The duel exhaust on the V has baffels that are designed to close at low speeds to keep the car quiet and open up when the engine opens up for free flow and much better sound.

First you hear the supersharger kick in, and then the pipes open up....sounds awsome!:thumbs

inside shot
(4 tail pipes 1 baffel for each side)

The Z06 has the same thing - if you remove the fuse marked "spare" it keepss them open all the time and its sounds great!

Wow..................Now that's really good news and thanks for the tip. One fuse will be removed when my V comes in.The Z06 has the same thing - if you remove the fuse marked "spare" it keepss them open all the time and its sounds great!

The Z06 has the same thing - if you remove the fuse marked "spare" it keepss them open all the time and its sounds great!

Yes,
I read that in the Corvette forum, but couldn't find which fuse it was...I'll look for the "spare"
thanks

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50368

Here's a link to a guy who has his rigged up so he can manually select the mode i.e., open vs closed.

The Z06 has the same thing - if you remove the fuse marked "spare" it keepss them open all the time and its sounds great!

Can't seem to locate the correct fuse in the V.
"spare" is empty .......Any help appreciated

Michael,
I'm thinking it may be an inline fuse, or they designated another fuse in the fuse block. Suggest the manual under fuses or asking a tech to locate it. He can trace it back to the source with no problem. I'm going to Allen Cadillac today and will ask the tech to locate it on mine when it comes in this week, (I hope)
Bob

Can't seem to locate the correct fuse in the V.
"spare" is empty .......Any help appreciated

Michael,
I'm thinking it may be an inline fuse, or they designated another fuse in the fuse block. Suggest the manual under fuses or asking a tech to locate it. He can trace it back to the source with no problem. I'm going to Allen Cadillac today and will ask the tech to locate it on mine when it comes in this week, (I hope)
Bob
Bob, not today, it`s holiday and closed!
My invtation was for saturday and sunday and it say`s closed on monday.

Hans

Michael,
I'm thinking it may be an inline fuse, or they designated another fuse in the fuse block. Suggest the manual under fuses or asking a tech to locate it. He can trace it back to the source with no problem. I'm going to Allen Cadillac today and will ask the tech to locate it on mine when it comes in this week, (I hope)
Bob

doubtful it would be an in-line fuse. I can't find it in the manuel because I don't know what they actually call it, and I'm also concerned it's a shared fuse with other accessories. I'm sure a service tech can locate.

Your brochure is wrong, Allen is open today, front to back. I'm headed on down to see if I can get an answer to the baffle fuse. See you guys in a bit, hopefully with some info.:cheers

Bob, not today, it`s holiday and closed!
My invtation was for saturday and sunday and it say`s closed on monday.

Hans

Your brochure is wrong, Allen is open today, front to back. I'm headed on down to see if I can get an answer to the baffle fuse. See you guys in a bit, hopefully with some info.:cheers
Realy? But this 8 miles to Laguna Niguel is no big thing and MAYBE they just got in a light plat. V

Hans

Michael,
Bad news........talked to the tech who had trouble with the first V's baffles rattling, so he called Bowling Green and found out there has to be a certain minimum pressure in the vacuum line from the headers to the baffle at the exit of the exhaust to keep them from rattling, usually while idling. There is some sort of set-screw or adjustment that can be made to these line at the headers.
If the vacuum line can be cut and re-worked into an electrical open & close switch installed in the cabin, we could control what we want the baffles to do.
Got any ideas?
Bob



Can't seem to locate the correct fuse in the V.
"spare" is empty .......Any help appreciated

Michael,
Bad news........talked to the tech who had trouble with the first V's baffles rattling, so he called Bowling Green and found out there has to be a certain minimum pressure in the vacuum line from the headers to the baffle at the exit of the exhaust to keep them from rattling, usually while idling. There is some sort of set-screw or adjustment that can be made to these line at the headers.
If the vacuum line can be cut and re-worked into an electrical open & close switch installed in the cabin, we could control what we want the baffles to do.
Got any ideas?
Bob

sure, plug the vacume lines.
with no vacume, they remain open.
I don't need to control them, I just want them to stay open!
If they rattle....take 'em out.

