them change the exhaust and air intake to Corsa and Volant respectively and they did before and after dyno runs.

The before dyno figures were:
h/p = 270.2 @ 5496 rpm.
ft/lb = 287.4 @ 4280 rpm.

The after dyno figures were:
h/p = 292.8 @ 6204 rpm.
ft/lb = 308.6 @ 4429 rpm.

The gain was 22.7 in h/p and 20.6 ft/lbs of torque and that is measured with the dyno connected directly to the rear wheel hub, meaning no tire and roller system. They say that this system is measuring h/p and ft/lb at the Fly Wheel rather than at the drive/rear wheels.

As I said before, their s/w would not work on my car for some reason so I'm still running stock software.

I haven't taken the car to a Drag Strip but I know that when the engine rpms hit between 3800 and 4400, it feels like it went into passing gear. The torque jumps from about 282 ft/lbs @ 3800 rpms to 309.5 ft/lbs @ 4429 rpms and the h/p jumps about 35 in the same rev range.

I should give them a call and find out if they ever got the upgraded software and take my car back into them for re-tuning.

I was just kidding about changing the engine, I'd only do that if the 4.6L died on me.

I am serious about the Dual Turbos though.

Jack,

I saw a XLR-V engine for sale on e-bay a few weeks back. That might be the easiest swap. Then again it might be cheaper to sell your XLR and just buy a V.

BTW I saw in your other post that you once had a 1966 Charger. I had a '68 Charger RT with the 440 engine. Wish I wouldn't have sold it. That was a real beast, but the XLR-V would blow it's doors off!!!

Steven

There is a company that makes rear mounted turbos (mount in place of the stock mufflers). The system seemed pretty cool. I looked into this when I had my base 06. Since the XLR shares a lot with the vette, the system would fit fairly well, without body mods. The only issue, AGAIN, is finding someone to do the tune.

Thanks Jerry but they say they've done all they can but their chip/retune on dyno won't work on my XLR for some reason. They couldn't remove the 155 mph limiter from my software.
In Feb. of 08 I had them change the exhaust and air intake to Corsa and Volant respectively and they did before and after dyno runs.

The before dyno figures were:
h/p = 270.2 @ 5496 rpm.
ft/lb = 287.4 @ 4280 rpm.

The after dyno figures were:
h/p = 292.8 @ 6204 rpm.
ft/lb = 308.6 @ 4429 rpm.

The gain was 22.7 in h/p and 20.6 ft/lbs of torque and that is measured with the dyno connected directly to the rear wheel hub, meaning no tire and roller system. They say that this system is measuring h/p and ft/lb at the Fly Wheel rather than at the drive/rear wheels.

As I said before, their s/w would not work on my car for some reason so I'm still running stock software.

I haven't taken the car to a Drag Strip but I know that when the engine rpms hit between 3800 and 4400, it feels like it went into passing gear. The torque jumps from about 282 ft/lbs @ 3800 rpms to 309.5 ft/lbs @ 4429 rpms and the h/p jumps about 35 in the same rev range.

I should give them a call and find out if they ever got the upgraded software and take my car back into them for re-tuning.

I was just kidding about changing the engine, I'd only do that if the 4.6L died on me.

I am serious about the Dual Turbos though.
You may want to talk with Nick Trask. He has done a ton in turbo performance.

If he doesn't want to do it I am sure he would be pleased to point you to someone who would.

Onalaska,

One of the really great features of my 06 XLR is the Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC). I use it 90% of the time I'm drive the XLR because when I go on a trip of over 100 miles I take it. The ACC is not available in the V series from what I've been told and besides, I like to have my vehicles just a little bit different than anyone elses.
Then there's the cost of another XLR. Why should I go into debt when I don't owe any money on mine and it only has 26K miles on it.
For driving around town, I have an 04 Chevy Impala and for toy hauling, I use my 00 Dodge Durango 5.7L 4X4.

StarBlack225,

Thank you for the information about the rear mounted turbos, I went to the Corvette Forum and went to the link and found the article about ECS (East Coast Superchargers).
The article about their system was QUITE INFORMATIVE and PROMISING. I am going to contact them and find out if they would like to tackle the job of installing their system on my Starblack Premium Model XLR.
Of course, the re-programming of the ECM would probably be the biggest road block of this project.

XLR I FL,

I do not know Mr. Nick Trask, how can I contact him?

I'd Like to thank you all for your comments, suggestions and other information.
Perhaps we can sit down and chat at R-IV, IF WE EVER HAVE ONE!

Jack:seeya

Hey Jack,

I've spoken to another guy named Chuck Cow. I'm guessing you're on the east coast. He's in westchester, ny. He's the guy that does the programing for Corvettes at Carlisle. He may be able to help with tuning. PM me if you need info.

Dom

OK, I did "add more h/p" to more 06 XLR for less than $1,000.00!

I contacted that outfit in New Jersy (by the way, I'm in So.Calif.) that the rear mounted Turbo Chargers on a 06 Corvette and after they researched the 4.6L Northstar VVT engine that's in my XLR they decided they could not successfully do the rear mounted Turbos to my XLR because they only do the Corvettes. In other words, they couldn't reprogram the ECU. (It seems no one can do any reprogramming to my ECM because it's a Sieman (or some name like that).

I found a company here on the west coast by the name of e-Racing Motorsports LLC that makes a product called ".e..RAM ELECTRIC Supercharger". I purchased a pair of these units and replaced the K&N filters on the Volant intake system with these units. The .e..RAM units come with smaller, in length, K&N filters and fit about the same as the larger filters.
These units are wired up through two relays, one per unit, then directly to the battery. The relays are controlled by a micro-switch that is mounted behind the gas pedal and should only turn on the .e..RAM units at full throttler.
After I installed the units, I took my car out for a test run and the first tests where not very encouraging. I could feel any change in performance at full throttler though I had tested the positioning of the controlling micro-switch with the engine off.
I then added a manifold vacuum/boost gage to the system and an green LED that is wired directly to the .e..RAM input voltage so it lights only when the .e..RAM motors are receiving voltage.
These units will produce about 1.7 inches of boost, (.85 per unit) which means when your throttle is fully open, you will see a very slight positive indication on the vacuum/boost gage. When trying this, I would HIGHLY RECCOMEND having a passenger in the vehicle to watch the LED and the gage because you'll be in passing rear and you had better be watching where you're going!
After making this mod, I still did not see any increase in performance, in fact, it felt like I lost some.
After running this test a couple of times, the Check Engine indicator light came on the the code result was the engine fuel mixture was too lean.
I thought about this situation and remembered on my 1985 Toyota MR-2 with a 1.5L four cyclinder, eight input ports had five fuel injectors. the fifth injector was mounted just behind the Throttle Body and was energized only when the engine reached 4500 rpm and full throttle. It was also used a COLD START injector.
Then I remember a friend of mine had a late 70s model fuel injected Corvette that had a Cold Start injector that went out on him and he had trouble starting his car on really cold mornings until he took it in for service and found out the electrical connector had a problem and was not working. After the dealer fixed this problem his engine started just fine although his fuel mileage dropped a little.
Soo, I purchased one of these injectors from a local auto parts store and removed the Volant Intake system with the .e..RAM units and the engine Throttle Body. Them I stuffed a rage into the intake chamber and using the injector mounting gasket, marked the round intake housing for the three holes I had to drill. Two small mounting holes where drilled and tapped 1/4-20 and a larger ~ 3/4" for the injector nozzle.
I mounted the injector at an angle of about 30 degrees off top center or about 10:30 veiwing the intake housing from the front of the car. This was done so there was plenty of clearence for the electrical connection when the engine cover is replaced.
Connection to the injector fuel supply was surprisingly simple. The injector fuel supply line crosses over the top of the engine just behind the intake and Throttle Body.
Just to the left of center of this cross over tubing is a relief valve.
There is a black screw on cap over this valve and a relief valve just like a valve on your tires, except the component are designed for handling gasoline rather than air.
I relieved the fuel line pressure using a small baby food jar to capture the fuel while opening the valve with the head of a small finishing nail.
The outer configuration of this valve is a standard flanged tubing type and a one piece threaded female to 3/16" rubber type flexible FUEL INJECTOR hose on the other end.
VERY IMPORTANT NOTE! BESURE YOU USE FUEL INJECTOR HOSE AS IT IS DESIGNED TO HANDLE HIGH PRESSURE FUEL!!
The hardest part of this installation was locating the hollow 8mm bolt and Banjo tube fitting to connect the fuel line to the injector. ( This "Banjo" tube fitting gets it's name from it's configuration, as it looks like a Banjo.)
After calling ALL the auto parts stores in So. Calif. and taking the fuel injector into several of them as some of them didn't even understand what I was looking for.
I finally found one store with a person who was familar with the type of connection I was trying to make. He had a kit with various sizes of these hollow metric bolts but was out of the Banjo tube connector and he was unsure as to when or if the owner of the store would order any of these kits because they hadn't sold any of these parts since the mid 80s.
So I made my own using my little Jenkins Lathe. (It looks more like the Banjo I made from a cigar box and a piece of 1/2" x 1" wood when I was in the Cub Scouts.) But it works!
You're probably asking yourself "Why didn't he go to a junk yard?" Well, that is where I started and the way this injector is connected to the fuel line on a Corvette engine is under the square crossover tube with a hollow stud and it would have been much easier to drill a 1/8th" hole in a 8mm bolt lengthwise, startin from the threaded end and stopping just below the hex head and then drilling 3 more holes, 3/16th of an inch below the head at 120 degrees for the fuel input to the injector.
After getting all the mechanical stuff done, I designed and built a variable pulse generator and through trial and error, tried to find just the right pulse width to get the maximum performance out of the system. I first started out by using the #1 cyclinder's injector's pulses as a reference to control the switching of the "9th" injector but was still getting the "Lean mixture" Check Engine code.
I finally just connected the injector's electrical connection to the .e..RAM's and SHAZAM!!!, I was forced back into my seat!
The engine really responded to the setup and now I know I have increased the horsepower somewhere between 8 and 10 percent.
I've been trying to get the car on a Dino to find out just how many "Thorough-breds" are under my hood.
I've talked to D-3 and they were trying to setup something for me but I've had other more important personal things happening in my life, such as becoming a Great-Grandfather for the first time!
And thanks to my crappy telephone line and my DSL provider, my DSL has been down since our last rain storm! It finally came up this morning enough for me to get this out to you-all.
I'll try to get some pics later, perhaps after I get the Dino results.