....and if that dosen't do the trick....move on to the Borlas

I just think there's an electrical relay involved at the origin of the vacume line, and a simple fuse pull and/or switch would make this a whole lot easier.
I'll do more research with the Z06 guys. I can't imagine that their system is designed any differently....they must also have vacume lines at the tail pipes, since you can't put electrical components there.......yet they're picking up electrical control.

I think the tec you talked to, while trouble shooting a similar issue, didn't really address what we're after here.

I'm sure we (this site) will get to the bottom of this and figure it out long before the techs do. I'll keep checking around also. Check under your hood and see if you can see this so called vacuum line on the header. He did say header. There should be an adjutment according to the tech, maybe we can kill the damn thing right up front without cutting anything..
Bob:thumbs

sure, plug the vacume lines.
with no vacume, they remain open.
I don't need to control them, I just want them to stay open!
If they rattle....take 'em out.

....and if that dosen't do the trick....move on to the Borlas

I just think there's an electrical relay involved at the origin of the vacume line, and a simple fuse pull and/or switch would make this a whole lot easier.
I'll do more research with the Z06 guys. I can't imagine that their system is designed any differently....they must also have vacume lines at the tail pipes, since you can't put electrical components there.......yet they're picking up electrical control.

I think the tec you talked to, while trouble shooting a similar issue, didn't really address what we're after here.

Bob.....Allen Cadillac tells me that they delivered the first XLR V several days age....Was this to you?......Jack

No Jack,
Actually was over a week ago and the guy that ordered it didn't like the deal he was getting and another person on the list stepped up and bought it. Mine is in route and should be here within the next 7 days.
I'm getting giddy.
Bob
Bob.....Allen Cadillac tells me that they delivered the first XLR V several days age....Was this to you?......Jack

Here is a link where the Z06 guys again mention the fuse they pull to open the baffles. When I get more time I'll do some more searching. I would think the two systems are similar, but who knows these days.

http://www.z06vette.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94223

Here is a link where the Z06 guys again mention the fuse they pull to open the baffles. When I get more time I'll do some more searching. I would think the two systems are similar, but who knows these days.

http://www.z06vette.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94223


:rolleyes hummmm.....not sure if I can tell from the picture which fuse it is


Thanks:thumbs

:rolleyes hummmm.....not sure if I can tell from the picture which fuse it is


Thanks:thumbs

However....
On the V...... that fuse says trunk close/ parking brake selonoid

and sure enough....trunk won't close, but the baffels do!:banghead

Sorry, back to the drawing board..............the two systems have to be somewhat similar, just too expensive in today's world to be otherwise - especially considering the low production numbers.

OK, I found the fuses, yes fuses, there are two of them #25 and #29... one for each side. They call them "power sounders". Not only did they split them up, but #25 also controls review mirror, climate control system, and colum lock. #29 controls the climate control system too!.....Geee thanks GM:crazy
couldn't put them on one of the 9 "not used" fuse slots...... either they wanted to save money on that extra .20 cent fuse, or when your climate control went out they wanted you to hear it.

Soooooo....if you want to install a switch, you'll need to pull the fuse box and dig out the necessary wires, then cut and paste the inline fuse, etc. as mentioned before. If you just want to disconnect them, it may easier to do underneath, but I haven't crawled under yet.
If you just want to check out the sound....pull the 2 fuses and take a run....no harm.