Jack

Ooops, please forgive the typos.

...more 06 s/b my 06...

... ECU...ECM... same unit, what-ever, I think you get the picture.

My computer is acting up and I am in a hurry to get this done before it dies again!

Jack

Great stuff, thanks. I was looking and noticed that they have a lot of other products on their website, too. Did you get the 5% or 8.5% HP boosted supercharger? I'm into Camaros quite a bit, and they offered two versions of the product for about $200 more. A little pricey at $500, but a heck of a lot cheaper than the turbos online for $5000. It sucks, because the turbo costs more than the camaros I like (1987-1998), but they give a serious boost (56% hp boost....WOW!).

OK guys....let's get real. Now if you are an engineer in the GM engine department, and could get more horsepower out of an engine and at the same time get better mileage by a simple "chip" or re-program, don't you think you might just go for it? This is the classic "free lunch" or "if it is too good to be true, it probably isn't true" kind of gimmick. I worked in the engine lab at Oregon State Univ. while doing graduate work and I can't begin to tell you the number of gadgets that we ran through the lab quality dynometers. " Electro Fuel Igniters", "Turbo Swirl Adaptors", "Hot Spark Ignition wires", etc...you name it and we probably ran it. I can say without reservation that when these gadgets affected a change of any kind...it was the wrong way!! Almost without exception when someone came in to the lab with glowing reports of "more power, better fuel consumption", when you got to really check on it, the "more power" was seat of the pants feeling and "better mileage" was one or at most two tanks of fuel. I had to chuckle that most of the time when the "improved widgit" was installed, they did a general tune up as well...probably needed badly. I am not saying that any engine can't be improved on...up the compression=more power, more aggressive cam lift and timing=more power, higher rpm=more power but all of these things have a down side as well. Even the classic improvement of better exhaust systems, which do help, have the down side of higher initial cost and sound..things the engineers have to consider in the original design. Engine design for the consumer market is a sea of compromises between economy, power, parts life, cost and marketing to list a few. The absolute extreme opposite to a compromised approach to engine design is the motors in a AA Fuel Dragster...built to run just a few seconds at wide open throttle, fuel at 40-50 dollars a gallon (or more), blower pressures out of sight and you can get in excess of 7000 horsepower out of a moderate sized V-8! After the run, you have to practically rebuild the engine however..

As I see it, we are blessed to be able to buy such amazing off-the-shelf cars and with the well designed engines that do so much for so long. I am old enough to remember the days when at 50 to 70 thousand miles you had to do a "valve job", and at much over 100 thousand miles you were looking forward to a "engine overhaul". Tune ups at 10 thousand miles without exception to include plugs, points, condenser, valve and timing adjustment . Compare that to the amazing engines we have now and you can see "we have come a long way, baby!" The amazing improvements we see in engines today are due to three major efforts: engineering, materials and oils.

So anyway, there are lots of people out there willing to take your money and promise great things but take your time to look at the claims from a practical standpoint. As much as I like to read forums, I don't put much weight into claims by members of great improvements...who want's to write in and say they were tricked out of their money for nothing?