If you like the sound of the Corsa, you'll probably like this, it sounds very similar to what I have heard, only the cabin drown might be too much. I can see why one would want a switch installed.
Sounds better, but I'm not too impressed....Borlas for me:thumbs
No CEL

See, I knew you had some time on your hands. I guess I was talking to the wrong end of the tech. Damn, don't they know anything?
I do want to thank you for your diligence.
Would you verify that your bolt pattern is six instead of five?
Bob
I think it would be easier to find the wires at some other location and just cut em and switch em in the cabin.OK, I found the fuses, yes fuses, there are two of them #25 and #29... one for each side. They call them "power sounders". Not only did they split them up, but #25 also controls review mirror, climate control system, and colum lock. #29 controls the climate control system too!.....Geee thanks GM:crazy
couldn't put them on one of the 9 "not used" fuse slots...... either they wanted to save money on that extra .20 cent fuse, or when your climate control went out they wanted you to hear it.

Soooooo....if you want to install a switch, you'll need to pull the fuse box and dig out the necessary wires, then cut and paste the inline fuse, etc. as mentioned before. If you just want to disconnect them, it may easier to do underneath, but I haven't crawled under yet.
If you just want to check out the sound....pull the 2 fuses and take a run....no harm.

If you like the sound of the Corsa, you'll probably like this, it sounds very similar to what I have heard, only the cabin drown might be too much. I can see why one would want a switch installed.
Sounds better, but I'm not too impressed....Borlas for me:thumbs
No CEL

I did read several posts from Z06 owners that found the cabin drone uncomfortable with the baffles open all the time, which makes sense.

Companies that build exhaust systems such as Borla spend quite a bit of R/D time trying to maximize tone and power while downplaying the dreaded cabin drone.

But, GM was concerned with freeing up the flow and adding power for those intermittent full throttle blasts - hence no real thought into how much drone it would cause since it would only be short bursts.

Afterall, who would want to defeat such a neat feature???? Ah, duh, every owner! Which is probably why they wired them into the same fuse that powers several necessary features - hoping you would leave well-enough alone.

I'm guessing the engineers are still a bit disconnected from their audience.

On a side note, Ford will be using a different pulley on the blowers for the new GT500 power plant. It will be next to impossible to remove it and they also added a sensor near the lower crank pulley that makes it almost impossible to change it to a different pulley. I guess they learned their lesson when they discovered how many 03 and up Cobra owners (not to mention the Lightning owners) had swapped the pulleys to increase boost.

I would be curious to see how many ponies could be pulled out of the XLR-V's 4.4 with a pulley swap and some tuning adjustments. Properly done, I bet 50-60 extra horses would not be a stretch, coupled with an increase in air intake.

Ford Cobra and Lightning owners have been achieving numbers better than that for years.

It looks like it might be easier to do surgery on the baffles themselves. Maybe either completely remove them or make openings in the baffle to achieve the desired sound.:flag

I did read several posts from Z06 owners that found the cabin drone uncomfortable with the baffles open all the time, which makes sense.

Companies that build exhaust systems such as Borla spend quite a bit of R/D time trying to maximize tone and power while downplaying the dreaded cabin drone.

But, GM was concerned with freeing up the flow and adding power for those intermittent full throttle blasts - hence no real thought into how much drone it would cause since it would only be short bursts.

Afterall, who would want to defeat such a neat feature???? Ah, duh, every owner! Which is probably why they wired them into the same fuse that powers several necessary features - hoping you would leave well-enough alone.

I'm guessing the engineers are still a bit disconnected from their audience.

.

after further testing, I can see why GM intentionally made this difficult. While it sounds OK with the RPMs up, as they intended, at cruising speeds the drone is ridiculous for a car like this. (hey, if even those low life Vette guys can't handle it.....;) ) A switch could be done, but it's not an option for me, I mean, what's the point?? They wanted a quiet car and did a good job at that. Those that want to hear it will need to go aftermarket, this is not the solution, IMO.

I would be curious to see how many ponies could be pulled out of the XLR-V's 4.4 with a pulley swap and some tuning adjustments. Properly done, I bet 50-60 extra horses would not be a stretch, coupled with an increase in air intake.

.

A pully swap may be easy, but when you say tuning adjustments, that's all computer related?
Is it realistic to think the computer info would ever be available to programers/ tuners?

I believe the computer should be able to pull enough timing on its own to compensate for a small increase, and with the growing demand for applications associated with hand-held tuners we might see something soon. The codes required for pulling timing and manipulating air/fuel ratios is not that big a secret. There are tons of custom programs already available for the LS2 C6 motors and programmers are hard at work on tunes for the LS7.

It would be worth a call to Diablo or one of the other custom tune companies to see what they have in store for the "V" motors.

I believe the computer should be able to pull enough timing on its own to compensate for a small increase, and with the growing demand for applications associated with hand-held tuners we might see something soon. The codes required for pulling timing and manipulating air/fuel ratios is not that big a secret. There are tons of custom programs already available for the LS2 C6 motors and programmers are hard at work on tunes for the LS7.

It would be worth a call to Diablo or one of the other custom tune companies to see what they have in store for the "V" motors.


Same story as before with the XLR.
The LS2 and LS7 there's a market for it.....lots more built and lots of speed demons.
The V at 800 or so a year and a fraction of owners that will touch it, nobody will spend the R&D money.

..........but 500 HP sure sounds sweet!

If you count both the STS-V and the XLR-V and throw in the fact GM has already increased the projected build numbers twice before producing even one of them, there may be more interest than you think. And there will be continued production, so you never know. Like I said, the computers are pretty adaptive on their own, I'm willing to wager someone will pioneer the way!

Okay, I found a solution to the problem. Check this link..........


http://www.shoplaser.com/index.html


Now that is hot!!!!!

Okay, I found a solution to the problem. Check this link..........


http://www.shoplaser.com/index.html


Now that is hot!!!!!


Post the pics when you get them on you vet!

Bling-bling baby!!

Seems to me I heard somewhere they will not fit the Vette, just the "V"............darn.

Hook up a pair to the exhaust tip that has the bafle upstream! My God, you could almost get air-born with that kind of action going on.

So i was curious, what is the final decision on how to make the xlr-v exhaust baffles stay open all the time?

So i was curious, what is the final decision on how to make the xlr-v exhaust baffles stay open all the time?

My final decision was not to do it, the drone at cruising speed was terrible.
I intend to install my Borla cat-backs.

If one wanted to do it, you would need to find the coresponding wires behind fuse #25 and #29 to disconnect and splice in a switch, or disconnect the wires under the car at the vacume relay.

I would check out the sound first though by just pulling the two fuses.

So when you pull those two fuses those ultimately control your climate control so therefore they will not work when you do this?

When you pull the fuses wont the exhaust baffels be closed? How do you get them to stay open?

So when you pull those two fuses those ultimately control your climate control so therefore they will not work when you do this?

When you pull the fuses wont the exhaust baffels be closed? How do you get them to stay open?

when you pull the fuses the climate control and a few other things won't work.
the baffels will remain in the open position.

ok just checking i appreciate your help!

so you can simply pull the fuses why the car is on? climate control will not work and then i can simply put the two fuses back in and everything will start working again?

xlrregistry,
I've had Cadillac look into interrupting the wires that go in the back of the fuse block at an easier location and then running them up to a rocker switch on the dash/under or on the console using a Cadillac rocker switch like the other two on the console. They checked with Bowling Green and there was no problem with the warranty. They just didn't have time to do it while my car was there for 8 days waiting for rims that never came. I haven't found any rims I like that are being made for the XLR-V.
There's a nice rumble when you back off with the fuses pulled and going through parking lots it really sounds cool while locked in second gear. Don't really know if I would like the noise out on the freeway.
I'm going to get it done when I have a few minutes and will let you all know what it takes to do it.:cheers
Bobok just checking i appreciate your help!