I know that it's been awhile coming but I finally got my xlr on the D3 Dyno system and the addition of the twin eSuperchargers and the 9th fuel injector produced another 20 h/p giving her a total of 385 h/p verses the stock 320 h/p. The D3 tech did mention that at full throtler, there was a slight low octane ping though I haven't heard it over the Corsa exchaust.
I'm concidering either adjusting the fuel pressure or changing to a V fuel pump.
The less costly and easier thing to do would be to open the jet spray of the 9th fuel injector but that will only work if I can increase the fuel line pressure.
As for performance, I still get 21 mpg around town and 30 mpg on the road as long as I keep my foot out of it! But thats hard to do when you're sitting at a signal and the sport car diver next to you wants to race you to the next light.
Just yesterday, I took the xlr out for it's weekly drive around town and while sitting in traffic on a very heavly conjested 4 lane street, not the freeway, a young lady in a 2004 Chevy Impala pulls up on my right and wants to race me. I just laughed and said "Not in this traffic!"
Anyway, the cost of the twin electric superchargers from e-Racing was about $675.00 and the 9th fuel injector was about $50.00. I choose a "Cold Start Fuel Injector" for a 1978 Corvette. The reason for selecting this particular Injector was its umbrella spray pattern and its 2 bolt mounting.

I'm still trying to get some pictures posted and from what my lady friend tells me it's easy to do with this new Windows 7 OS. We'll see when she has a chance to come over and show me how.

Jack

I know that it's been awhile coming but I finally got my xlr on the D3 Dyno system and the addition of the twin eSuperchargers and the 9th fuel injector produced another 20 h/p giving her a total of 385 h/p verses the stock 320 h/p. The D3 tech did mention that at full throtler, there was a slight low octane ping though I haven't heard it over the Corsa exchaust.
I'm concidering either adjusting the fuel pressure or changing to a V fuel pump.
The less costly and easier thing to do would be to open the jet spray of the 9th fuel injector but that will only work if I can increase the fuel line pressure.
As for performance, I still get 21 mpg around town and 30 mpg on the road as long as I keep my foot out of it! But thats hard to do when you're sitting at a signal and the sport car diver next to you wants to race you to the next light.
Just yesterday, I took the xlr out for it's weekly drive around town and while sitting in traffic on a very heavly conjested 4 lane street, not the freeway, a young lady in a 2004 Chevy Impala pulls up on my right and wants to race me. I just laughed and said "Not in this traffic!"
Anyway, the cost of the twin electric superchargers from e-Racing was about $675.00 and the 9th fuel injector was about $50.00. I choose a "Cold Start Fuel Injector" for a 1978 Corvette. The reason for selecting this particular Injector was its umbrella spray pattern and its 2 bolt mounting.

I'm still trying to get some pictures posted and from what my lady friend tells me it's easy to do with this new Windows 7 OS. We'll see when she has a chance to come over and show me how.

Jack
Jack:

GREAT POST!!

We're looking forward to seeing your pictures.

Regards

Jerry

OK guys....let's get real. Now if you are an engineer in the GM engine department, and could get more horsepower out of an engine and at the same time get better mileage by a simple "chip" or re-program, don't you think you might just go for it? This is the classic "free lunch" or "if it is too good to be true, it probably isn't true" kind of gimmick. [snip]

Umm. I used to be of this opinion too, but have had to take it back, under certain circumstances.

Two examples:

1/ Turbo diesels. There seems to be no escaping it, on some engines you can increase the power output and improve the economy, just tell the ECU to increase the turbo pressure (or keep it over a bigger rev range). There has to be a down-side and there is, a big one. The exhaust valves can be burnt away all too easily, so having exhaust gas temperature monitoring is critical.

2/ Gasoline engines with improved intake and exhaust systems and a suitable chip. Yes, much more power, but improved economy, surely not? Well, it would seem that this too is possible, so where is the downside? I know such a modified car that occasionally I drive. There is no escaping the increased power, it is up by 30% or so. There is a downside though, the throttle response is so aggressive that it becomes tiring to drive. Also, some components are close to being taken out of specification under certain conditions, resulting in fault codes.

However, for both, better economy seems to be possible and that has left me asking 'how is this possible?'. (This has been checked over long distances again and again, using the built-in economy gauge). The conclusion I have had to reach is that the extra power allows selecting taller gears sooner with a modest benefit to economy. Both examples, though, are capable of very much worse economy than they started with, so unless driven very carefully, that is what can be expected.

So, yes, the OEM experts know every trick in the book, but it would seem that some of those tricks sacrifice economy for reliability. If you understand the risks, it is possible to have both more power and the potential for better economy.

A third example:

Years ago I fitted a system that improved the spark power with my points and condenser system (it replaced the points with magnetic and allowed a bigger coil). This worked. Quoting an expert I knew at the time 'you can't beat a good spark' and is one reason why the modern ignition systems have been developed. So, there were perfectly good ways to increase both power and economy, this system cost more money. New emissions standards have forced manufacturers to spend the money on better design and control systems, so things are better than they were, but the vast majority of cars are built to a price. Compromises are made, if you understand the compromise choices, it is possible to adjust the 'standard' fit to one that is closer to your style and thus gain the benefit of doing that.