so you can simply pull the fuses why the car is on? climate control will not work and then i can simply put the two fuses back in and everything will start working again?

ok just checking i appreciate your help!

so you can simply pull the fuses why the car is on? climate control will not work and then i can simply put the two fuses back in and everything will start working again?


suggest you pull the fuses with the car off. drive it that way for a day or two and decide if you like the sound. Everything will work fine when you put them back in.

if you do this i would love to see pictures, or does anybody here have pictures of somebody else who has done it already?

http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/8/8_9_23.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZS) Do you work at the plant? I took the tour last summer and was very impressed with tour guides that brought me over to see the XLR's that where being made. It seems the tour is more about the Corvette than the XLR, but they had every answer to every question.
I'm going to do this but I have to find some place that is really good at electronics. I don't want a hack doing it. I also think that I will hide the switch under the dash so I don't ruin the esthetic's. When I find out where they will intercept the wire, I will make a note of this location and post it.
Bob


if you do this i would love to see pictures, or does anybody here have pictures of somebody else who has done it already?





http://www.smileycentral.com/sig.jsp?pc=ZSzeb068&pp=ZS (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb068_ZS)

I guess I have to answer my own post.........................It seems there is no one to take responsibility to cut a few wires and put a switch under the dash. They all agree that the computer might start kicking out codes and then GM will not warranty the car. I guess I can live without it.
Bob http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/36/36_1_10.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZS)


http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/8/8_9_23.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZS) Do you work at the plant? I took the tour last summer and was very impressed with tour guides that brought me over to see the XLR's that where being made. It seems the tour is more about the Corvette than the XLR, but they had every answer to every question.
I'm going to do this but I have to find some place that is really good at electronics. I don't want a hack doing it. I also think that I will hide the switch under the dash so I don't ruin the esthetic's. When I find out where they will intercept the wire, I will make a note of this location and post it.
Bob








http://www.smileycentral.com/sig.jsp?pc=ZSzeb068&pp=ZS (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb068_ZS)

I understand that in modern cars its more than voltage flowing through most wires. Change the resistance and you can mess up the system. At some point I would think the wire you're looking for reaches a point where it is connecting to the final electrical link in the line. If I read the posts correctly at some point it goes from an electrical curcuit to a vacuum switch. Right at that point unplug the wires. From GM order two electrical connectors. What I'm saying is at this point (I hope it would only be 1-4 wires at this point) unplug the connector, buy the connector so you can plug into the feed and then into the vacuum switch. Make a harness so you have an extension cord of maybe a foot or two. Just like an extension cord at home. Now plug this in and see if everything works without codes. If so you then cut the one power wire on your extension and tie in a toggle switch. If it works you are all set if not you under plug your extension and plug the two halfs together as they were from the factory and you are back to sqaure one.

Bill,
You need to buy a V so you can do some R&D on this subject, quite frankly I'm scared to mess with it at this point.
Bob

I understand that in modern cars its more than voltage flowing through most wires. Change the resistance and you can mess up the system. At some point I would think the wire you're looking for reaches a point where it is connecting to the final electrical link in the line. If I read the posts correctly at some point it goes from an electrical curcuit to a vacuum switch. Right at that point unplug the wires. From GM order two electrical connectors. What I'm saying is at this point (I hope it would only be 1-4 wires at this point) unplug the connector, buy the connector so you can plug into the feed and then into the vacuum switch. Make a harness so you have an extension cord of maybe a foot or two. Just like an extension cord at home. Now plug this in and see if everything works without codes. If so you then cut the one power wire on your extension and tie in a toggle switch. If it works you are all set if not you under plug your extension and plug the two halfs together as they were from the factory and you are back to sqaure one.

The Corvette guys are doing switches or no fuses and don't seem to be having a problem. I would think if it were going to throw out codes it would do so right away, that's why I ran it for a few days to make sure the CEL didn't light up. You can't blame the dealer for not wanting to take responsibility though. I'm not doing a switch because I don't like the sound, but I intend to yank the whole system and install my Borla cat-backs. Again, the Vette guys have changed out their systems as well.

In theory the system sounds like a good compromise between a stock, limited flowing exhaust and a full-blown cat-back replacement system.

In reality, it does accomplish the requirement to minimize back pressure at full throttle, however it was not designed to deliver a realy good sound in the process.

And running it open all the time really isn't working, hense the large number of Corvette guys who are opting to replace the system all together.

Yes, I posted a thread of pics of the module in the trunk, (see post)......Today I cut the red wire and ran it up into the center console glove box. Took the black fiber glass cover off with a screw driver under the lip in the back of the box, drilled a hole in the left side corner of this cover and mounted a small toggle switch, and snapped it back in. I probably wont use this feature a lot, but it's there for places like Bob's Big Boy in Burbank on a Friday night or a parking structure at a car show. The thing is......................I now have a choice. Anyone need pics I'll take some.:cheers
Bobif you do this i would love to see pictures, or does anybody here have pictures of somebody else who has done it already?

Yes, I posted a thread of pics of the module in the trunk, (see post)......Today I cut the red wire and ran it up into the center console glove box. Took the black fiber glass cover off with a screw driver under the lip in the back of the box, drilled a hole in the left side corner of this cover and mounted a small toggle switch, and snapped it back in. I probably wont use this feature a lot, but it's there for places like Bob's Big Boy in Burbank on a Friday night or a parking struture at a car show. The thing is......................I now have a choice. Anyone need pics I'll take some.:cheers
Bob

Way to go Bob, someone finally has the cajuenes to do it.
XLR1 Borla? I had them on my Mustang and the drone was not fun. I want more sound but not at the expense of the drone.

XLR1 Borla? I had them on my Mustang and the drone was not fun. I want more sound but not at the expense of the drone.

Borla made their prototype on my 04 XLR and the sound was awsome, deeper than the Corsas, and the drone was very minimal.
I installed them on my V last night and the sound is even better! I'd have to say the drone at times is probably up a notch too, but nothing objectionable.

Everything matched up exactly the same as the XLR with the exception of the center hanger requiring some extension. You must drop the rear sway bar to get the stock mufflers out. I unpluged the vacume lines at the tail pipes and there was nothing else to deal with concerning the baffels. Other than that, the install was identical to the XLR. ......and now my V sounds incredible!:thumbs

Borla made their prototype on my 04 XLR and the sound was awsome, deeper than the Corsas, and the drone was very minimal.
I installed them on my V last night and the sound is even better! I'd have to say the drone at times is probably up a notch too, but nothing objectionable.

Everything matched up exactly the same as the XLR with the exception of the center hanger requiring some extension. You must drop the rear sway bar to get the stock mufflers out. I unpluged the vacume lines at the tail pipes and there was nothing else to deal with concerning the baffels. Other than that, the install was identical to the XLR. ......and now my V sounds incredible!:thumbs
Hi 1_XLR, as I read, it`s the Borla you`ve had on your XLR. Does it fit the V exactly or you had to made some changes?
I only ask if I might buy a V I would put my Corsa on too.

Thanks
Harry

Hi 1_XLR, as I read, it`s the Borla you`ve had on your XLR. Does it fit the V exactly or you had to made some changes?
I only ask if I might buy a V I would put my Corsa on too.

Thanks
Harry

Yes Harry, same Borla that was on my "04, Borla never produced any more specifically for the XLR.
Everthing matched up except the center hanger, which was easy to adjust for with extended springs.
The XLR Corsa will fit the same.

Yes Harry, same Borla that was on my "04, Borla never produced any more specifically for the XLR.
Everthing matched up except the center hanger, which was easy to adjust for with extended springs.
The XLR Corsa will fit the same.
Thank you, it`s good to hear so I will not have to buy a new system.

Harry